I just purchased a 2008 Suburban LT series,4X4,5.3L/3.73 gear.
I will be pulling a 2008 Jayco Jayflight G2 29BHS.
The weights on the trailer are:
Unloaded Vehicle Weight: 5,400(lbs.)
Dry Hitch Weight: 800(lbs.)
Gross Vehicle Weight: 7,500(lbs.)
Cargo Carrying Capacity: 2,100(lbs.)
I have and will be using the Blue Ox SwayPro system Info on Blue Ox system
My Suburban on the rear bumper by the hitch it says:
Weight Carrying Maximum: 5,000(lbs)
Weight Distributing Maximum: 10,000(lbs)
Correct me if im wrong, but I should be fine pulling this trailer, correct??? I will be using a distribution system (Blue Ox Sway Pro system) so I would be using the Weight Distributing Maximum number??? Ive been reading about the newer Tahoes having problems with hitch issues and too short of wheel base, but the Suburban is longer... Please help clear this up... Thanks in advance!
I've been towing for 30 years, and give you 2 thumbs up for your great research. BlueOx makes one of the best, and you have the equivelent of a full size pickup truck, and that 5.3L engine is sweet with over 300 hp. In addition, Jayco's are known for their great tracking and towing without drama. We've had 7 Jayco's so far, with no issues.
We pulled a 6000 lb (wet) TT with an 04 'Burb for 2 seasons. From my experience:
You will exceed the Rear Axle rating and/or the GVWR long before you get anywhere near a 'max tow' rating. This probably holds true for most 1/2 tons. After several passes over scales, I confirmed that I was always with 20 - 30 lbs of exceeding GVWR, but not over it.
With a good hitch set up (we had an equal-i-zer) and enough tongue weight, the trailer behaved itself and did not sway. (I had to keep some water in the fresh tank to have enough tongue weight).
I could not maintain highway speed in "D" without the 'Burb shifting frequently. I selected "3" and watched the gas gauge drop ( 8 to 9 MPG).
I would rate the towing experience as OK, but I always felt like I was going to send our ‘Burb to an early grave.
Items I would consider if I was still using it as our tow vehicle:
1) Install transmission temp gauge. (I didn’t have one so I changes the fluid every season)
2) I would have changed out the piece of junk OEM hitch (not sure if you have that issue on the newer models).
3) I would have probably changed the gears to 4.1.
Take your rig to the scales to understand your weights. Learn how to properly set up your hitch and keep it that way. Stay away from Mountains and even large hills if you can. Drive slow, drive carefully, and you will probably be ok.
* This post was
edited 01/06/09 09:18pm by an administrator/moderator *
Yes Ive done ALOT of research on my vehicle purchase and my trailer purchase. Now im doing the combination (Tow vehicle/trailer) research. I actually used my 2000 E150 conversion van for my tow vehicle last year, it did ok but needed a bit more HP. Im in the Midwest so not alot of mountains out here, which helped. I love the trailer, it tracked behind the van just fine!
Thanks for the info Humpty.
1. I do have a Trans temp gauge. Now another question, what is the max trans temp and/or a good operating trans temp range while pulling a trailer?
2. The OEM hitch, I dont know about really, Ive been hearing good/bad about the Tahoes which are they the same??? Im not sure... That was another question I had...
3. The gears I will wait to see what this does first im thinking...
There is a neat little chart floating around on this forum that shows low heat equals long mileage.
185 degrees = 100,000 miles
220 = 50,000
240 = 25,000
260 = 15,000
295 = 5,000
315 = 2,000
My current TV never goes over 200 degrees.
As for the hitch, My 2004 model has the one that is mentioned a good bit here and other sites as being very weak / poor welds / etc. Many are replacing it with a Putnam brand. Do a little searching and you will quickly find tons of info. I have no idea about the 2008's. Maybe the general changed it.
Gears - Yea, I'd wait too. That's too much $$ to do on a whim.
'08 'burb does not have the hitch problems of the prior year's round tube reciever.
'08 'burb cannot have the receiver changed.
TOngue weight is limited to 1,000 pounds, which doesn't matter much on the 1500 because there's not enough RAWR anyways for that much tongue weight.
Bryan
2000 Ford E350 DRW Wagon (14-pass all captains chairs)
V10 w/ Banks PowerPack, Diablo Predator, 4.56 LS, 250,000+ miles
Had: Weekend Warrior 41' FSW
T_S_L wrote: Thanks carringb for the info, glad to hear no hitch problems... What do you mean by RAWR? Thanks
Rear Axle Weight Rating and should be on the driver's side door jamb. I think you will have a challenge keeping your tongue wt. which is limited to 1,000 lbs and or your RAWR within limits along possibly with your GVWR and GCWR with the 3.73 and a dry tongue wt. of 800 lbs. The minute you add a battery and fill the propane cylinders you will probably be over 900lbs and that's on a completely empty trailer. It looks like you have a front pass thru storage compartment and it appears the some of the kitchen cabinets, refer, etc. are all forward of the axles along with the two shirt wardrobes and storage including under the front queen bed being all the way forward.
I think you will be overweight, the newer 07 and up body sytles have a reduced towing capacity, i believe you suburban is only rated for 7000lbs with the 3.73 and 4x4, if you can get the rear end swapped out to a 4:10 that will gain you 1000lbs in towing capacity. I had a 2001 suburban with 5.3 4x2 and 3:73 and pulled a 6000lb trailer fully loaded and it was about all the suburban could handle, especially on any type of hill it would hunt for gears, I don't think you will be happy with the towing expiernce, i just repalced the suburban with a 5.7 tundra crewmax but i have yet to tow with it.
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