83trekker wrote: The gen has compression, good spark, the bowl is full of gas but wont start no matter how many times you pull it.
This is the same thing that happened to mine when it died - I pulled for 20 minutes (thinking the fuel lines had ran dry and wouldn't prime thanks to the laughably bad priming system on it) and then I discovered that it was actually the controller board that had went dumb and it had reduced the throttle to below idle.
I manually advanced the throttle and it started right up, but of course, had no output and zero control over itself at that point.
Try manually advancing the throttle and see if perhaps you have the same issue?
Well. someone showed me this post as I was thinking about buying one of these. I found them at $299. While I'd rather have the Honda because it's a well known name and is quieter, I like the fact that this one is 2000w instead of 1600w.
For the price ($299) compared to the $1k price of a EU2000i, I can handle this being a little higher on the noise level.
Have a few questions that I didn't see answered in this thread.
1.) Has anyone figured out how to attach an external fuel tank? Did you do it with a tapped gas cap or a splitter/valve switch on the fuel line?
2.) Anyone attached an hour meter to it? (so you can keep track of useage?)
michael_210 wrote: 1.) Has anyone figured out how to attach an external fuel tank? Did you do it with a tapped gas cap or a splitter/valve switch on the fuel line?
The former was suggested to me when I brought it up earlier, but the latter would seem to be the easier so long as a primer bulb was inline to the "T" joint to make sure all air is out of the line.
michael_210 wrote: 2.) Anyone attached an hour meter to it? (so you can keep track of useage?)
Simple, just wire it into any +12V grounded source, a convenient source of which is on the 12V charging port.
if you want to verify the problem is related to the fuel system, pull the spark plug and put a half dozen or so drops of gas in the cylinder, then put the plug back in and give a tug.
If the problem is fuel related, then it'll start a bit and run and die. If it doesn't start at all, then it's electrical. If it tries to start and sputters then it's fuel related.
Old & Slow wrote: I wrote to a man by the name of 'China Dave' @ Allexperts.com and ask this question. "Are the engines on most new Chinese Inverter gensets from a past Honda design"? The answer was 'yes'.~ Are they out of the same factory with same quality, I don't think so. We can all ask are the K/O's equal to one with the name of Honda on the the genset? Is the Honeywell a close copy? Maybe some one will put them side by side and give a full report?
When i tore one of mine right dowm, i was impressed with the engine on the honeywell overhead cam, timining chain, but the whole fuel system is the weak link IMHO.
On another note;
The gen has compression, good spark, the bowl is full of gas but wont start no matter how many times you pull it. What can it be? If theres gas in the bowl can it still need more?
I went again to 'allexperts.com' and keyed in 'small engine repair and then, GX200 for a starting point. I do like 'china dave' but here is what I found in other postings that confirmed what happened to me. I could not get my Champion to start one day. I read, it could be the plug. The plug from the factory looked okay to me. Anyway I took the plug to the auto parts (advance)store, they matched it up with a 'Autolite' plug. Installed it and bingo. Second pull she fired up and to this day runs better than ever. Also read the 'carbs' are a known problem. Needle valves easy to stick or clog. One poster noted, he sometimes just taps the carb to free the needle valve. Not saying the Chinese engines are not of good quality BUT then again, they're not Honda quality but a great price. Has anyone ever put a Honda carb on a Chinese Honda k/o engine?
* This post was
edited 09/28/09 10:25am by Old & Slow *
Good news is that the warranty service center called and said my Honeywell 2000 was ready for pickup.
Better news was that Honeywell provided a brand new unit as a replacement. Apparently the inverter unit was the problem on my old one and replacement was cheaper then repair.
So, I got it home, fueled and oiled it up, and then got the bad news.
First, I noticed metal shavings on the oil drain plug. Not a huge quantity, probably leftovers from machining, but one must wonder how many shavings are actually in the crankcase.
Second, I thought that I'd remove the spark arrestor before ever having started the generator (and it would be presuambly easy to remove) to investigate the possibility of adding an "after muffler" to quiet the unit more. I quickly discovered that one screw was cross threaded from the factory and I was going to strip the head off of it if I continued to try to remove it.
And last but not least, after startup I was dissapointed to not only discover that the brand new unit has the "wandering idle at zero load" issue (albeit a bit less dramatic) that my original unit had, but was leaving a puddle of fuel underneath itself.
I removed the rear access panel and discovered fuel leaking out of a hole at the top of the carberator. I'm confident that this is the exact same issue that someone was inquiring about earlier in this thread. Looking at things it almost looks like the carb was machined incorrectly or something is missing. Placing my finger over the hole immediately stalled the generator and it acted as if it was flooded afterwards and wouldn't restart.
I gave up at that point, put the panel back on, and it's going back to the warranty depot again today.
Clearly there is some quality control issues on these units.
Here's a pic of the location of the fuel leak - the red arrow points the hole where fuel is exiting the carb. You can see where it's run down the carb and onto the primer button and fuel lines below.
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