yes.. re-branding.. thats the way I should have stated it, HoneyWell will buy products ( or have them mfg for them ) and sell them with their Name on them.
HW is NOT leasing their name to the MFG, the MFG is making the product ( generator etc..) for HW
Options, always have options, and the journey goes much smoother ....
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MrWizard wrote: I think i would go gas cap route, take the Original to a small engine shop or OSH and see if you can match it up, DOn't drill the OEM cap, you will need the OEM cap when transporting the genny, or when you don't want to hook up the extended system.
So it's just a matter of making an airtight seal and airtight connection to the external tank and the generator will draw fuel without any further modification?
the generator has a low pressure vacuum operated fuel pump, do NOT expect long hoses and much lift, very likely it will not worked plumbed into the RV's fuel system
some of the honda DIY guys, use marine 6 gallon tanks from walmart, and marine 'primer bulb hose'
the marine tank has the fuel pickup in the bottom of the tank,
put genny on the ground and the tank next to it or even up on the picnic table, hook the marine line with the primer pump to the tank and to the new gas cap with the fitting on it
start the genny, squeeze the primer pump on the hose a few times to fill the hose and get the gas going into the genny tank
thats it, now its a matter of vacuum and air pressure, as fuel in the genny is consumed the gas in the marine tank is drawn into the genny tank, IF & when the marine tank is empty, remove the line swap gas caps and take the marine tank to the gas station to fill it up
many users say they can go the week end with out having to refuel IF NOT running continuously
* This post was
edited 07/06/09 10:29pm by MrWizard *
HOT weather arrived on Friday , when the temps are 90+ degrees the HW struggles under load with (1) DouTherm 11.5k A/C
NO other 120v loads, Converter OFF, fridge "always propane", HW OFF, batteries charged before turning on A/C
the A/C starts and it runs, but the HW struggles running rough, low oil light blinking, even though its full oil ( i'm thinking temp switch or pressure switch OR load sensor ), what ever the reason for the the blinking light , its obvious that when its 96 degrees 'in the shade' its just TOO HOT and TOO much work to power EITHER ONE OF my a/c'S
SAT & SUN I used the champion, today i used the 6.5KW Onan, what a gas HOG
so while the HW will power an 11k A/C, it won't do it when 'chips are down' and its a 'must have' situation
for that I have too go back too 'old faithful yellow'
at least i can use for the majority of my other needs, and even A/C when its 85 and the MH is in the SUN, but when the air temp is TOO hot, I have to use something BIGGER
MrWizard wrote: HOT weather arrived on Friday , when the temps are 90+ degrees the HW struggles under load with (1) DouTherm 11.5k A/C
NO other 120v loads, Converter OFF, fridge "always propane", HW OFF, batteries charged before turning on A/C
the A/C starts and it runs, but the HW struggles running rough, low oil light blinking, even though its full oil ( i'm thinking temp switch or pressure switch OR load sensor ), what ever the reason for the the blinking light , its obvious that when its 96 degrees 'in the shade' its just TOO HOT and TOO much work to power EITHER ONE OF my a/c'S
SAT & SUN I used the champion, today i used the 6.5KW Onan, what a gas HOG
so while the HW will power an 11k A/C, it won't do it when 'chips are down' and its a 'must have' situation
for that I have too go back too 'old faithful yellow'
at least i can use for the majority of my other needs, and even A/C when its 85 and the MH is in the SUN, but when the air temp is TOO hot, I have to use something BIGGER
Well, if you're unhappy with the HW, I'd be more than willing to purchase it from you
NO, i'm quite happy, i just felt it fair to document any issues, running the A/C was not assumed when i bought it,
I was pleasantly surprised when it did run the A/C under cooler conditions, hopefully it saves enough money during the rest of the year to offset the fuel used during A/C season here in So Cal,
today i cleaned and re-gaped the spark plug to 26 thou it was over 30 thou, checked the air filter & oil, I'll find out tomorrow how much that helps if any, the champion and the Onan still carry the A/C, the Onan will power both of them
BTW I could not get enough leverage to loosen the spark plug using the 'tools' and resorted to a 16mm long deep socket and my small flex head 3/8 ratchet wrench
putting the clean plug back in was a test of dexterity ( i did use the included tool ), even with my small hands, i pity the owner with large hands, better get the wife or one of the teens to help out.
Official sound/acoustics guy checking in here in the Honeywell Generator postings..
I bought one locally at Home Depot for the wonderful low price and upon opening the box thought it was a pretty nice unit. What do I have to compare it to? I have had a Champion 3500 - now sold, and a Yamaha i2400 and I have had a 8500w contractor generator...
So the direct comparison to the Yamaha i2400:
Idle:
Yamaha - 59-60dB at 21'
Honeywell - 62-63dB at 21'
Partial load - with ECO mode on (always on with the Yamaha)
Yamaha - 62-63dB
Honeywell - 66-67dB
Full speed!!
Yamaha - 63-64dB
Honeywell - 70-71dB
So in short the Honeywell at idle is a nice generator! When it's revved up to pick up the full load the engine is roaring along at 5000RPM - so while it's only in the 70dB range which is not overly loud, it is a more ANNOYING sound as it's higher in tempo and pitch than the Yamaha. The Yamaha sounds like it maxes out at about 3000-3500RPM's and just sound much more of a muffled tone.
And how do they compare at MAX load? I plugged in a 1550W swiffer mop and 800W worth of incandescent lamps. (all fully resistive loads for this test...) The Yammie just took it and kept on kicking. When I had the 800W on and threw the additional 1550W at it, it did dim the lights for just a moment and then kicked up the RPM's and ran smooth. The overload light was on, but the gen never shut off the power or blinked at the load otherwise.
With the Honeywell it would hum along just fine with the 800W load, but add in the 1550W and it would instantly stall the engine. No warning or anything - just stopped. If I had the 1550W load on it and added the 800W it would keep going as the RPM's were already maxed out but the overload light would come on and it would cut the power after about 10 seconds. I would then need to shut down and restart it to get power back. I was not able to get the 1550W load to start at all in ECO mode on the Honeywell unit. If I had the ECO mode turned off (so the engine was already revving up) then the 1550W would start with a little hesitation.
Another sidenote is that the HW generator would almost ALWAYS need the choke to get the engine started, where the Yammie would start with 1 pull and no choke every time.
It just goes to show that for $299 you do get one nice genset, but it does not perform to the same level as a $1000+ generator.
that's my .02
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For anyone interested we're into our second week of travel with the Honeywell.
So far, I'm quite pleased. Yes, it's no Honda, Yammy, or Kipor on the noise front, but the difference in price has paid for the fuel of our entire 3000 Kilometer (and counting) trip in the last several weeks.
Back to the noise issue, overall it's acceptable in many scenarios. Our typical use (due to the cool temps we've been having) has been to charge the house batteries while boondocking, charge the laptop, run the coffee maker, etc. It's handled it all in stride. Under light load it is quite quiet and you can angle the exhaust end (from which the most noise emanates, exhaust and genset) to help further minimize noise. On about 40' of cord, lightly loaded (some lights, electronics, converter on high rate charge) and with it pointed backwards behind our fiver we can't hear it with windows and the door open.
When loaded down (coffee maker, for example) and the genny comes out of econo mode and ramps up it's more noticeable, but still not bad.
It WILL run our 13.5 rooftop AC but with both it and the converter running it works it hard and under hard AC load (compressor loading up with high humidity/temps) it has overloaded the inverter and kicked the Honeywell into failsafe mode from which you must shut down and restart to avoid. I have our converter wired to a toggle switch which allows me to shut it off (without killing the rest of the circuit it shares which powers numerous receptacles in the trailer) and this solves the problem as the load shedded from the converter running on high-rate charge lowers the amp draw enough that the Honeywell handles the AC continuously without issue. Of course if the converter is not on high rate charge this is a non issue, but we have enough house battery reserve to simply forget about charging when boondocking with AC required so shutting it off isn't a biggie.
Overall, pleased so far. Less noise under heavy load would be nice but even the expensive gensets (including my BIL's 3000 Kipor) get noticably louder under heavy load so I don't feel overly bad.
What I love most (versus my old 3000W Champion which I've since sold) aside from the quieter operation is the fact that it's much more portable. It's still heavy but luggable, so the ability to position the generator on a long cord in the least-offensive position (versus the Champ which was a PITA to move around so just lived in my truck bed all the time) means that it's possible to "point the noise away" from an area.
My son just bought the HW2000i at HD yesterday for $299. In checking the manual, it says "Generator must be grounded to prevent electrical shock from faulty appliances...Before using the generator, connect a copper wire (minimum 14AWG) from the ground terminal to an earth ground." No mention is made of the need for grounding in my Honda 2000i manual. Is this really necessary, or is it just a generic warning?
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