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Open Roads Forum  >  General RVing Issues

 > Changing propane solenoid

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franky14

Maryland

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Posted: 05/04/09 08:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am going to be changing out my propane solenoid on my motorhome it is no longer opening every time. Is this something you simply disconnect hoses on both sides replace solenoid and reconnect the hoses (check for leaks)? If so does the cover on the other side of the solenoid come off easily (to the left of my finger, the big cover)? I did a quick look at it and it was not obviously how it comes off to uncover the other side.





Thanks

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA USA

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Posted: 05/04/09 08:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would check the connections on the electrical lines.
I only see one wire from the ground, the black wire. It normally is connected to both battery systems. Check for resistance between each. I added a jumper between my house and chassis batteries.
Check your fuses for the sensor. It should have good power from both battery systems which is then sent to gas valve solenoid on the yellow wire.
You do remove the solenoid as you described. Biggest thing is you may need an adpater to connect hose to tank gas valve fitting at the tank side.


Bud
Suzuki XL7 pushing Pace Arrow



ksg5000

Oregon

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Posted: 05/04/09 09:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I haven't personally taken that cover off .. but in my rig the plastic cover looks like it is held in place with a plastic tab at the front/bottom - held in place with a bolt/nut. Might take a look and see if its the same.


Kevin

franky14

Maryland

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Posted: 05/05/09 05:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enblethen wrote:

I would check the connections on the electrical lines.
I only see one wire from the ground, the black wire. It normally is connected to both battery systems. Check for resistance between each. I added a jumper between my house and chassis batteries.
Check your fuses for the sensor. It should have good power from both battery systems which is then sent to gas valve solenoid on the yellow wire.
You do remove the solenoid as you described. Biggest thing is you may need an adpater to connect hose to tank gas valve fitting at the tank side.


When you stated that you only see one wire from the ground the black one, and that it is normally connected to both battery systems. What do you mean connected to both battery systems? I know when I use a meter that I have 12 volt coming down to the soloenoid however it is not popping open everytime. It is only opening once or twice out of ten times of turning the switch on and off and waiting.

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA USA

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Posted: 05/05/09 06:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MHs have two battery systems, chassis which starts and operates most vehicle operations, and the house system which operates most every thing in the living area. If you pull the sensor out of the wall you should find two red wires and one yellow. The red wires go to the battery systems one to each. The yellow wire goes to the solenoid.
"It is only opening once or twice out of ten times of turning the switch on and off and waiting." This is confusing, you should not be turning the switch on the LP detector on and off. Turn it on and let it run!

pete42

Ohio

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Posted: 05/05/09 02:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Looking as closely as I can at your pictures the coil seems to be one piece.
Did you remove a red snap cap from on top of the metal tube that is sticking thru the coil?
If so just lift the coil and the metal piece off the valve.
Now be sure and turn off the electricity going to the valve.
If the coil is off the valve and electricity is applied the coil will burn up the coil MUST have some thing metal in the hole screwdriverm bolt ect.
remove the valve from the hoses replace the valve with a new one replace the coil back on the valve check for leaks your good to go.





franky14

Maryland

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Posted: 05/05/09 04:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enblethen wrote:

MHs have two battery systems, chassis which starts and operates most vehicle operations, and the house system which operates most every thing in the living area. If you pull the sensor out of the wall you should find two red wires and one yellow. The red wires go to the battery systems one to each. The yellow wire goes to the solenoid.
"It is only opening once or twice out of ten times of turning the switch on and off and waiting." This is confusing, you should not be turning the switch on the LP detector on and off. Turn it on and let it run!


When I turn on the detector it goes through it's 15 or so seconds of beeping and once stopped the solenoid will pop open. It can sit there all day and never pop. If you turn it on and off let it continue with the beeping again, then it may or may not open again. Repeating this several times is what it will take for the soloenoid to finally pop open.

ksg5000

Oregon

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Posted: 05/05/09 04:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think you maybe correct and that your solenoid has just gotten old and is sticking. I know that older battery isolator solenoids have the same symptoms and they are inexpensive and easy to replace. Haven't a clue how to replace a propane solenoid. Suspect a propane dealer would have it replaced within a couple of minutes with a nominal service charge - worth a call.

Good luck.

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA USA

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Posted: 05/05/09 05:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds more like an electrical problem then a mechanical problem. I would check all the electrical connections from the power sources.
What brand of detector? Make and model

pete42

Ohio

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Posted: 05/05/09 08:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My propane detector only sounds an alarm.
I have a TT with external propane tanks I gather MH's have a switch to turn on the propane tank or the solenoid is controlled by the dector.
and you have to turn the dector on and off several times before the solenoid opens. I can tell you from working as a foundry electrician for over 40 years
I have seen many many sticking solenoids. replace the valve with correct replacement like I stated above I will bet the coil is ok, but if not the valves come with new coils easy to replace.
good luck and let us know how you come out and what you fine

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