Two things you can do, 1., if you front only weighs 4,500 to 5,000lbs you should be able to safely run 70-75psi in your tires, 2., install Koni FSD shocks on your front suspension. It also helps, as others suggested if you can get more weight on your front suspension, however be sure you adjust the air pressure in your tires accordingly.
Good Luck
Jim & Sherry Seward
Las Vegas, NV
2000 Residency 3790 V-10 w/tags & Banks System
2003 Suzuki XL/7 toad
LVJ58 wrote: Two things you can do, 1., if you front only weighs 4,500 to 5,000lbs you should be able to safely run 70-75psi in your tires, 2., install Koni FSD shocks on your front suspension. It also helps, as others suggested if you can get more weight on your front suspension, however be sure you adjust the air pressure in your tires accordingly.
Good Luck
I already have koni front and rear shocks, I have ran the lower pressure like you say down to 70psi no improvements before or after shocks or tires
So are all these comparisons between rattle traps and dreams with the same chassis? Are we comparing apples to apples here?
Also, would someone please tell me again about the terrible P chassis that no one would ever want? I don't get this one either, as I'm on my second one and both will go down the road straight and true at any speed with a pretty decent ride under most all conditions.
"We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey."
1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Model 6350, with a tag axle and one slide, on a 1997 P32 Chevy chassis....7.4 Vortec Engine
I too dislike that stretch of road, and many more in California. If this has not always been the way the rig rides, then you will probably find an item that needs replacing. Koni's? Are they the FSD, or the adjustables? Our local Romona Fire Dude mentioned the FSD's. I had just installed all four new adjustable Koni's, about four months before FSD's game out. I like the adjustable, as the control via rebound, instead of on the upstroke. Fire Dude knows I swapped out our less then 7K adjustable front Koni's with the FSD's. I like them. I don't think the improvement was as great between both Koni's as it would have been with a conventional shock. As again, the Koni's don't add to the stiffness due to their rebound control. I'm happy with adjustabls on the rear, with the FSD's on the front. (FIRE DUDE - I still have not tried to move thosee front Adjustables, if you're ready for them now, I think the would be a cost effective addition to the front end ride, matched with the rear Bilstiens.)
I already have koni front and rear shocks, I have ran the lower pressure like you say down to 70psi no improvements before or after shocks or tires
What Koni shocks are you using on the front, Koni adjustable or the FSD?
If they're the adjustable type, try replacing them with the FSD's if you have the FSD's up front, then, not much more you can do other than add some serious weight over the front suspension.
I wish you the best in softening up your ride, Jim
xkmail,
You stated you'd rather fix the problem than add weight to the front end. We all would that have the F-53 chassis. But, like others and I have stated, Ford and or the coach builder specked out the heavy duty front springs and many times the coach is not built with the intended weight up front. It's kind of like putting dump truck springs on the front of an ordinary pick up. I'm not in favor of dumping $2700.00 into the front suspension either, that's why I haven't done it "Yet".
Shimmies etc can be caused by things other than worn parts too. If, as you say, on smooth pavement you get shimmies, one of the things to look at is to make sure your front tires are adequately balanced and "Trued". Motor home tires are no different than any other tire when it comes to being out of round. I've had many tires trued and it's been an incredible difference. You'd be amazed at the pile of rubber that's shaved off to make some tires "Round".
Discussions on what type of balancing, Dyna beads, lead weights, centra-balance and on and on have been talked about here. A slight but simple test would be to drive your coach for about 15-20 minutes at a somewhat higher speed and then park it and as soon as possible, raise the front end so the tires are just off the ground and put some thing as a reference point just a few thousands off the tread of the each tire. Then spin the tire slowly. Watch for the variation of distance between the reference point and the tire. Most tire dealers will tell you 60-80 thousands or more is grounds for truing the tire(s).
I did it on our present coach and it made a substantial difference. What's also neat about that is the fact that you won't need half as much weight to balance as you did before truing. You'll get longer tire mileage too. All this doesn't mean yours are out of round, it's just a suggestion to help with your problem.
Smitty, I'm not sure what's next in line for my suspension changes. People say "go to Bilsteins" and it's great help. Well, mine came with them and it's a rock. So, I don't know. I might try the FSDs at some time, but because of two things, one, the price and two, just about every place I called when I was interested in getting some, was back ordered. That was a while ago.
Scott
Scott and Karla San Diego Fire Department RETIRED 1999 Bounder 34V w/slide, V-10 W/BANKS toad-'04 Yellow Jeep Rubicon 2002 Stream Silver Metalic GL 1800 Goldwing KI60ND
You can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear is what I'm thinking. Here's another one, champagne taste with a beer budget.
Yes you can make it ride better, but you're expecting more then that. You should sell that coach, and buy a diesel. You won't be happy otherwise and you'll just end up spending alot of money on F53 improvements. If you can't afford that, then be happy with the F53 or swap it out for your neighbors coach. I'm assuming it's a gasser also.
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