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KKELLER14K

BEAVERTON OREGON

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Posted: 06/17/09 08:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

UPDATE!! It has been a new policy change at Photobucket to stop allowing 3rd party sharing of photos on this post. Sorry it now becomes a dead link...It did help many through the years. I will put together a new topic using the new forum way of posting pictures.....UPDATE!! It has been a misconception even on my part, that adding machine oil to the crank socket lubricates the jack itself. This is UNTRUE! I now have a complete tear down with pics to show everyone what goes on inside and how to disassemble and lube the working parts if need be. This is a little lengthy but most will find the education worth the read. This is a model 4150.
[image]
First you have to make a little tool like this. An old hanger works good. This will serve two purposes, explanations following.
[image]
Remove the two screws that hold on the motor.
[image]
Pull the motor off the jack.
[image]
Pull out the spring loaded socket.
[image]
[image]
Remove the lever and pin...a pair of flush wire cutters works well. Wedge them underneath and they pop right out.
[image]
[image]
Remove the internal plastic manual mechanism...note how this is installed. one side has a round hole and the other an oval shape where the lever goes.
[image]
[image]
[image]
There is a "C" clip here, you need to remove it with the little tool you made. Just put it in from the side and pull back. It will pop right out.
[image]
[image]
Once you get the clip off then pull out the manual socket.
[image]
[image]
This is the hole in the socket that is to be oiled, but as you can see in the next few pics, the only thing that is being lubed is the socket itself.
[image]
Once you pull out the socket, remove the manual gear.
[image]
Now as you can see the oil really goes nowhere. There is actually a lot of grease here. What your going to do next is pull this gear off that shaft straight towards you. Use that tool again to hook the gear from behind and pull it. You may have to do it a few times, the shaft gets a little burr on it but if it gets stuck ,just push it down and keep yanking, it will come off!
[image]
Once the gear comes off, this is what the back looks like. It has two slots. The slot that has the closed ends is what holds the pin in place. IT IS IMPORTANT YOU PUT THIS BACK TOGETHER THE WAY IT COMES APART!
[image]
Rotate the shaft so the pin is facing towards the corner and pull it out.
[image]
Now pull the leg assembly out of the jack housing.
[image]
Get ready to inspect and re lube.
[image]
[image]
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Pull this cinch spring off and inspect this bearing.
[image]
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Use an air ratchet or drill to turn the worm screw all the way out, inspect and re lube.
[image][image]
Re-assembly is just the opposite of the tear down. I found that even though this jack was sticking on me, it was still pretty well lubed, but maybe not enough.....Hope this dispels any unknown facts as to how these things work. One other note is that if the worm drive of the leg was to wear out...seems like you should be able to replace it rather than the whole jack. MMMMMM...haven't got to that yet but I wonder if they sell it seperatly? Does any one know?

* This post was last edited 07/23/17 01:17pm by KKELLER14K *   View edit history

Itchey Feet

Wyoming

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Posted: 06/17/09 09:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the post, mine are old enough that they do not have the disengagement lever but the everything else should be the same.


My feet are fine as long as they are traveling.

serpa4

East Coast

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Posted: 06/17/09 09:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Aaa yes, IMHO, all the lube needs to be in the worm gear. When my jacks start struggling, the gear box is fine, the crown gears are fine. Only when you truly pull it all apart, that square washer with the grease pockets and the worm gear are about 98% of the problem. The square thrust washer is typically gouged and worn. Sand and polish then coat with grease. All will be good. Excellent write up!
This topic comes up often. Should be a sticky.


Love the camping life. 06 Host Rainier SS, 07 Classic GMC Sierra 3500 DRW.


KKELLER14K

BEAVERTON OREGON

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Posted: 06/18/09 12:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you ....pictures tell all!

ogrer

Norwood On

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Posted: 06/18/09 05:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Great Write up. Nice Pics.

Bob


Bob & Jan

ogrer

Norwood On

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Posted: 06/18/09 05:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is what is left in the outer tube, suitable to the power coat heat of 400 'f?

Cause mine are rusty too.[emoticon]

Just might have to try this.

Bob

middlecalf

Sweet, ID

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Posted: 06/18/09 07:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Do you have any rust on the outside, and if so, did you see any rust on the inside of the column? I've had rust and paint popping on the outside which I've spot repaired, but have wondered about the inside. Concern is integrity of the column but it does look pretty stout (thick).

What about the "nut" at the top of the black column? That looks like it carries the load. It looks like a welded plate.

* This post was edited 06/18/09 07:49am by middlecalf *

Cannon George

Ojai, CA

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Posted: 06/18/09 09:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good post and very helpful.
The factory coating seems to be prone to rusting and I like the suggestion to consider powder (or other shop) coating.

I wonder if now would be a good time to add some strategically located small zerk fittings, to permit introduction of grease and possibly extend interval between tear-downs?

What is thickness of square tube section? This would help in calcuating maximum size hole that could be drilled and tapped in tube without compromising structural integrity.

Reddog1

El Dorado, CA

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Posted: 06/18/09 09:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Great post. I think these types of post are of the most value to RV.NET readers. It helps people to understand their equipment.


Wayne

blackstx

Pittsburgh, PA

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Posted: 06/18/09 12:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Could the outer jack tube be drilled and tapped and a zerk fitting be placed in a area such that grease will get to the worm gear and to the bearing? Just a idea. It wouldn't be very difficult to drill and tap the tube, and It wouldn't cause any structural issues to the jack assembly.

Anyone done this yet?

Great Post!!!


2006 Dodge CC, LB 610 Cummins 6 Speed, Hellwig rear sway bar, rear air bags, 4" Superlift lift, 315X75X17 Mikey Tompson Baja ATS's on factory rims.

2004 Bigfoot 15C9.5FS nicely equipped

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