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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > 30 amp and Electric Heaters

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M GO BLUE

Southgate, MI

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Posted: 04/06/09 08:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We use our electric fireplace and a little Holmes cube heater when the temps are 40F and above...below that we use them to supplement the heat put out by the furnace...

Remember the furnace heats the entire are of your RV including the basement where the water pump and lines are...don't count on the portable heaters to keep any lines from freezing...and having only 30A means you con most likely only run one 1500W portable heater at a time...

As someone else stated...what's wrong with using the RV furnace?


ERIC & BEV

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OLYLEN

Washington

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Posted: 04/06/09 09:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have one of the toys that reads out voltage, amps, watts and I have played with it inline with the electric heaters(I run one or two depending on temps and the furnace for bay heat in real cold) and as the voltage drops the amps go up and as the volts go up the amps drop, watts remain about the same. So in my coach I would say the heat is about the same watts = heat output. Just what I have seen in the cooler weather and not an assumption.

LEN

Y-Guy

Tri-Cities, WA

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Posted: 04/06/09 09:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have one of the Holmes HFH2986-U heaters and really like it. Very quiet, no beeping or rotating motors. I can set it high/low or high/low by temp. Generally I just set it to low in the main cabin and let it run. I have two others but they are louder and one is more prone to tipping, this Holmes is a bit large but never had it tip over. Now is a good time to buy them at your Home Depot/Wal-Marts as they are clearing how the winter items.




Winnebago Sightseer 35J | Custom ATV Trailer | Polaris Sportsmans & Honda Recons


Hurricaner

Hurricane Utah

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Posted: 04/06/09 10:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OLYLEN wrote:

I have one of the toys that reads out voltage, amps, watts and I have played with it inline with the electric heaters(I run one or two depending on temps and the furnace for bay heat in real cold) and as the voltage drops the amps go up and as the volts go up the amps drop, watts remain about the same. So in my coach I would say the heat is about the same watts = heat output. Just what I have seen in the cooler weather and not an assumption.

LEN
No, that is not correct. You are dealing with ohms law because this is a resistive load. Check it out for yourself. http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/ohmslaw.htm input 120 volts and 1500 watts and note the heating coil resistance which is fixed, now input that resistance and 110 volts.

Sam


Sam & Kari
Hurricane, Utah


2004 34' Damon Challenger 315

wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 04/06/09 10:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have one of those too

I have the following heaters:
1: 80/150 watt I got at CVS, this is billed as "The world's smallest space heater" Works well and for the area I'm heating it's perfect most of the time

2: 950/1500 watt "Ceramic" type heater, that one I use when #1 don't warm me

3: Holmes, automatic 1500 watt (do not know the lower power setting, never plugged it into the kill-a-watt)

4: 2000 watt, yes 2000 watt (per Kill-a-Watt P3 it's like 1997 watts, in short, 2,000 watts) This one is big, it serves in several other capacities as well (Humidifer and swamp cooler) I really like that sucker, got it off an E-bay store (Gator is the brand)

If I"m using it, it gets it's own power cord 12ga, all the way to the pedistal


Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
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Pusher

Albuquerque, NM

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Posted: 04/06/09 01:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We use a small cube heater of 500,1000 and 1500 watts. The 1500 setting is to noisy so only use it once in awhile. The reason the heaters do not put out the same heat in a MH is because of the wiring in the RV parks. They run in long strings with lots of splices plus the plug-ins and relays in the MH. The voltage might be there but the current capacity problably is not. This all depends on the MH and the RV park wiring.

RV Lifer 1952

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 04/07/09 10:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After reading all the replies (for which I am grateful) I tend to agree that the electrical output at the campground is less than 30 amp. So far this year I have used the same CG, 4 times. However I have just ordered a Vornado TVH-500. I contacted the manufacturer and they would not ship to Canada, they suggested contacting "Bed Bathroom and More" who have stores in Canada. I phoned a store in Ontario and they only had the display model left from the winter season and they gave me 50% off. I paid $80.00 plus $11.00 shipping. I will probably receive it next week. If the product description is correct this heater will heat a room 16' x 16' x 8' high in 15 minutes. So it should be able to handle 35' x 8' x 7' without any problem. We'll soon be going to other campgrounds on Vancouver Island so we will give the new heater a good try out.
Cheers


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PeppyPilot

NW Chicago Suburbs

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Posted: 04/07/09 11:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We use two older Pelonis ceramic furnaces and they work well. However, I believe that all of the non-dedicated outlets combined in our coach may be limited to about 15 amps total, even though they are on several circuits. This may be a function of the power management system.

So, despite each unit being rated at 1500 watts (~12 amps @ 120v), my total draw with both units running seems to top out at 15 amps. This is regardless of power source - genny, 30 amp or 50 amp service. Still works well for us - both units are putting out good heat - one in front, one in back, or as needed.


CJ, Pepe, Abby
2003 Itasca Suncruiser 33V
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