So I have searched until I am sick of reading. I have not seen the answer to the question I have concerning this setup. Will this setup adversely affect the stable towing of a 5er by moving the pivot point back 20"? Someone told that by moving the pivot point back there is a chance to increase the chance of sway similar to that of a bumper pull trailer. I am tired of dealing with a manual slider, especially since having to replace my back window, but do not want any unforseen issues either. Can someone help me satisfy me curiousity please.
2002 Duramax 4X4 CC SB
2005 Cougar 296EFS
Reese 16K Slider
2 Hondas in the front storage compartment
TTT Mirrors
All things in moderation, except acceleration!
Zip ties, the duct tape of the new milenia!
2001 F250 Powersmoke turbo diesel, 3.73LS
Crew Cab, SRW, SB, 6 inch lift, Single 28 inch semi airhorn underneath! SCMT, A Pillar mounted, Pyro, boost and Trans gauges.
2005 Wildcat 29RLBS, Prodigy, 2 EU2000i's Draw Tite 18K Signature Series, front receiver, on board air, Airlift HD airbags
2003 Ford Explorer XLT 4X4, V8, 5sp AT, 3.73LS
2003 Ford Explorer Eddie Bower 4X4, V8 5sp AT, 3.73LS, Dual semi air horns underneath
That's why we passed on buying a Sidewinder 4 years ago, and went with the PullRite SuperGlide. Solid towing performance, 5er tracks perfectly, 90 degree turns without that annoying sound of shattering glass and crushing metal! Even if not for the automatic sliding feature...PullRite makes one of the best, precision made, laser cut, close tolerance hitches out there! And their customer service is supurb, too!
Having a short bed truck I also went throught the same research about the sidewinder. My final concern was not the swaying but putting that much stress on the sidewinder pivot point. I also decided to go with the Pullrite hitch and agree it work's flawlessly Hook and go and it does what it does without any input from you.
06 Chevy CC SB D/A 52Gallon Titon Fuel Tank. Air Lift, Pull Rite Superglide, Hypertech, Volant Catback Exhaust and Cold Air Intake
08 362 Fuzion
03 1800 VTX
07 1100 V-STAR her's
WOJO 1 wrote: So I have searched until I am sick of reading. I have not seen the answer to the question I have concerning this setup. Will this setup adversely affect the stable towing of a 5er by moving the pivot point back 20"? Someone told that by moving the pivot point back there is a chance to increase the chance of sway similar to that of a bumper pull trailer. I am tired of dealing with a manual slider, especially since having to replace my back window, but do not want any unforseen issues either. Can someone help me satisfy me curiousity please.
Who ever told you that doesn't have one. There is absolutely no sway. You won't notice a difference in towing with a SW until you turn. It tracks a little faster and acts more like a bumper pull when you back in a site. It turns much faster but yet it is just as easy. It will take you about 10 seconds tops to get comfortable with driving with it.
The pullrights are plenty good, but man, they sure do take up a lot of bed space and are super heavy and require maintaince with sticky grease, oh and btw, they are very expensive. So we went with the 5th AB with SW and got the best of both worlds.
Less vertical shock, less chucking and no slider for about 1/3rd the price as a autoslider.
For us it choice was easy.
2006 Ford F250 King Ranch PSD
2008 Ford Expedition, HD Tow Package
2005 Chrysler Pacifica, GONE!
2008 Jayco Eagle Super Light 31.5BHDS, KC5PFG,
5th Airborne with SideWinder, Plugitright Stabilizers.
Went from a Hensley with our TT and SUV to the SW and short bed D/A. First pull I was doing slalom down Rt. 30 trying to get sway. Never happened. Pulled through some strong side winds and sudden gusts since then, again no issues. I am very satisfied with the setup. As said above, takes about 10 seconds to get used to.
I have seen the pictures. Nice work. Let me ask you another question. Where we camp most of the time (at the lake) it is almost impossibe to get a straight shot to back in to hook up and it is unlevel to say the least. Is it difficult to hook up with the arm moving around? When I back in will it want to move if not exactly lined up? Might sound like stupid questions but I have not personally seen one in action.
I have seen the pictures. Nice work. Let me ask you another question. Where we camp most of the time (at the lake) it is almost impossibe to get a straight shot to back in to hook up and it is unlevel to say the least. Is it difficult to hook up with the arm moving around? When I back in will it want to move if not exactly lined up? Might sound like stupid questions but I have not personally seen one in action.
I understand that you are asking. The front is locked in with the wedge so it doesn't move, only the turret moves...there is no problem at all getting in to the sites you want, the SW can be very hard to turn by hand until it is broken in. Around 250 miles per the instructions. Mine is still very hard to turn. You do need to lined up with the wedge to hitch but it doesn't matter where its pointed as long as you line up with it. Make sense?
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