Not enough info to draw any conclusions. Start with the charger. If it doesn't have the charge wizzard, get one. Second, do the consumption thing to figure out what's going on. I have two Group 27's (105 AH each). Figure that gives about 50 AH until they shouldn't be discharged any more. What's running? When recharged for how long? For me, I'm usually good for at least 3 days between charges because I'm mostly not there using them. If I'm running the heater, mostly its good for 2 nights and 3 days (not running heater during the days). You need to figure what your usage is like, but if you went 6 days and then charged less than one hour, I see the problem.....
Anyhow, a Honda eui2000 is terrific. Will run a Polar Cub AC in most any conditions. Will start larger units when its not too hot!
There is no way your TV usage is the problem. Hook up an ammeter between the battery and the camper connection to the battery and I bet you see lots of current flowing. Then you can start disconnecting things until you find the culprit. You can also get an idea what things like lights actually take.
For me it was the propane and CO2 detectors that would kill a fully charged battery over a few days in the driveway not connected to shore power. Those are no longer connected - my nose is the propane detector and I crack a window if I'm using anything that consumes O2.
An automatic fridge can also be thirsty. Kids leaving lights on can also be a big problem. Watching a movie should not have much impact.
Checked my batteries yesterday and they are small, I will replace those first and recycle to my small boat. I am ordering the charge wizard as soon as i remove plate to see what carger/converter i have in my lance. Thanks all!!
Checked my batteries yesterday and they are small, I will replace those first and recycle to my small boat. I am ordering the charge wizard as soon as i remove plate to see what carger/converter i have in my lance. Thanks all!!
Fish
It may or may not be easer to check that fine owners manual Lance supplys with their campers. It will contain a factory owners manual for which ever converter is installed. It may even tell you if the charge wizard is installed on the converter.
FYI - I know that some fo the units have an external plug-in charge wizard, but the 45 amp unit that I purchased has the charge wizard incorporated into the unit. The "pendant" can be added to view status and set charge mode, etc.
Btw, don't run your fridge on the batteries.
By accident my wife put the fridge on electrical without having the camper plugged into electricity. Next morning no power at all. :-(
(I guess she forgot we have two propane bottles, lol)
I have two Group 27 Lifeline AGM batteries. If you're upgrading your batteries going with AGM type is something to consider. They cost a lot, but I like the maintenance free aspect and they will take a lot of amperage while charging, recharging much faster, but you need a good converter/charger - as others have already said, your charging equipment is at least as important as your battery type, if not more so.
Half the battle is knowing what is going on with your charging system. Depending on indicator lights is useless and a voltmeter is too limited. Invest in a real battery monitor. I installed a Trimetric monitor, Xantrex models are also popular.
As for the AC, my Honda 2000 will run my 11,000 BTU Dometic, but it struggles a bit, obviously at the limit of its capacity. All my camping is in the Northeast US, I hardly ever use the AC. If I were in a warmer climate where I depended on having AC I'd want more reserve capacity for it, either combining two 2000s or a 3000 generator.
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