I have a 1998 Chevy Astro AWD. Even without pulling my cargo trailer very often, I go through rotors about 12 - 15,000 miles. They warp, and of course, once they warp, there's not much help for them.
So, my question is: Has anyone found a better rotor that does not warp, or at least does not warp in so short a time?
One brake shop suggested slotted and drilled rotors. Does anyone have experience with these?
jdgreen42 wrote: Biggest cause of warped rotors is improper torque when mounting wheels. It is very important that they be torqued correctly.
Yes exactly. That's what I was going to say. I used to get warped rotors on a regular basis from either the Techs or the gophers in the shop overtightening the wheels after a brake inspection or doing a tire rotation.
Last week I had my vehicle in for the required service (to say that I've maintained it for warranty coverage).
As soon as I brought my vehicle home I got my tools out and my torque wrench and loosened all the lug nuts and re-torqued according to the manual's specs...in proper sequence. Some of the lug nuts were on so tight I needed the strength of the Hulk to loosen them.
Since (for over 20 years) I've been re-torquing my lug nuts, any time the techs take it off for a service...I've had no warped rotors. I had a Astro which towed and I followed the same practice there...never any warped rotors as a result.
The key is to re-torque your wheels as soon as you can, that day before you drive very much. I carry my torque wrench in the vehicle when I'm traveling, in case I have a flat that is fixed by a tech. Your manual will tell you the torque required and the sequence. Some manuals in fact tell you to re-torque your wheels after the wheel has been off and state the reason is to avoid warped rotors. Hmmmn...they know what the problem is out there.
BTW....I'm sure there are some good techs out there...but there are also those are careless, sloppy, don't bother to follow specs. My BIL is a gas and diesel certified mechanic. When he was living in the same area I would either pay him to do the service, or to check the service done by dealership techs. He invariably would find mistakes...but he was good, he was careful...after all it was a relative's vehicle.
How heavy is your trailer? if over 1000lbs does it have it`s own brakes? if it does are you using a brake controller? most of the time when towing and you get warped rotors, it is from overheating the brakes.
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jdgreen42 wrote: Biggest cause of warped rotors is improper torque when mounting wheels. It is very important that they be torqued correctly.
Without a doubt this probably is part of the issue. No trailer brakes can also lead to excessive heat as can a whole bunch of other issues like poor brake pad fitment and lack of slide pin lubrication.
Some drivers unknowingly abuse brakes too with a two foot driving style.....that doesn't fully release brakes.
As another suggestion, do understand the "current behavior" of your Van's under braking behavior. Being an 11 year old van, the front torsion bars (being an AWD vehicle) tend to allow "front sag" (due to old age). Front becomes lower then its rear - if compared to its 1st day of "factory build" stance. And when you hit the brakes, the gravity / forward motion weight (of the van chassis), makes the front of the van go down even lower. With poor front shocks and "old age" front sag, the front brakes is now holding back say 80% ratio. Instead of designed approx 60% ratio on front brakes and 40% ratio on the rear brakes. Thus, 20% weight overlaod weight on front rotors, and one didn't even realize it. As a test to this "old age" front sag condition, drive down a dry pavement road and slam on the brakes. If the Astro's front and goes down way too much `while breaking`, the front suspesnion needs some "younger age" improvement. If wondering, my other vehicle's front end does "very little" front dive - while in a brake slam condition.
As a front suspension improvement suggestion, install HD shocks on the front. This will help reduce "ease of movement" front end up/down movement. Especially during braking. Install some Timbren SES units "on the front" as well. Timbrens on the front (are like air bags without pressurized air inside them) do the same as if installed on the van's rear. re: Reduce suspension depth "downward distance". For more details of front Timbrens for your 199 Astro van, surf: http://www.timbren.com/ses-van-suv.htm http://www.timbren.com/timbren-application-guides/application-pdfs/GMFAST4.pdf
Note: One can also adjust the front Torsion bars (to remove some "old age" front sag) but if one does this, they need an immediate front alignment. Max lift from Torsion bar adjustment is 1". Something to keep in mind as well....
If it was my 1998 AWD Astro van (just like my 2001 AWD Safari van), I'd install Timbrens in the front and also install HD shocks (like Blistien shocks) on all 4 tires. And, I'd install Timbrens on its rear suspesnion as well.
Works great for me (and my 2001 AWD Safari van)...
jdgrenn42 & lesmore49 - Thanks for pointing out to retorque the lug nuts. I will try that.
dodgeguy - My trailer weighs 2000 lbs. empty. It is a 7' x 14' wedge nose cargo trailer. I do not pull it that often. Only when I need certain tools or materials taken to the jobsite. It does have brakes on all four wheels. I try not to put more than 3000 lbs. in it. Normally even less.
I do have a good brake controller. I have even used it manually to help stop when it was snowy and icy this winter.
mapguy - I do not use two feet to drive. I do not ride the brakes. I usually start out at a reasonable rate, and coast a lot of times coming up to a light. I will even push on the brakes to slow down if I'm going fast then let up briefly and brake again, doing so several times to slow the vehicle down.
spike99 - Appreciate the info on the front end being lower than the rear. I currently have airbags on the back and I have the rear higher than the front. I will lower the pressure to level the vehicle. Perhaps that alone will help.
I did have HD shocks installed about a year and a half ago. This was not long after I purchased the larger trailer. I also have Michelin LT tires. I tried to do what I could do to improve the handling with the larger trailer. I also have an Equal-i-zer hitch.
I will check the downward movement when I brake hard and see how much it dips. And, I will see if I can get the torsion bars adjusted.
Back to part of my original question: Has anyone tried slotted and drilled rotors? If so, have they helped?
For slotted or round hole vented brake Rotors, surf: http://www.thepartsbin.com
Search their "1998 Chevrolet Astro Most Popular> Brake Disc" list.
Note: Do shop around because prices do vary.
Even with new higher quality "vented" brake rotors, I'd double check the front compression depth of your van as well. If too much "front down dive" during braking, its extra gravity weight force will "over stress" the new vented replacement rotors as well. The less front vehicle "downward compression" on braking on Astro/Safari van design, the better. Especially on their under designed front brake system.
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