FIRE UP wrote: xkmail,
You stated you'd rather fix the problem than add weight to the front end. We all would that have the F-53 chassis. But, like others and I have stated, Ford and or the coach builder specked out the heavy duty front springs and many times the coach is not built with the intended weight up front. It's kind of like putting dump truck springs on the front of an ordinary pick up. I'm not in favor of dumping $2700.00 into the front suspension either, that's why I haven't done it "Yet".
Shimmies etc can be caused by things other than worn parts too. If, as you say, on smooth pavement you get shimmies, one of the things to look at is to make sure your front tires are adequately balanced and "Trued". Motor home tires are no different than any other tire when it comes to being out of round. I've had many tires trued and it's been an incredible difference. You'd be amazed at the pile of rubber that's shaved off to make some tires "Round".
Discussions on what type of balancing, Dyna beads, lead weights, centra-balance and on and on have been talked about here. A slight but simple test would be to drive your coach for about 15-20 minutes at a somewhat higher speed and then park it and as soon as possible, raise the front end so the tires are just off the ground and put some thing as a reference point just a few thousands off the tread of the each tire. Then spin the tire slowly. Watch for the variation of distance between the reference point and the tire. Most tire dealers will tell you 60-80 thousands or more is grounds for truing the tire(s).
I did it on our present coach and it made a substantial difference. What's also neat about that is the fact that you won't need half as much weight to balance as you did before truing. You'll get longer tire mileage too. All this doesn't mean yours are out of round, it's just a suggestion to help with your problem.
Smitty, I'm not sure what's next in line for my suspension changes. People say "go to Bilsteins" and it's great help. Well, mine came with them and it's a rock. So, I don't know. I might try the FSDs at some time, but because of two things, one, the price and two, just about every place I called when I was interested in getting some, was back ordered. That was a while ago.
Scott
Thanks for the input, but again.
Replaced tires in august with new goodyear g670RV, balanced before my eyes, rides the same.
So its not the tires or the shocks, I would love to drop it off at the rv dealer for a $grand and get a free reach around on my way out the door, but sometimes it's fun to fiddle with things on your own
xkmail wrote: It is especially bad on that section from the 10 east near 60 interchange through beaumont.
I have to slow down to 40mph or it will rattle my cabinets off the ceiling.
Is this the freeway your going 40 on? If it is and your going that slow you need to find antoher route. Going less than the posted minimum speed is dangerous.
xkmail wrote: Just a simple question:
Has anyone replaced ball joints on a 2002-2004 f53 chassis and found that it made a big difference.
Simple answer to a simple ?: No, none to replace, so no big difference.
Maybe now, you can let go of your theory (and the attitude) and pay more attention to the suggestions offered.
Weight on the front axle IS important. Different manufacturers and floorplans load chassis' differently.
My water tank is just behind the front axle and the coach rides much better with the extra 800 lbs. of water than with it empty. Some coaches have the water tank behind the rear axle and handle better with an empty tank.
There are several things you can look at, but don't worry about ball joints you don't have.
Dave 2003 Pace Arrow 36R F53 1997 Jeep Wrangler(towed) 2007 GMC 2500HD Sierra Classic 6.6L D/A CC SB(horse hauler) 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 QC SB(hauler) Sundowner 777 Horse trailer
Without getting front end weight up close to axle rating you are doomed, you will not get a good ride. Maybe have the springs changed to a lower capacity if that is possible (remove a leaf??). Also mounting of tire on wheel needs to be correct. I am on my third set of tires (102000 miles) and two out of the three sets had several tires that had to be remounted. There is a ring near the bead. The distance from ring to rim should be uniform all the way around. It is simply amazing how a truck / rv tire place can screw that up so often!!!
There are NO Ball Joints on it so dont worry about checking them!
It is also very easy to see/feel play in you Kingpins or bushings,jack up the axle and take a pry bar under the tire lifting up and down check for movement,also put both hands on the top of the tire when jacked up and push and pull the tire in and out,,if you have movement either way you should have someone who knows about it check it for you,,Kingpins are a fairly large job but not undoable if you have the time and knowledge....
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tropical36 wrote: So are all these comparisons between rattle traps and dreams with the same chassis? Are we comparing apples to apples here?
Also, would someone please tell me again about the terrible P chassis that no one would ever want? I don't get this one either, as I'm on my second one and both will go down the road straight and true at any speed with a pretty decent ride under most all conditions.
Hi, thanks for joining my thread.
I don't care about your P chassis, or some guys 1950 airstream dodge thingamajig.
Just a simple question:
Has anyone replaced ball joints on a 2002-2004 f53 chassis and found that it made a big difference.
I bet if I drill holes in your shocks and pull the weights off your tires your P chassis will go down the road similar to mine.
Now with that being said, the correct thing to do would be to rebalance your tires and replace your shocks, not cry about how P Chassis are the best ride around.
They ALL break down, ALL of them, every last ONE of them.
Getting them fixed correctly is the solution, not the problem.
Nobody has ever replaced the ball joints on a F-53 (or before that, John Deere) chassis because it is a straight axle, leaf spring front end and it doesn't have ball joints like a 1/2 ton pickup or SUV.
What makes a difference on high frequency low amplitude bumps like expansion joints is to lower the initial spring rate, by installing softer springs or air springs, which are much more progressive in rate, very soft at low amplitude. For a buggy spring suspension as used on the F-53, small bumps like expansion joints are meant to be absorbed by the tires, so running the lowest tire pressure that will carry the load will help the ride.
Harshness on large amplitude, high frequency bumps like potholes, that's a different problem, shock absorber tuning can help.
Lack of steering control, shimmying problems are unrelated to ride, but here is where worn suspension parts (steering gear, king pins, sway control devices, wheel bearings) or poor alignment are factors.
You can't test for kingpin wear with the "crowbar" test for ball joints. The geometry of the device is totally different.
I wonder what part of the statement "about no ball joints on a F53 chassis " is too difficult to understand.
I will never forget the guy that came in my shop one day and asked how much it would cost to have his muffler bearings replaced on his Pontiac Firebird, I told him if he had to ask he couldn't afford it. He left scratching his head, I thought I was going to die laughing.
David Just rolling along enjoying life w/F53 Southwind towing 87 Samurai looking to golf or fish Simply Despicable
OK, looked under my RV it is solid axle and kingpin, there is some good input above, thanks.
I hate to spend big bucks but will see if I can jack it up today and look for anything obviously loose or bent, worn rubber parts.
Funny thing maybe it is just too stiff springs,
or going airbag style.
What would be interesting is getting longer bolts and doing a dual shock setup, there is plenty of room to add a shock.
....For a buggy spring suspension as used on the F-53, small bumps like expansion joints are meant to be absorbed by the tires...
For the record, that was my experience. When I swapped out the 10 year old belted sidewall tires for a set of much cheaper BFG's the ride improved a lot. Of course the trade off was more sway in the front end, and some would say more risk for a blowout.
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