A while back I popped in to ask about adding a solar panel for our TC. After calculating our power needs and allowing a fudge factor, I decided on a 135W solar panel. I selected a 20A charge controller (non-MPPT) which will be able to handle an additional panel or two.
The 2nd week of January, we hit the road and spent a week dry camping south of Quartzsite. In brief, I am very happy with the solar panel's performance so far! We actually did our best to indulge our power appetites to stress test the system -- watching DVDs and playing games on the computer, running all the lights we wanted, running the furnace and vent fans, etc. The battery never got low enough for me to even notice, let alone worry.
I fabricated my own mount for the panel, using aluminum angle and some cheap hardware-store hinges. The mount allows the panel to tilt in four directions, and it's easily accessed via the overcab escape hatch. While in Q I had the panel tilted to catch the sun, which I feel made a significant difference in power delivery (about 20% more, according to my questionable math skills).
I also replaced my TC's Magnetek power converter with a good 3-stage converter, expecting that sooner or later I'd need to run the generator to recharge, and wanting to get the most out of the genny time. As it turned out, we didn't run the generator at all. Still, I'm happy to have the option.
Here's my setup. The ability to tilt four directions would be nice (got any photos of the mount?). I can only tilt two directions but would like to tilt all four directions. But I could get into problems with the panels shading each other.
Bill & Pam, Somewhere, USA
South Dakota domicile
2007 Monaco Diplomat 40 SKQ
2005 Chevy Colorado TOAD w/M&G Brake system
2006 Honda Rancher ATV
Good to hear it worked out so well for you. I also added solar panels before going to Q and never had to run the genny. It did help that we had a couple of warm nights and didn't have the heater come on.
uScott, I'd sure be interested in any photos you might have of your installation (four way tilt would be great). I'd also be most interested in knowing which panels and controller you ended up getting.
Alfred
2005 Sightseer with Workhorse, ReadyBrute Elite towing 2003 Honda CRV
Map below shows states where we actually camped.....
the only commeent I would like to give is 1--don't use too small a size of wire at least an 8 stranded 2--I would go to a minimum 30 amp controller 3 --install the controller with a max distance of 3'-4' from the batteries.
2006 Scepter
2008 24' Haulmark EDGE
2008 Grand Vitara
My best friend DW
1 fur ball Max (AKA - PITA)
And enough solar power so I never have to start the Gen Set
RicJones wrote: Good to hear it worked out so well for you. I also added solar panels before going to Q and never had to run the genny. It did help that we had a couple of warm nights and didn't have the heater come on.
Me too..
I added panel #4 at Q
But look at what was across the road: 900W on motorized lifts, the front right panel is actually a solar water heater! Then there's the off-air TV antenna with attached Wx Stn, and low-band antenna on the other side.
Quote: 900W on motorized lifts, the front right panel is actually a solar water heater! Then there's the off-air TV antenna with attached Wx Stn, and low-band antenna on the other side.
I think I saw him, was he at Road Runner with the hams?
Quote: 900W on motorized lifts, the front right panel is actually a solar water heater! Then there's the off-air TV antenna with attached Wx Stn, and low-band antenna on the other side.
I think I saw him, was he at Road Runner with the hams?
Alfred622 wrote: uScott, I'd sure be interested in any photos you might have of your installation (four way tilt would be great). I'd also be most interested in knowing which panels and controller you ended up getting.
Went with a Kyocera 130W panel and a Morningstar Sunsaver 20 controller. I know that MPPT is the way to really wring the power out of your panels, but I just did not have the cash to do it this time.
The panel mounts are made from ordinary hardware-store stuff. The design is actually inspired by someone else who posted here (or maybe on another forum), and cuss me if I can remember who. Anyway, credit for the design is not mine.
With six attach points I didn't feel the need to make a separate set of mounting rails, so the panel sits on its own frame. The center brackets also allow a much wider range of north-south tilt without needing long prop rods, although if the wind picked up I'd start to get nervous about leaving it up.
I didn't get a shot of the prop rods, they're just aluminum angle with appropriate holes drilled, and studs on one end to attach to the hinges. If tomorrow's weather isn't foul I'll put the panel up and get some snaps of that too.
flhtci-rider wrote: the only commeent I would like to give is 1--don't use too small a size of wire at least an 8 stranded 2--I would go to a minimum 30 amp controller 3 --install the controller with a max distance of 3'-4' from the batteries.
That's well-founded advice, however....
1: I used 14 feet of 10 gauge wire between the panel and controller. At the panel's maximum current of about 8 amperes, the voltage drop is only 2%. If I get another panel and double the current, the drop is still only 4% (see this voltage drop calculator). I can live with that. (However, doubling the current vs. doubling the voltage is a clear argument in favor of an MPPT controller, esp. if you have undersize wiring to begin with.)
2: There's no reason to size the controller any bigger than you anticipate growing your solar array. The 20A is enough to handle anything I can fit on the roof of a TC. If we move to a bigger rig I'll take the panel(s) with me and get another controller.
3: Distance from controller to battery is subject to the same voltage drop as any other wiring run, so design accordingly. In my case it was convenient to mount the controller near the battery, and I happened to have some scraps of 8 gauge wire to make the connection, although IMO 12 gauge would have been adequate.
I also thought it wise to add a 10A fuse as close as possible to the battery. I don't like electrical fires.
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