Fellas, Fellas, what works for one truck driver isn't going to work for the next.
It always going to be that way. Honestly, I could give a******about what the next guy has or don't have in his truck, all I care is what's in mine or how safe my family is going to be coming down a 6% grade with nasty curves. If a driver chooses not to be responsible with his equipment, bad brakes, balled tires, over weight, small mirrors, ENGINE BRAKE or NO ENGINE BRAKE, or just has a few too many and causes an accident or hits me, I will be more than happy to take a bite out of his insurance companies rear end.
You don't have to have an engine brake to pull these kind of weights nor is it a requirement, but my trucks (3500 and 4500) both have them and its a fact that it is safer coming down the passes we travel and saves on my service brakes both truck and trailer brakes. Also don't have to poke along in low gear with my tach pushing redline to hold me back on Wolf Creek pass, or use a turnout to let my brakes cool off!
Hope to see you out on the road, not piled up in the ditch!
Steve
2008 Keystone Raptor 299MP
2009 Dodge 4500 HD 4X4, 6 Speed Auto, 6.7 Cummins, 4.44 Ratio
2000 Dodge 3500 4x4, 6 SPD Man. 5.9 Cummins,(My Old Puller)
1990 Dodge 2500 4x4 5.9 Cummins (Stock)
Love the Cummins!!!
2007 Harley Davidson Softtail Custom (Money Pit)
well, well, well. you folks need a refresher course? ok here goes
you can go down a grade too slow 1 million times, but you'll only go down a grade too fast once.
in the course of driving often you will come across the occasional steep grade. the technique that best suits successful navigation of such a grade follows:
if the operator is familiar with the grade choose a safe speed (we'll use 35mph) and allow your vehicle speed to increase in 5 mph increments (to 40mph) then apply stabbing brake pressure to decrease your speed back to the original 35mph. as your vehicle increases speed back to 40 due to the grade, you are allowing your brakes to cool. repeat this process until you reach the end of the grade.
if the operator is unfamiliar with the grade he/she is approaching choose the slowest speed within the law and incease speed appropriately using the technique prescribed above.
this technique is effective for all drivetrains and braking systems of working order.
if this technique sounds familiar to you thats because it works. if its not familiar to you, you should try it once. IT WORKS.
The Ironworker and His Conscience
2008 MegaCab Hemi
2001 Sun-Lite SkyHawk PU TC
2008 Dodge 2500 CTD - The Time Machine
haveTCwillboondockUS wrote: well, well, well. you folks need a refresher course? ok here goes
you can go down a grade too slow 1 million times, but you'll only go down a grade too fast once.
in the course of driving often you will come across the occasional steep grade. the technique that best suits successful navigation of such a grade follows:
if the operator is familiar with the grade choose a safe speed (we'll use 35mph) and allow your vehicle speed to increase in 5 mph increments (to 40mph) then apply stabbing brake pressure to decrease your speed back to the original 35mph. as your vehicle increases speed back to 40 due to the grade, you are allowing your brakes to cool. repeat this process until you reach the end of the grade.
if the operator is unfamiliar with the grade he/she is approaching choose the slowest speed within the law and incease speed appropriately using the technique prescribed above.
this technique is effective for all drivetrains and braking systems of working order.
if this technique sounds familiar to you thats because it works. if its not familiar to you, you should try it once. IT WORKS.
Bringing this forward for you www.jackbrake.com just in case you want to try something new
haveTCwillboondockUS wrote: well, well, well. you folks need a refresher course? ok here goes
you can go down a grade too slow 1 million times, but you'll only go down a grade too fast once.
in the course of driving often you will come across the occasional steep grade. the technique that best suits successful navigation of such a grade follows:
if the operator is familiar with the grade choose a safe speed (we'll use 35mph) and allow your vehicle speed to increase in 5 mph increments (to 40mph) then apply stabbing brake pressure to decrease your speed back to the original 35mph. as your vehicle increases speed back to 40 due to the grade, you are allowing your brakes to cool. repeat this process until you reach the end of the grade.
if the operator is unfamiliar with the grade he/she is approaching choose the slowest speed within the law and incease speed appropriately using the technique prescribed above.
this technique is effective for all drivetrains and braking systems of working order.
if this technique sounds familiar to you thats because it works. if its not familiar to you, you should try it once. IT WORKS.
This isn't needed to often if you have an EB. If you aren't sure who is running them it will be us guys passing you at 55+ down the grade and never touching the brakes. No stabbing involved
~DJ~ wrote: I would like to see those without auxiliary brakes come down grades like this relaxing with the cruise set!!
This is coming back out of one of my favorite fishing spots. Believe me the pic does not do it justice. Those curves are 15 mph max!!
I can see where interstate cruisers may not feel the need for engine braking but when your standing on your nose in the middle of tight twisties you just may change your mind.
Your comments are EXACTLY how I felt when coming down Slumgullion Pass to Lake City, Colorado two summers ago. It changed my mind enough to not even attempt Monarch Pass. We went around it. Using the Ford trans tow/haul feature, I was using way too much foot brake on Slum. It is a mass of 15 mph turns and a steep angle of descent. With my 16,000 lb Montego Bay behind my 2007 PSD dually, I really felt undermatched. I needed MORE, MUCH MORE braking capability. We are not going west again until I get an exhaust brake installed. Period.
Joe
2008 Dodge Laramie 5500 C&C 4x4 with CM hauler bed
32k EZ Floater Hitch Crafter air ride hitch
2007 KZ Montego Bay 36 REB-3 38ft 11in. 5th Wheeler
you wont be passn me, look at my sig, i got the EB!
and i still use safe braking practices. ask an old timer truck driver if he ever had a Jake Brake fail. it happens. if it happens to me i'll still be safe.
you wont be passn me, look at my sig, i got the EB!
and i still use safe braking practices. ask an old timer truck driver if he ever had a Jake Brake fail. it happens. if it happens to me i'll still be safe.
I'll be just fine. Never had an EB till my 06 mega cab. Used to drive an old 66 chevy 4x4 with drum brakes. Trust me, you name it I'll drive it. Oh, And I will pass you, up the hill or down.....
Doznfire,
I bow in your general direction. Lol. Heck of a truck. A bit of over kill for my little 22 but maybe if I got money to throw away. Shoot, I think I can just load my 22 ON the back of your truck and drive it that way.
Joezilla,
Glad you are a conservative thinking/planning driver. Drive the safest set up possible. Good on ya for thinking ahead.
Thanks Oldtrucks, even though you unsubscribed. lol.
surveyorjp,
Thanks for clearing up the different years of transmissions. I read that the 45RFE was the replacement for the 48RE which is what I have. So I assumed that meant it came in the year after my truck. That was just an assumption but that was not the case? Thanks.
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