I have the marshall changeover valve with the supplied rubber hose tank connectors. I have been having problems with my heater since the trailer was new. I noticed when the heater would not continue to run the stove would go real low as i was checking for flow. I took the regulator off and the hoses off to see if there was any blockages, none were found all dry.so i hooked up the regulator to the propane tank off the trailer and opened the valve and observed good flow from one side, but every time i turn on the other side even ever so slowly it just shuts down. Swapped the hoses around, still that stupid shuttle valve is closing even on the smallest amount of flow on one of the connectors. Can you take these apart? I am going to buy a new one but I will destroy this one to see how it works if i have to. A note to those people having problems with their heaters shutting down, this could also be your problem. I never knew there was a safety built in to these!!!
"Nobody knows how we got to the top of the hill, but since we're on our way down, we might as well enjoy the ride". ("The Secret Of Life", James Taylor).
Yep, it happens. My new trailer has 3 propane tanks. On a hunting trip last year, the first two were used up, then the furnace went out in the middle of a snowstorm with howling winds. I put an extra tank in the place of the first one used, and went inside wondering how I'd used up 3 tanks full.
Winterizing the unit after the trip, I found out the middle tank was still full????
Did a bit of troubleshooting, and found the same problem you have. Could get minimal flow out of the hose on that tank, but not enough to run the furnace. Confirmed the problem by swapping the hose to another location, and then just for grins drilled out the flow limiter and proved it worked then.
Before anyone gets excited, I bought a new hose and replaced the one I drilled out. Threw the drilled out one in the trash. Didn't camp with it, just ran everything in the driveway to verify the fix.
I ran into a similar problem but found that really cranking down on the big twist-able knob made a difference... Also make sure that there isn't any foreign material in the tank receptacle and hose end...
Sometimes new and improved isn't always better
Les
2000 Ford F-250SD, XLT, 4X4 Off Road, SuperCab
w/ 6.8L (415 C.I.) V-10/3:73LS/4R100
Banks Power Pack w/Trans Command & OttoMind
2006 Nomad 3150 Double Slide (Bunkhouse)
Hensley Arrow
Jordan Ultima 2020
I've drilled a number of those spuds out. They're made for the few IDIOTS who don't know how to tell they have a leak in their backyard BBQ. Works fine then.
John
2008 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40' QSP
2006 Chevrolet Colorado Toad
BlueOx Aventa LX Tow Bar
SMI Air Force One toad brake
Copilot Live Laptop 10 GPS
JUrban wrote: I've drilled a number of those spuds out. They're made for the few IDIOTS who don't know how to tell they have a leak in their backyard BBQ. Works fine then.
John
That sounds easier than buying an evacuation QCC type 1 (non pigtail)
ME517EV QCC Nut for Evacuation Only Full Flow
Female 1-5/16” ACME x 1/4” M NPT, full flow for fast evacuation of pressurized shipping air.
That Jan 30, 09 entry is an excellent narrative that explains the safety features of the valve and connector and how the “flow-limiting-device” part of the big green nut can maintain limited flow.
Just an addendum to my post about drilling out the spuds to eliminate the flow limiter in the green Acme threaded nut.
Since we boondock a lot, I wanted to be able to use external portable tanks to supply LP when we were parked remotely for several weeks. There is a setup called an "Extend-A-Stay" that can be purchased, or you can make up a suitable T fitting and valve that will serve the same purpose. I chose the purchased "Extend-A-Stay", and had flow limiter problems from the get-go. The reason it was setting was that my rig has a 30 and 35,000 BTU Furnace, and when both lit at the same time the flow limiters thought "leak" and shut down. The Extend-A-Stay fitting's gas spud had a flow limiter in it, as well as the green nut that connects to the bottle.
However the problems did not end there. It turns out that some 20 and 30 pound cylinders also have flow limiters as part of the OPD valve assembly. After much research and talking to a tank engineer from Manchester Tank, I found this out. According to him, the design of some OPD valves gave an added effect of acting like a flow limiter. This was not designed that way, and was just a side effect, but the folks who came up with that design left the added factor in. If you want a valve that doesn't have this automatic flow limiter in it, look right under the triangular handle on the flat side of the valve for the word "ITALY" cast into the brass. These valves are not flow limited.
Turns out Lowes Home Centers was selling these Manchester tanks with the Italian valves. I got three and only refill these, not exchange them. No further problems, but the spuds on the pigtail Green nut, and the Extend-A-Stay are drilled. The spud on my RV gas system that screws into the low pressure side of the regulator for house gas is also a flow limiter, but since it is sized for the max flow the RV is expected to draw, it does not shut off gas for normal use, and is not drilled.
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