This question has probably been addressed many times, but I didn't find anything in my search (might not be looking for the right ones). Has anybody ever changed out their rear axles to get a different axle ratio...say from 3.55 to 4.10 for a Dodge Ram 2500? Is it duable...expensive...worth it? We are pulling a 2008 Keystone Cougar 31ft. TT (has two slides) with our 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel crew cab 4x4 and are having trouble on some of the mountain roads. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. We really would like to upgrade to a larger truck, but don't know if we could swing the cost.
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2002 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 diesel
2008 30 ft Keystone Cougar
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You do not need to change axles. Only the ring and pinion gears need to be changed. Many suspension shops can do this, as can your Dodge dealer (but the smaller shops will charge less).
Bryan
2000 Ford E350 DRW Wagon (14-pass all captains chairs)
V10 w/ Banks PowerPack, Diablo Predator, 4.56 LS, 250,000+ miles
Had: Weekend Warrior 41' FSW
Dxpensive ? depends on how you look at it. It's cheaper than a new truck-yes it is doable. you would probably need to re calibrate the computer, speedometer, etc. a good shop should be aware of what is necessary. Take it to one of them and get an estimate.
I did it years ago to a Ford 4x4, the project was pretty straightforward and not difficult. To buy the parts and have a competent shop(go independent shop that specializes in this field) will probably cost you $1,000 to $1500 per axle. So double that for a 4x4. I think changing differential axle ratio gives you the best bang for the buck when addressing the need for increased towing ability. If the truck doesn't have it or it has some miles on it, would be a good time to install a quality locking/limited slip unit to the rear axle. And refill them with synthetic oil.
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With a 4X4 the cost will be double that of a RWD only. Figure roughly 1500 dollars an axle. First question I would ask, is are you sure about the 3.55 rear end? Second question is, are you running stock size tires? Third question is, stick or automatic? Most dodge Cummins owners will tell you that you do not need to gear down, but rather shift down and let the Cummins run. What is the RPM when you are pulling the hill in question? And at what road speed?
If I were you, I'd invest in an Edge EZ ($450) or a Hypertech Power programmer ($350) before spending $3000 to change two sets of ring and pinion gears. If you have the skill to change your own oil, you can install the Edge module. It takes 5 minutes, two plug in connections. Obviously you can run a computer since you're posting here, so I KNOW you can use the Hypertech programmer. The Edge EZ will require that you install a pyrometer probe in the exhaust manifold to monitor EGT, the Hypertech does not. Both have 3 settings. I ran the Edge on high until I added the higher hp injectors, then I ran it on level 2.
I had just that as my previous truck. A 2002 Dodge/Cummins 2500 with an Edge EZ and a 4" exhaust. It pulled the TT in my sig (which sounds very similar to your) effortlessly. I later added RV275 injectors to the mix ($800 installed at a local diesel shop). That added another 40hp & 80tq, and made it have the same hp and tq as the new trucks. Note my 2002 also had 3.55 gears.
You will not be dissappointed - trust me.
READ THIS for more info. Note that the Edge module they test here is not the EZ, it is the higher/hotter "Juice with attitude". The "EZ" module I speak of is more made for towing, not racing.
donn0128 wrote: With a 4X4 the cost will be double that of a RWD only. Figure roughly 1500 dollars an axle. First question I would ask, is are you sure about the 3.55 rear end? Second question is, are you running stock size tires? Third question is, stick or automatic? Most dodge Cummins owners will tell you that you do not need to gear down, but rather shift down and let the Cummins run. What is the RPM when you are pulling the hill in question? And at what road speed?
Yeah, I'd think that if he doesn't have a 4:10 rearend in that Cummins powered P.U. he would most likely have the 3:73, which is good enough unless your really hauling/towing at the limit.
3:73's were standard with a trailer/camper option on the later Cummins/Dodge P.U.'s.
Regards, Eightballsidepocket
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT 4x2 Quad Cab, Cummins, 48RE Tranny, Lg Bed, Line-X Spray-on Bed Liner.
06 T25BS Komfort Trailblazer TT
"If you can't say it in person, it isn't worth saying while hiding behind an anonymous P.C.!"
Here's a dyno chart for an otherwise stock 2002 Dodge/Cummins truck with the Edge EZ installed, tested on all 3 levels. Torque gains are not shown here, but they are generally about 2x the hp gain...if you gain 40hp, you gain ~80tq.
In the chart here, you can see that stock, the truck made 212hp at the rear wheels. With the Edge module installed, it makes ~250hp at the rear wheels. 38hp peak gain, and likley about 75 - 100tq gained. It makes a big difference.
The bottom line is stock, then levels 1, 2, and 3 are the higher curves.
Here is a chart for the Rv275 injectors. They are the purple line, second to the bottom. The bottom line is stock. The other lines are progressively more agressive injectors made by an aftermarket company. The RV275 injectors are factory bosch injectors for the 5.9L Cummins 24 valve engine, but they are installed when the engine is used in a diesel pusher motorhome.
You can see the RV injectors were good for a ~30hp gain at the rear wheels on that particular truck.
donn0128 wrote: With a 4X4 the cost will be double that of a RWD only. Figure roughly 1500 dollars an axle. First question I would ask, is are you sure about the 3.55 rear end? Second question is, are you running stock size tires? Third question is, stick or automatic? Most dodge Cummins owners will tell you that you do not need to gear down, but rather shift down and let the Cummins run. What is the RPM when you are pulling the hill in question? And at what road speed?
Yeah, I'd think that if he doesn't have a 4:10 rearend in that Cummins powered P.U. he would most likely have the 3:73, which is good enough unless your really hauling/towing at the limit.
3:73's were standard with a trailer/camper option on the later Cummins/Dodge P.U.'s.
In the 1998 - 2002 trucks, 3.55 were standard, 4.10 was optional. 3.73 was not an option until 2003 when they moved from Dana Axles to AAM axles. Then, 3.73 was standard, and 4.10 was the option again.
donn0128 wrote: With a 4X4 the cost will be double that of a RWD only. Figure roughly 1500 dollars an axle. First question I would ask, is are you sure about the 3.55 rear end? Second question is, are you running stock size tires? Third question is, stick or automatic? Most dodge Cummins owners will tell you that you do not need to gear down, but rather shift down and let the Cummins run. What is the RPM when you are pulling the hill in question? And at what road speed?
Yeah, I'd think that if he doesn't have a 4:10 rearend in that Cummins powered P.U. he would most likely have the 3:73, which is good enough unless your really hauling/towing at the limit.
3:73's were standard with a trailer/camper option on the later Cummins/Dodge P.U.'s.
In the 1998 - 2002 trucks, 3.55 were standard, 4.10 was optional. 3.73 was not an option until 2003 when they moved from Dana Axles to AAM axles. Then, 3.73 was standard, and 4.10 was the option again.
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