RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: Chassis to avoid

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  All

 > Chassis to avoid

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Next
Sponsored By:
frankdamp

Anacortes, or wherever we've gone.

Senior Member

Joined: 05/04/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 03/06/09 08:48pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've run a few basic searches in the archives, but haven't found the information I'm looking for condensed into one string.

We had an elderly Class C, 26' until 3 seasons ago when we decided to dump it because it didn't match our needs. We've been outside the circle since the, though I've looked on this forum pretty much every day.

We're hoping to get back into the RV lifestyle either late this season or over the winter, so we're ready for Spring 2010.

We're looking at short Class A rigs (29 to 32 ft). DW is leery of anything bigger, and even though I learned to drive 40'transit coaches at age 66, withoiut any major problems, she's not willing to try it. I don't want to get into the situation where, if I'm sidelined for whatever reason, she can't get us home.

I've been reading the various posts on the older Workhorse P30 and the equivalent Ford, and I'm a bit leery of those, mainly because of the problems with brake systems on the P30 and with overall weight and weight distribution on both of them.

Is there, somewhwere in the archives, that I haven't been able to find, a treatise on the problems with the Workhorse P30 and whatever preceded the Ford F53?

I'd really like to find a mid to late 90's, 30' to 32' DP for somewhere in the low $20K range, but I'm not holding my breath. I missed a nice Beaver Charleston 31' a few months back because the seller was asking 2.5x NADA. He managed to sell it, but I don't know what the final price was. I offered 0.9x retail NADA, but was laughed off the lot.

Because DW is fairly small and we have frequent visitors with limited mobility, we can't consider a full-size 4x4 truck, or even a 2wd one as a daily driver. We run a Kia Sedona as our only car and don't find any TT's within our 3500 lb tow limit that we could live with.

Since we aren't agile enough and too claustrophobic to use the over-cab bed in a Class C (based on experience with one), we're not interested in going that way.

We really want to get back into the RV life, but we're stymied by the lack of options that fit our restrictions.

Comments appreciated, including additional ideas for the type of rig.


Frank Damp, DW - Eileen
Anacortes, WA

'02 Georgetown 325, F53, V-10.
Dogs - 2 Labs, both yellow males, both 10 yrs old and both adopted.

Gale Hawkins

Murray, KY

Senior Member

Joined: 07/22/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/06/09 09:00pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

How much are you willing to spend of your saving for a MH this time around will let others know what chassis could be an option for you.

By the way none of the chassis brake issues seem to appear on the same chassis used by service trucks that go every day so it is more if you do not use it you loose it.

Fishinghat

Western Washington, USA

Senior Member

Joined: 10/03/2002

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/06/09 09:04pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Frank, a DP in the 30 foot range would be too short to ride well. A DP should be at least 35 ft. There are several DPs in that size range from the mid to late 90's, and they should run in the low 20K range. A sample in excellent condition will probably be more expensive.

Keep looking. Check PPL in Texas for sold prices to get an idea of what coaches should cost.


Holiday Rambler Navigator DP, Hummer, and Honda VT1100C Shadow


SooperDaddy

Southern California

Senior Member

Joined: 08/13/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/06/09 09:19pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You might have to "settle", at some point, and rethink your choice of a Class A. A short Class A motorhome is ...well a Class C! Look at some of the Class C's that have a rear bedroom, and the cabover bed can be for the visitor or grandkids, or even used for storage or a entertainment system. And a Class C would not damage your budget initally or as the years go by. And your DW would be comfortable driving one, I assume!

Try to find an original owner RV, as you will have a better idea of how it was maintained, and how much they cared for it. Altho the Lazy Daze brand of Class C motorhomes keep their value extremely well, which reflects in their higher used prices, you might consider looking at them. No slideout means lower weight overall, and a lower height RV. Often called the "sports car" of Class C RV's! And they are legendary on longevity and qualit. Wish you the best of luck!


My posts shouldn't be taken for factual data, and are purely fictional, for entertainment purposes, should not be constituted as related to scientific, technical, engineering, legal, religious, spiritual, or practical advice. After all it's FREE! Amen.


427435

Rochester, Mn

Senior Member

Joined: 11/12/2005

View Profile



Posted: 03/06/09 09:20pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In the length range you're looking, it's going to likely be gas. That being said, get at least a 2000 model year CHASSIS or newer with the V10 Ford or 8.1 Workhorse engines. You will have both better handling (wider wheel treads) and better engines.

If you can move all the way up to a 2006 gas chassis, they will be even better.

Do a search on "Workhorse brakes". Some years had issues.


Mark

2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U on a Ford chassis, 80,000 miles
2003 Ford Explorer toad with Ready Brake supplemental brakes,
Ready Brute tow bar, and Demco base plate.


Ajones42

South Texas Puckerbrush

Senior Member

Joined: 11/17/2006

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/06/09 09:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Fishinghat wrote:

Frank, a DP in the 30 foot range would be too short to ride well. A DP should be at least 35 ft. There are several DPs in that size range from the mid to late 90's, and they should run in the low 20K range. A sample in excellent condition will probably be more expensive.

Keep looking. Check PPL in Texas for sold prices to get an idea of what coaches should cost.


Oh, I don't know about that! My Dolphin 32D gets in and out of small sites like you find in the State Parks quite nicely. I have never had a single complaint about a harsh ride and it is not even on air bags.


Fulltiming in a 2010 Puma 30RKSS
1993 Dolphin 32D -> Destroyed by hail April 2013
Gate Guards in the South Texas Pucker Brush
My Old RV
Oil Field Gate Guard Forum

Daveinet

il

Senior Member

Joined: 10/29/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/06/09 09:50pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

P 30 chassis would probably be fine in an under 30' length. That short of a coach, the chassis is not overloaded. My parents second RV was a 27' on a P30 and handled just fine, even in high winds. Where you run into problems is when the chassis is overloaded and too long. In contrast, I drove a 35' Airstream that handled like crap. Too much motorhome for the P 30 chassis.

My point of reference is my motorhome is 31', and is the best handling coach ever made. From that point of reference, I have driven a 36' Foretravel DP which drives so well, I didn't notice the larger size or length. The sharp wheel cut made it very maneuverable. In contrast, I have driven my parents 34' on a W22 chassis, and it is very cumbersome and the length is very noticeable. The point is length is not as important as drivability. Test drive a 36' FT and prove it to yourself. Don't trick yourself into an arbitrary number on length. Each chassis is different.


Dave

The Flying Fortress
FMCA F298817
'83 Revcon Prince 31' FWD
502 w/Howell/GM 16197427 ECM/Edelbrock MPFI,Thorley's & Magnaflows,
4L85E 4 speed, KoniFSD,
6% grade = wanna drag?
MISC photos
Revconeers Forum


Economical Handyman

S. California

Senior Member

Joined: 02/19/2004

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 03/06/09 09:41pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A 30/32' (to short of wheel base) DP with leaf springs will keep white-knuckle driving most of the time.

I had a DP with leaf springs NEVER again. Also air over hyd. brakes would never happen again.
As posted above 35/36' with air ride and full air-brakes should be okay, 38' with a long wheel base would be better yet.


DeWayne & Judy
04 3810 Dutch Star
ISL 370
Frank's autoformer
01 Sahara Jeep-toad
Blue Ox Aventa II
F 374382
This is not the "GOLDEN-YEARS", it is the "RUSTY-YEARS" !


DSDP Don

Moorpark, Ca

Senior Member

Joined: 04/09/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 03/06/09 10:01pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Frank...Go back and look at the Class C's in the year you want. All of them had rear bedrooms. We had a 1991 Fleetwood Jamboree 27' with a queen island bed in the rear. It had the overhead bed up front, but they also sold a model that converted the front bed area into cabinet space and entertainment center instead of the bed.

Mine had the 460 Ford and ran flawless for 14 years.


Don & Mary
2014 Newmar Dutch Star 4018
450 Cummins
2012 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ CrewCab 4WD
2013 Polaris RZR 800 LE


Gale Hawkins

Murray, KY

Senior Member

Joined: 07/22/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/06/09 09:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wheelbase will let you know how they may handle without a test drive. We have a 1992 P30 chassis when new was taken from 190" to 208" WB and at 32' it drives and handles super. I am sure that 18" makes huge difference. The less overhang the better.

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  All

 > Chassis to avoid
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2014 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS