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Topic: how to replace dump valve?

Posted By: Jrebhun on 02/08/09 02:10pm

Arrived in Waco on the way to Mission, TX in my 5er and discovered a broken galley dump valve that I'll have to replace. Can anyone point out a web site that describes how to replace these valves and reattached the drain pipe to them. Thanks. I'll buy the parts in Mission when I get there.


Posted By: Jamesrpm on 02/08/09 04:01pm

Might ask a moderator to move this to a different forum. This one is for computers etc.You would get more / better responses.


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Posted By: Admin on 02/08/09 04:14pm

Moved to Tech Issues

Admin
RV.net


Posted By: ksg5000 on 02/08/09 05:08pm

Are you referring to one of the std Valterra type gate valves?

gate valve

If so - they are pretty easy to put on - just dump - remove the old valve and put on the new. They come with instructions and all you need is a wrench and maybe some pliers.


Kevin


Posted By: Matthew_B on 02/08/09 05:48pm

A couple of tidbits of advice:

At the dump station put blocks under the tires on non dump side of the RV. This will get as much out as possible.

When you go to change the valve, put a blocks on the dump side. This will make whatever liquid that is left behind flow away from the tank exit.

If the valves stem is horizontal, there will be a little bit of liquid that will be trapped behind the slide. Be prepared for it to come out once the valve is removed. If the valve is mounted stem down, there will be quite a bit of nasty stuff behind the slide that will come out when the valve is removed.






Posted By: K3BH on 02/09/09 06:22am

Although I've never had to replace a dump valve, I did see a posting where the poster noted that there are small lips on the dump valve where the pipes are joined. In this case, you will need to be able to separate the incoming and outgoing pipes slightly to slide out the old valve and slide in the new one.

As I said, I read this on this forum but have no personal experience. FWIW!

Jay


Jay, Susan, 2 cats in Bigfoot 29G 6.0L PSD. Toad Saturn Ion. SMI-Brake Silent Partner Stay-in-Play. Demco baseplate & tow bar.



Posted By: j-d on 02/09/09 07:01am

I knew our valves needed replacement when I took the cap off (after being sure the valves were fully closed) and getting what I'll call a Hydraulic Surprise. Don't even know which leaked, but I suspect the black. Replaced both.
Anyhow... Valve seals to flanges on the pipe manifold with O-Rings made of a material with a square cross section. They aren't captive, so a little vaseline or that goopy silicone faucet O-Ring lube would help hold the rings in place, one each side of the valve.
So, what Jay says - You DO need just a little separation, 1/4" should do it. Please be sure it's fully lined up/seated and don't try to squeeze into alignment with the bolts. Could crack or leak.


God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100


Posted By: JohnG3 on 02/09/09 08:59am

I just did that on SIL's Road Trek. Black and grey valves are just a couple inches apart so both had to be loosened. You will need more than 1/4" as each flange is about 1/8" to 3/16". Make sure tank side is properly seated then seat the down stream side. Have at least one bolt handy to keep things in place. Not a difficult job, just unhandy.


John and Elaine. Furry ones, Mia, Buddy, Barney and Miss Chevious (MissC for short).
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2004 Titanium 26E31DS with Bug Room.


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Posted By: mikestock on 02/09/09 10:05am

Just one tip if you run in to the a problem similar to mine.

It was not feasible to remove either the entry or exit side pipe and no way to get sepsration to remove the valve. I had to buy a flexible coupling with hose clamps and sawed out a section of the PVC pipe on the exit side to allow for clearance. I chose the exit side since it only sees flow while dumping. I bought one of those little flexible abrasive wires that are used to cut the PVC in hard-to-get-at places. It worked great. In my case (black tank valve) the PVC was 3". In your case it will likely be 2-1/2". If you have to do this make sure you move far enough away from the valve to allow for the hose clamp.

I hope this helps if you have a similar situation.


2005 F250 Crew Cab LWB Power Stroke, 2007 Montana 3500RL Fifth Wheel,Honda EU3000IS, Twin Honda EU2000i's, S&W security system



Posted By: Ramblin' Ralph on 02/09/09 11:43am

I replaced the grey valve on my truck camper and had a lot of trouble doing it. Very hard to get the separation required to get it in & out, especially with just me working on it.

Had problems with the o-rings being pushed out of place during re-install, due to inadequate separation. Then someone on this forum suggested putting thin plastic sheets (like used for filing pages in a binder) on the outside of the rings. Slide the valve into place then pull the plastic out. Worked like a champ! Highly recommended.


Ralph
2006 GMC 2500HD, XCab, SB, 6.0L w/2001 Lance 845
Firestone Air Bags, 125 watt solar
My RV Travels Webpage and Campsite Map


Posted By: Jrebhun on 02/09/09 02:18pm

Thanksfor all the replys. Discovered my exit pipe with 3 inch sewer connector attached had broken at the dumpvalve. The pipe was glued/epoxyed to the valve and broke the valve lips and parts of the 1 1/2 inch exit pipe. To boot, the whole valve is buried in foam insulation under a plastic bottom cover. Ill have to remove part of the cover to get at removing the valve. Ill do all this under the hot Texan RGV sun while DW basks with her G and T. Aint snowbirding great!


Posted By: EPeterman on 02/09/09 05:30pm

I learned a little trick b/4 replacing the valve a second time. The first time the rubber rings got out of place and got twisted up, no leak but would operate with difficulty. The next time I used the plastic from a blister pack on each side of the new valve over the seals and slid the whole workes into place. Then I slid the plastic out from both sides and bolted it up and the job was done. On my installation there is not enogh room for a easy fit< yours may be different. not a bad job.


ezedp@gmtel.net


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