Well, things were going good with our i2000 until this evening. It had been running for about 8 hours and suddenly quit. I assumed it had run out of fuel as I wasn't paying much attention to it and expected it to quit around the 8-10 hour mark anyways.
I checked the gas level when I finally did get around to (trying to) restart it and although it was low, the tank wasn't "dry". I just assumed that because it might not have been sitting perfectly level the draw line might have sucked air.
I filled it up and proceeded to start it. I figured the lines were dry so I primed the bejesus out of it and choked it but it refused to start. Eventually it started to lope a bit like it was trying to start but it wouldn't catch and actually take off.
Eventually I pulled the plug thinking I had perhaps flooded it at that point, but it was still dry.
Replaced plug, pulled off rear panel and checked carb to see if there was fuel at the bowl. Sure enough all looked good, but more pulling yielded the same results.
So, on a whim I manually moved the throttle servo while my BIL was pulling on the cord and it started to show more signs of life, eventually starting up.
However, something seems awry - the throttle control servo just kept slowly ramping the engine up to wide open, and the "Output" light never came on signifying the generator was making power. I played with the throttle manually trying to see if I could get it to settle down and initialize, but eventually it just stopped responding at all.
Now it's all back together but the throttle control is doing nothing (it's barely above idle at it's current setting) and it's making no power.
Thankfully my brother in law has a nice Kipor that we plugged into for the evening to top up the house batteries as it's going to be near freezing tonight and we're relying on the furnace..and no gennies allowed overnight here where we're boondocking.
Guess I get to see how the Honeywell service experience goes for me.
I too have thought of adding insulation, actually I was going to use Pig Mat Absorbent material. It is very thin yet fibrous. I was going to use silicon (RTV) to glue it to the plastic interior. That way I could remove it cleanly if it doesn't work out. I am afraid of overheating but I suppose as long as the air vents are open I should be OK.
Private Pilot,
Let us know how you make out.
Mine has been OK. I have to prime the hell out of it to start it and it does wander at idle, but it performs OK when I load it up.
So far I think it is great for 299.00 but it sure don't start or run like my HONDA !!
22R wrote: I too have thought of adding insulation, actually I was going to use Pig Mat Absorbent material. It is very thin yet fibrous. I was going to use silicon (RTV) to glue it to the plastic interior. That way I could remove it cleanly if it doesn't work out. I am afraid of overheating but I suppose as long as the air vents are open I should be OK.
Private Pilot,
Let us know how you make out.
Mine has been OK. I have to prime the hell out of it to start it and it does wander at idle, but it performs OK when I load it up.
So far I think it is great for 299.00 but it sure don't start or run like my HONDA !!
Later,
22R
Ive been working on 8 of these and the primer/primer bulb/fuel set up is quite a joke. The bulb when pushed will barley shoot gas into the carb bowl it is very weak. You need to prime that thing so many times.Were going to try and use a primer bulb that will shoot gas through the line where the fuel filter line is and see what happens. The rest of the generator is pretty good especially the engine with over head cam and timming chain. BUT the fuel system on these are very weak, deff the weak link here.
I just got back from camping this past week for a 6 day camp trip. I used the 2000i for 36 hours with three full tanks of gas. It really sips the gas!
This is a great generator!
We used is it mainly for running the Microwave and keeping the batteries charged on three different trailers. It runs well and is very quiet!
The only knock I have with mine is the weight of it and it can be a bear to start. I have to prime mine 10 times and 5 to 10 pulls to get it to start.
m first one, usually started on the first pull, and was still that way even after the inverter quit.
the replacement starts on the second or 3rd pull on a cold start
warms starts avg 1/2 -3/4 choke 1 pull
cold start dry tank takes 10 or so pushes of the prime button, ( manual says 25 ) the prime button is NOT like a marine primer that goes direct to the carb, the prime button on the HW is an AUX vacuum and operates the fuel pump, thats why it takes a bunch of pushes to prime the carb, thats normal for a empty tank dry carb 'fill & start'
I try not to let mine run till empty, but to refill around 6 hr's of runtime before its empty.
for those that are hard to start, check the prime button, see if it might be loose or if the rubber is cracked, the plastic lock nut/ring holds it all together and will suck air if its loose or if the bulb is cracked
if you open it to examine it, watch out for flying springs and plastic parts.
if the bulb is cracked, call and get it to a service center so they can replace it, neglecting this can cause engine damage as it sucks air into the intake manifold and makes the mixture lean and the engine HOT.
Options, always have options, and the journey goes much smoother ....
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Im not sure if were thinking of the same place but if you take the side compartment off and look at the carb, on the side, alittle above the bowl to the right a bit, there is a little hole there that goes to the bowl i think, when running and priming the gas will shoot out of it.Runs great but shoots gas out, i put my finger over the hole with the gas shooting out and the gen would run rough. Now i cant seem to get it started again.
* This post was
edited 09/22/09 10:00am by 83trekker *
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