Clattertruck
Centennial Colorado
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Joined: 06/19/2003
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The OP is asking how to keep the flame going. Here is was was my solution:
On a previous camper, my Dometic RM 2551 Americana would work fine on propane while stationary, but on the road it would blow out from time to time. Dometic had a couple of baffles that go on the louvered access door so I tried them to no avail. I had the flame and gas pressure checked, but nothing was wrong.
I read an article that said that variations in aero dynamics of the coach or even the tow vehicle might have wild effects on the roof vent stack. http://www.rvmobile.com/tech/Trouble/blowout.htm
I fixed the problem with a baffle (6x12 in) that sits in 6 inches in front of the Roof vent. The change in the turbulence cured the problem 100 percent.
Clattertruck
2008 SD F450 PSD 6.4L CC 4X4 DRW, Lariat Auto trans 4.30 LS, 2008 Snowriver 108 truck camper. Jeep Unlimited Rubicon as toad.
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tomarn49
Missouri
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Joined: 07/10/2007
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Clatter - did you try the other types of baffles before you installed the one in the photo? I have the same problem and need to do something. Ice melts, beer warm, etc. on every trip when we stop. Had rv shop install small baffle inside rear access panel to ref, but still a problem. Only time it didn't blow out is when I put a furnace filter behind the louver panel - had some mild burning of the filter so I stopped doing that. Again, did you try any other baffles?
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Clattertruck
Centennial Colorado
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tomarn49,
Yes, I tried the "factory" baffles in the door that did not work. I built some sheet metal deflectors around the flame area that did not work. After I read about aerodynamics being the main caused did the top thing in the photo.
I think it could be smaller or just something to wrap around the front of the vent. I sold that camper before trying anything else.
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Windwalker55
Missouri
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youngm357 wrote:I'm sure someone has either an opinion and/or an idea of how to do this. I have heard something about putting screens in the louvered vent openings on the side. Other ideas? I really don't like the idea of running 12volts on the road.
Mine won't stay lit while underway and I also don't want to run 12v. I freeze a quart milk container each night that is filled with water and then simply put it in the fridge the next day while I travel. This keeps things nice and cool and I don't have to use any energy to do it. You just need to remember to put it back in the freezer in the evening when you turn the refrigerator back on.
Larry
Hitchiker II LS 30.5
Alpenlite Laramie LS850
'The changes somehow frighten me
Still I have to smile
It turns me on to think of growing old
For though my life's been good to me
There's still so much to do
So many things my mind has never known'
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DesertDave100
San Jose CA
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On my former 4 wheel camper the fridge wouldn't stay lit in wind of any kind. Stationary I would tape a piece of 1/2" open cell foam over the entire vent on the side. It would pass air but really baffled it. That kept it running most of the time. There was no way I found that would allow it to operate on propane underway. Being a popup there was no roof vent.
I used frozen items on loading and ran it on 12V underway, but had to turn it off if I stopped very long underway.
2006 Bigfoot 9.4 LB 2500 series. Rides on a 2007 Ford F350 6.0 SRW Torqshift
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F450WHEELS
CA.
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I just ordered A new lance camper and would like to know how long can you leave the frig. on 12v without killing the bat.
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Reddog1
El Dorado, CA
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Joined: 03/09/2004
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My suggestion is to look at the burner area of other RV Refers that stay lit while on the road. I have had no problem with the running on propane, on my last three TCs. It does have to do with the bafels around the burner area.
I would be hesitant in covering the louver panel. It will probably have a negative impact on the cooling during the summer months. I do put 1/8-inch hardware cloth on all openings, including the louver panel. This is to prevent wasp and other critters from building nest where there should not be any. The are attracted to the odor of propane.
This may be a site that has your answer: RV Mobile
My refer is a Dometic. This is a photo of the back.
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stevenal
Newport, OR, USA
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I thought mine was blowing out, until I tried blowing it out on purpose. The electronic ignition immediately re-lit the flame. Worked every time. Turns out the board was cutting out. A new board from Dinosaur kept that pesky check light from coming on.
'99 Bigfoot 1500
with low loss control on the Fantastic, Dino board on the Dometic.
Torklifts and Fastguns
'04 F350 V10 Crew SRW SB 4X4 6 speed
with tow hook replacement, dual rate charging, Line-X, Timbrens.
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kcabpilot
CA
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I was going to suggest that as well. It may not be actually blowing out but getting shut off because of a bad thermocoupler or the signal path. Our Dometic RM2611 always had problems on propane and not just underway. I also installed the Dinosaur board and it has been flawless ever since.
1994 Lance 990 on 1997 F350 PSD Dually "Rhino Haunches"
We also have a 'truck' that FLYS
Our recent camping trips
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Sportsman Matt
Blackstone, MA
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Auto Relighter for Propane Refrigerators
From the Wander the West Forums
I'm going to be doing this modification on my new refrigerator in my Sunline next month
Good Luck
Life is short, Play harder.
2002 GMC Sierra 1500 Regular Cab Long Bed 4.3L V6 Automatic 2WD
1989 Sunline C-750 Slide In Truck Camper
7'6" Floor, 11'6" OAL
Fishing and Hunting New England and eventually the world
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