I havent had time yet to really get into it, but I will try in the morning..
This is what I know so far...
Although the batteries die faster with the furnace running, I have noticed that even the flourescent lighting on, the generator starting batteries will drain...
When the batteries get run down, the battery monitor inside the cabin above the frige reads low battery, and the generator wont turn over...(there are 3 Brand New Marine Deep Cycle batteries mounted in the generator box...)
There is a momentary on switch on the dash. (with a picture of a battery on it, and it looks worn, like it was used alot) When I push it, the cabin lights get brighter... So I tried having someone push this switch while at the same time I pushed the starter button on the generator. This allows the generator starter to spin rapidly, and start...
I have noticed that after using the switch on the dash to "jump start" the Generator, The Generator will re-charge its starting batteries, (because after a few minutes, I can shut the generator off, and re-start it without issue..)
However even with the generator running, the monitor inside the cabin (Above the refrigerator) will not show a charging condition....(only when the RV engine is running will the inside monitor show charging)
Also when the cabin monitor above the frige shows low batteries, and the generator will not spin, I am able to start the engine on the RV with no problem. With the RV engine running, the cabin monitor above the frige will now show that the the batteries being monitored are charging..
I dont know which group of batteries are being monitored by the cabin monitor though... I will assume that There is an isolator somewhere that will allow the alternator on the RV engine to charge the cabin monitored batteries and prevent current drain to the starting battery. (the starting battery is monitored by a seperate guage on the dash)
So far I have located 2 battery groups... one single battery up front near the RV engine, (I assume for starting), and one group of 3 on the generator.
I have noticed something in the rear compartment next to the Charger / inverter that may be part of the problem:
If I look in the rear compartment of the RV, where the Charger / inverter is located, I can see that there was a battery or maybe batteries... next to the inverter at one time because there are battery cables just dangling that are routed to and look like they were connected to the group of 3 on the generator at one time... The cables are very thick (look like#2) and in good condition, and just sitting there with both ends taped up, and not connected to anything...
I just purchased this RV, and I am starting to think that maybe the dealers mechanic removed this rear battery because if I look at the pictures of the RV on the internet, The 3 batteries in the picture are older, and therfore I know that he replaced them because all 3 are spanking new now...
I think there is reason to believe that the Charger / Inverter may not even be attached to the generator batteries.... It is possible that he didnt make this connection when he replaced these batteries...
I'm glad you found it. You made had acquired and provided some good information. But you found the problem and posted it before I saw it.
I'll make some comments on things you said.
Your dash switch should cause a relay to pull in connecting the house batteries (the ones by your generator) and the chassis battery for Emergency Start. That relay (sometimes called a solenoid) should be near the chassis battery with the heavy positive chassis battery going to one large terminal, and a similar size cable from the house batteries going to the other large terminal. The small terminals are for control of the relay.
When the engine is running, that relay should engage so the alternator charges the house batteries. And that relay is called the battery isolator - one relay usually is used to do both isolation and emergency starting.
The wiring in the compartment where the converter is located was possibly used for a large inverter (changes the 12 volts DC to 120 volts AC for TV's, kitchen appliances, etc.) or inverter/charger. (It is not good to install batteries and electronics in the same area - the gasses from the batteries are corrosive to the electronics.) If it was an inverter/charger, there may be an AC power cable in that area, too. If it was an inverter/charger, they may have just left the converter installed and unplugged the AC power to it. They removed the inverter/charger before selling it, and didn't recheck that it was working correctly.
If you didn't get manuals for the appliances with the RV, find the make and model information on them as many of the manuals are available online.
I do have a ton of manuals and records.. the original owner documented everything.. including hand written instructions on how to operate a few things... they are in a large file box, and categorized...
Although it is an older coach(1992 Safari Kenya), It seems to be very well maintained. It only has 40,000 miles on it and there is hardly a screw hole in the wall that shouldnt be there. The cabintery appears to be solid maple and is in perfect condition...
a new onan 6.6 generator delivers enough electric power for all the appliances, including a washer / drywe, and both AC units.. The 454 delivers plenty of power, with the banks powerpack, and there are a few suspension upgrades as well..
You seem to know alot about these coaches, and this is my first.
If you dont mind, I would like to ask you a few questions please.
1. There is an air compressor on the underside of the coach that has lines leading to a set of airbags and the electrical connection has been disconnected, but there is also an air fitting mounted on a fender...... Should I check for and maintain a certain pressure in the rear airbags, or is this supposed to be an automatic system..
2. There are 2 air fittings in the front of the Coach that lead to airbags on the front suspension... how much airpressure should be maintained ?
3. I am in the process of Replacing the suburban Hot water heater... it looks like someone installed a manual shut off valve on the inlet side of the heater.. shoud I reinstall it with the new heater, and when would I need to use other than if I had a leak in the water heater?
4. I noticed at many of the races, people sit on thier roofs to watch.... is it safe for the roof? and are there railings that I can buy to make it safer for the people up there?
Much of my "knowledge" is from the various manufacturers and other credible sources that have printed or put their info on the Internet. And much of that is from other forum members' posts. But your MH is a couple of years newer than mine, so a lot of what I have for it also fits yours.
I'm a little tardy on the reply, but my links didn't work and both websites listed below have been redone since my last visit. (That's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it.)
Your airbags are probably Firestone Ride-Rite's: Ride-Rite Air Helper Springs. You can "wander around" that site and learn more about them. The rear springs for your '92 Chevy motorhome are probably an earlier version of these:2080 Kit. In the Air Accessory Kits, you can see different kits that they have for control of the compressor. At the end of the Installation Manual, they have information on adjusting the pressure and recommended minimum and maximum pressure. Basically, they are used to get the motorhome level under varying rear axle loads.
When the front airbags fail, they are often replaced with these: Air Lift. They are available from a number of online sources.
The front airbags are an integral part of the front suspension, and need to be at the correct pressure as they affect the alignment, and hence, the ride and handling.
From the Chevrolet motor home chassis service guide:
"Inflation pressures should be maintained at 10 psi minimum to avoid chafing.
Under load, 40-50 psi is recommended for a 4,300-lb. suspension, 50 psi for a 5,000-lb. suspension, 80-90 psi is recommended for the 5,500-lb. suspension."
You can also do measurements of the suspension components to determine that they are properly inflated; and they need to be properly inflated if you have a front end alignment done.
There also higher rated springs that can by used to replace the existing springs and the airbags, but they are more expensive than the bags.
I hope that helps.
In the future, I recommend that you start a new topic when you make a major topic change. In this case, I know there are members that have some experience with the airbags. If you do a Search on airbags or air bags, you'll find a ton of posts in Tech Issues and Class A, too.