The setup looks fantastic...... other than the factory hitch windup. I have yet to see a 1/2 ton truck that doesn't wind up to a certain extent. The only fix is to replace the factory receiver with an aftermarket one. Most I have seen, compensate for this with extra washers in the head. It will eventually get worse and you will be replacing the receiver anyway. If you do replace the factory receiver with a different one, you will need to adjust your hitch again. You will most likely only need 5 or 6 washers to get the same attitude you have now.
04 Lariat Supercrew 4x4,5.4,3.73, Edge tuner, flowmaster duals
06 Trail Bay 31BH, nicely optioned
Equal-i-zer
Prodigy
Follow vehicle, 05 KIA Sorento EX for the golden retrievers.
I ended up doing similar... after years of towing, I finally took the time to really look at my hitch, and I ended up re-adjusting it a lot, and towing is much nicer now.
I also noticed what looks like an odd up angle on your receiver hitch, or is that just the angle the picture was taken?
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2008 F-250 CrewCab 5.4L,
2004 21' Forest River Surveyor
First is that the goal is to have a finished setup (fully loaded and adjusted)
with the trailer pointed slightly down and at its highest pointing,
level. With enough weight transferred (distributed) from the TV's
rear axle over to the TV's front axle to maintain it's unloaded
steering geometry and enough traction on the front tires to handle
and brake.
How you get there is what most recommendations are and since there are tons of
adjustments that over lap each other, there is no one or absolute 'fix'.
How many links, washers, amount of head tilt, WD bar ratings, etc, etc, etc. Sure
they all address a single component of the total adjustment.
Your TVs receiver is bending up and assume from the WD. If it is that way normally
and didn't bend, then another matter.
If it is bending up from level, then it is consuming WD Bar forces. This will
also create a potential for bouncing or porpoising as the setup goes over uneven
pavement.
GM started this 'el cheapo' receiver thing, and see that other OEMs are following
the trend to ignore or penny pinch those who use their trucks as they were
originally designed for decades ago...instead of the fashion statement crowd
which now drive the OEM designs.
For a traditional designed and stouter receiver, it cost around $150 bucks
and about an hour labor.
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
I have the same trailer and have more space between my bars and TT frame with 6 washers, nice and level though, I do have a different TV. I would have some concern with the angle of the reciever.
Ron Lori and Autumn TV 2007 GMC 2500HD CC 6.6 D/A (new to us) TT 2008 Jayflight G2 23FB/ Equal-i-zer WD
Honestly, looking at the weights you list, I've thinking you don't even need a WD hitch. 700# tongue weight is pretty low, and if that was measured at the jack and not the hitch ball it would be slightly lower. I'd be looking to adjust the weight balance of the trailer a bit to get those 200# or so shifted back and dispense with the extra work of dealing with a WD setup when hitching and unhitching. Normal non WD ratings are 500/5000 and it appears you could readily get the balance within that.
wp6529 wrote: Honestly, looking at the weights you list, I've thinking you don't even need a WD hitch. 700# tongue weight is pretty low, and if that was measured at the jack and not the hitch ball it would be slightly lower. I'd be looking to adjust the weight balance of the trailer a bit to get those 200# or so shifted back and dispense with the extra work of dealing with a WD setup when hitching and unhitching. Normal non WD ratings are 500/5000 and it appears you could readily get the balance within that.
That is blasphemy and will undoubtedly get you flamed, but I agree with the first sentence.
Without the WDH, he only had 1 1/2" of squat.....hardly needing of a WDH. With the WDH he now has more weight on the front axle than the rear axle which is completely backwards loading of a pickup. That can easily be fixed by releasing some of the tension on the spring bars.
So to answer the question posed in this thread; It looks like you have too much weight being placed on the front axle.
smkettner wrote: A load of bikes, cooler, firewood in the bed will make it perfect. JMHO.
A load of bikes and a bundle of firewood on a carrier at the back of the trailer would indeed and you could dispense with the hassle of the WD hitch and it's spring bars
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