My calculations turn out right is something I could say but that would be a fib...my calculating eye said it would work and my brain said...you gotta try it! SO I DID! IT worked! What I am talking about in installing one inch thick polyethlene foam board inot the wire compartment on the side of my 1161 Lance. I figured it may work as the space goes up beyond the hole for a toal hieght od 14"...when i use it i hardly push the wire up to get it all in...so if I used all the space, I should be able to get insulation in there and still be able to get the wire coiled back in. Yes it took two attempts to get it to work out just right, but now that it is done...it will be a breeze next time. (Also the wire is very stiff from being cold)
Anothe thing I did you will notice in the pics is that i installed two thumb locks on the door so when the wire is strung out the door is closed better as they jhave a tendancy to warp under the pressure.
The foam is one inch thick, water proof and very light plus being strong and abrasive resistant. Perfect for this invironment.
I have also started the process of insulating the dump compartment. Same foam board, probably going to secure it to the door when the weather gets warmer so the adhesive will work. May need to use a few ss thin long bolts with fender washers to keep it in place. This foam works really well with wood tools, and a very sharp thin blade knife. Make two passes when cutting by hand on a very hard surface and clamped down using a straight edge. Just some hints!
Onward to find other places to use this stuff. Capt PJ
2005 Lance 1161 2004 Dodge CTD 3500 Dually 2009 Raider 185 Pro Fish 90hp Yamaha
Wow pjay9, thats a clever simple idea..I like it
Our camper has 3 tin boxes, battery, bottle & the chord, all behind (in) the areas behind cabinets.
If you open door under sink its like temp.outside. The battery box I have acces to inside under sink think Id warp on camper side (not enough room inside box). But foam inside the chord and bottle boxes which I dont have access would be easy. Thanks!
Ooo, I just had a thought,ouch, Using that expanding insulating foam on the camper side of the battery box... but I have some old blue sleeping bag pads and contact cement, think Ill do that to the chord box-gotta help...
Ive broken silly single latched door from the chord pressure,
Just hope I dont get taxed on "improvments"
Curious what you do in the dump compartment. Ours the air leads to the uninsulated areas behind shower & bath sink.
but I have some old blue sleeping bag pads and contact cement
Try doing a pressure fit first with side holding up the top and soon. Only glue what needs to be glued. CApt PJ
Oh yea most pieces will be small in the cord box, I dont know if I even need glue, maybe a dab in middle of back section.
However on the pressure test...done. When I pulled all the cord out...the bottom of box is pulled away bout 3". Im removeing back panle of cabinet an i can acess, re stapel then recaulk the box.....
raley ever pull that much cord out, dont know how long its been like this. With cord door open, all chord out, looking thru back of cabinet from inside camper__ I can see daylight.....I can here the birds,
Wow this insulation tip is REALLY goinog to make a difference
Once i got the bottom out of the wardrobe, had to destroy it as it was sandwiched on one side. The top of the propane bin was exposed and felt damp with what little moisture was in the camper condensing on it. The cold radiating was really noticable as well. Upon close inspection I found the side could be insulated from the top down to the structural cross member and the top was easy. The back was going to be a real issue as between the back of the bin and the inside wall there is about one inch plus filled with wire runs at all angles. Tried to collect the wires together but was not able as they surely didn't use an abundance of wire. So I had to force some 1/2inch foam down and up form the little lower closet. While doing that I found the botton support members for the slider tray bolted thru and a gaping hole that runs to the outside wall. In the bottom of the bin is a breather hole the comes out on the outside of the camper under the wing. Thusly this whole bin is subject to ambient air temp.
Getting insulation in there would be a real struggle, but blocking it off with a good thick piece of insulation thusly sealing the under well and make it a trapped air chamber, which has some R-value over an open chamber.
Inside the little closet you saw the metal backing which is now insulated. It ws cold as the outside to the touch. Also inside was the duct run for the tank compartment, I took two sharp bends out and smoothed it into a flowing open curve. Also buy doing that I was able to feed about 8" of duct into the dump compartment...will need to see if I can make it shorter or route it better.
From the little closet I was able to completely insulate the opening that exposes the bottom of the propane bin. In the pics below you will see the inside of the bin and blue going down half way. The back with the dark foam insulation going where I could get it, it is hard working with your head inside the opening and pushing foam up blind. Any insulation is better than none. For the bottom half of the bin I was thinking of drilling a small hole and expandofoaming the cavity on each side and maybe the bottom..have to ponder that!
The black tape is temporary holding the wire for my temp probe dropping out the bin hole to the outside.
Underside of propane bin form little cubby
Inside wardrobe side insulation is bubble wrap with mylar face on in the fame cavity...could have put3/4 inch insulation there at the factory!!!
Use the old soap trick to slide the 1" blue down into the gap
Botton of bin and air tube supports each side for tank tray
See blue half way down
See dark foam at back
Bottm of bin from inside now insulated and sealed off.
No more tumble of cold air to circulate with convection currents, sucking all the heat out...good closed off air cavity.
Used no glues or adhesives it is all pressure fit and it is stiff stuff but flexible and light.
Hope this gives some help and pointers! Capt PJ
PS had to keep editing this as some pics didn't go thru anf now they are all there...hooray!
* This post was
edited 01/11/09 09:27pm by pjay9 *
i had some white foam scraps from packing material around desks for christmas gift about 1/2 inch thick put a stripped solid piece of copper wire through taped the whole thing the wire is too pull the plug out, use it in compartment where shore power wire comes out i only put it in when boondocking or going down the road, made a big difference just something easy for those of us untalented types
2005 Dodge 3500 CTD DRW Crew Cab 4x4 6 speed, 2007 Winter Creek TC Rancho shocks,Firestone Air Bags, One Extra Leaf Spring on Rear.
I have discovered another area that needs some attention, which I think was mentioned in another thread. The area behind the stove where the water line comes in to fill the tank. Just looking thru the gap I can see that it is uninsulated and the wall fitting could use some insulation sort of like the outside shower cabinet. Also the space back there is empty and full of sawdust...why can't they vacuum when building these rigs. It apperas that an ouitside door could be fitted and a nice sized storage compartment could be installed to hold water fitting, filter or what have you. It may even be the size to accomdate on the premade boat bins with a gasketed door and lock. We will have to see! :>) Capt PJ
Also insulated the inside back of the outside shower well which is under the bath sink. All pressure fit...as you can see a little gap has opened and I'll be shaving down that piece to fit better and not be so bent when under compression.
Note the thin insulation between the cold and hot pipes, no sink there anymore.