A leaky heat exchanger!!UGHH!
I would think if that were the case people would have gotten very sick by now.But definately worth looking into considering the health risks.
When I contacted the dealer today they stated the did not change the water filter because they were out of stock but flushed it well. I will replace the filter as soon as they are instock. I surely hope that will fix the problem. Thanks again for all of the quick responses.
Larry and Debbie
2004 Southwind 37C W22
2005 Honda CRV
"HPY RVN"
My guess is that during the winterizing process, the dealer did not blow out the antifreeze after it was pumped through the system. The best way to winterize in the future is; 1) drain all water lines out; 2) blow water out of lines by use of an adapter on fresh water inlet connector; 3) close bypass valve on hot water tank; 4) drain tank by taking out drain plug; 5) place drain plug back in hand tight after water stops coming out; 6) pump antifreeze in the system using the mh pump; 7) then blow out the antifreeze using the water inlet connection. This also winterizes the P-traps.
Having done this for years, I've never had any freeze damage here in upstate NY; and by blowing the antifreeze out, there is only minimal residue left, so it is gone just by putting new fresh water in the spring and doing a short flush. Don't need to flush more than a couple of minutes.
Leewhiz wrote: My guess is that during the winterizing process, the dealer did not blow out the antifreeze after it was pumped through the system. The best way to winterize in the future is; 1) drain all water lines out; 2) blow water out of lines by use of an adapter on fresh water inlet connector; 3) close bypass valve on hot water tank; 4) drain tank by taking out drain plug; 5) place drain plug back in hand tight after water stops coming out; 6) pump antifreeze in the system using the mh pump; 7) then blow out the antifreeze using the water inlet connection. This also winterizes the P-traps.
Having done this for years, I've never had any freeze damage here in upstate NY; and by blowing the antifreeze out, there is only minimal residue left, so it is gone just by putting new fresh water in the spring and doing a short flush. Don't need to flush more than a couple of minutes.
I would agree with all this except for #'s 6) and on. You don't need anti-freeze after you've blown out the lines. Just pour some into the drain traps and you're done. This comes from experience during two very cold winters (-55°F nights) in Alaska.
And for those that feel the need to use clorox, it only takes a very small amount, like two tablespoons per 60 gallons, to sanitize. More then that is called super-chlorination. Then to sweeten after chlorinating, add a half cup of baking soda to a 60 gallon tank.
Remember folks, there is a wide spread water shortage all over the US, flushing a 60 gallon tank is unnecessary if you don't use anti-freeze to begin with. Nor is it necessary if you don't over chlorinate.
Note my signature, same year and make, probably a different model. I winterize my own - takes about 10 minutes after I drain the FW tank and the water heater. and open the low point drains (all with faucets open). Close the low point drains and faucets when they stop running Switch the water heater valve to bypass connect a clear plastic hose to inlet of pump and begin to pump pink opening faucets from back to front until they run pink. Don't forget showers (inside and out) and the sprayers for the toilet and the kitchen sink.
Oh I forgot to mention, remove ALL filters before starting the pink!
I just let her sit with the pink until we leave in January. I dewinterize by reinstalling plug in water heater and opening bypass and letting water run in from fill hose, then I reinstall my filters and I fill the FW tank to half (or whatever I want to run with). I leave the pink in the system since it is still below freezing here in Rochester. Once I am ready to turn on my furnace - usually that same day - I run water to the faucets I will be using for the run south. Generally all the inside faucets. I have never had a problem with freezing and once the pink runs clear the water is usable. The coffee tastes fine by the second day.
As I see it the keys are to make sure your filters are out of the circuit so they do not get any pink in them. There is no way to flush it out of the filter. Your dealer did not want to give you a new $30 filter because of his own stupidity. If he winterized it he owes you a new filter! Other than that I see no way you would have a problem with that coach.
Paul
Trucking down the road in a 2004 Southwind 36E on Workhorse Chassis with a 2005 Toyota RAV4 AWD stick shift tow'd with US Gear Brake System. Check out my journal
FMCA 352081
Time, patience, and a little bleach. Let your fresh water tank and lines soak with the bleach mixture overnight or longer. Than flush a few tankfuls of fresh water through the lines.
One of the advantages of "winterizing" your unit youself is that you KNOW.
Winterizing is not hard...either by the pink antifreeze or by compressed air.
Think about it. Either method is just fine.
Right now...as mentioned above, flush your water pipes with plenty of water. There should be NO anti-freeze in the hot-water tank. If there is (was), then your winterizer ripped you for 6 gallons that were not really needed.
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Jim@HiTek
