As you may be aware, there is currently a discussion going on about the proper use of trailer safety chains and the length of the breakaway cable. This got me to thinking about something that is repeated over and over in literature as well as on this site. That is that the safety chains should be crossed and of such a length that they will cradle the trailer in the event that the trailer separates from the hitch.
So my challenge to all you travel trailer owners. (And this is all in good fun; please don't start any arguments over it.)
Somebody post a picture of a trailer tongue disconnected from the tow vehicle but cradled off the ground by the chains.
Personally I don't think this is possible. I think that the manufactures and or law makers spout this line as a general CYA. Somebody prove me wrong.
The conditions are
1) The chains must be long enough that you can actually drive and pull the trailer normally if hitched. In other words we all know that a chain that is 2 links long will support the tongue, but you couldn't hitch up and pull with the chain that short.
2) It is ok to allow the tongue (possibly the jack post) to contact the rear bumper as it probably will anyway once you smash on the brakes.
3) The trailer wheels must be able to roll freely. In other words you can't lock the brakes and pull the tow vehicle forward until the chains lift the tongue.
4) If you try but are unable to succeed you must post this fact so we know that people are at least trying.
I'm going to try in a few weeks when I pull my trailer home, but I don't believe I will succeed. Hopefully a few others will try as well.
Thanks
1996 Suburban 4x4. 350 Vortec, 4.10 3/4 ton
2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH
1986 Coleman Columbia Popup.
opnspaces wrote: As you may be aware, there is currently a discussion going on about the proper use of trailer safety chains and the length of the breakaway cable. This got me to thinking about something that is repeated over and over in literature as well as on this site. That is that the safety chains should be crossed and of such a length that they will cradle the trailer in the event that the trailer separates from the hitch.
So my challenge to all you travel trailer owners. (And this is all in good fun; please don't start any arguments over it.)
Somebody post a picture of a trailer tongue disconnected from the tow vehicle but cradled off the ground by the chains.
Personally I don't think this is possible. I think that the manufactures and or law makers spout this line as a general CYA. Somebody prove me wrong.
The conditions are
1) The chains must be long enough that you can actually drive and pull the trailer normally if hitched. In other words we all know that a chain that is 2 links long will support the tongue, but you couldn't hitch up and pull with the chain that short. Chains are not supposed to be hooked on just the way they are, you're supposed to twist the chains to get them to the correct lenth to allow the tow vehicle to turn, and allow the tongue of the trailer to fall on without falling to the ground.
2) It is ok to allow the tongue (possibly the jack post) to contact the rear bumper as it probably will anyway once you smash on the brakes. The breakaway cable must also be set in proper lenth that in an event that it does come disconnected from the tow vehicle the brakes will be applied. If the trailer brakes are applied the tongue won't contact the rear bumper.
3) The trailer wheels must be able to roll freely. In other words you can't lock the brakes and pull the tow vehicle forward until the chains lift the tongue. Read answer #1
4) If you try but are unable to succeed you must post this fact so we know that people are at least trying. I've done it and I know my trailer tongue will not hit the ground.
I'm going to try in a few weeks when I pull my trailer home, but I don't believe I will succeed. Hopefully a few others will try as well. If you do it the way I explained in answer #1 you'll see that the chains will infact be able to support the tongue of the trailer without hitting the ground.
Thanks
The only downfall is if you have a cheap hitch and the rings that hold the chainsnaps are rotted or thin.
Been there, done that. It was a 3,400lb sailboat trailer but I'll guarantee that it works. I've posted this same situation multiple times on this forum.
It is 1992, 4:30am on I-20just East of Vicksburg, MS. We had raced the boat in Jackson from Sunday to Thursday and were returning to the Dallas area. We left Jackson around 3:30am. There was a thunk and that was the ball pulling up out of the receiver because the nut had come off the bottom. I had the safety chains cross-laced under the tongue. The chains had been carefully sized to be able to catch the trailer tongue - and they did.
An important point - you shouldn't ever mash the brake under those conditions. I let up on the gas slowly until I felt the boat make contact with the back of our TV (a van) and then slowly applied the brakes, guiding the rig off to the shoulder. The only damage was to the driver's side rear door on the van where the steel channel under the boat winch made contact. We disconnected, found an all night auto parts store, bought a new ball, ran back I-20 to get to the previous exit and get back to the boat and then recoupled. Total elapsed time 45 minutes.
We still have the van and a similar sailboat - with exactly the same safety chain setup. I could re-create the tongue lying on the safety chains.
chasfm11 wrote: ---We still have the van and a similar sailboat - with exactly the same safety chain setup. I could re-create the tongue lying on the safety chains.
It would be great if you could re-create the setup and post a photo.
I assume you were not using a weight distribution hitch. When a WD hitch is used, the chains usually must be somewhat longer than for a non-WD hitch.
Also, the tongue weight for a boat on a trailer usually is quite a bit less than for a travel trailer. More tongue weight would tend to pull down more on the back of the tow vehicle.
opnspaces wrote: As you may be aware, there is currently a discussion going on about the proper use of trailer safety chains and the length of the breakaway cable. This got me to thinking about something that is repeated over and over in literature as well as on this site. That is that the safety chains should be crossed and of such a length that they will cradle the trailer in the event that the trailer separates from the hitch.
So my challenge to all you travel trailer owners. (And this is all in good fun; please don't start any arguments over it.)
Somebody post a picture of a trailer tongue disconnected from the tow vehicle but cradled off the ground by the chains.
Personally I don't think this is possible. I think that the manufactures and or law makers spout this line as a general CYA. Somebody prove me wrong.
The conditions are
1) The chains must be long enough that you can actually drive and pull the trailer normally if hitched. In other words we all know that a chain that is 2 links long will support the tongue, but you couldn't hitch up and pull with the chain that short. Chains are not supposed to be hooked on just the way they are, you're supposed to twist the chains to get them to the correct lenth to allow the tow vehicle to turn, and allow the tongue of the trailer to fall on without falling to the ground.
2) It is ok to allow the tongue (possibly the jack post) to contact the rear bumper as it probably will anyway once you smash on the brakes. The breakaway cable must also be set in proper lenth that in an event that it does come disconnected from the tow vehicle the brakes will be applied. If the trailer brakes are applied the tongue won't contact the rear bumper.
3) The trailer wheels must be able to roll freely. In other words you can't lock the brakes and pull the tow vehicle forward until the chains lift the tongue. Read answer #1
4) If you try but are unable to succeed you must post this fact so we know that people are at least trying. I've done it and I know my trailer tongue will not hit the ground.
I'm going to try in a few weeks when I pull my trailer home, but I don't believe I will succeed. Hopefully a few others will try as well. If you do it the way I explained in answer #1 you'll see that the chains will infact be able to support the tongue of the trailer without hitting the ground.
Thanks
The only downfall is if you have a cheap hitch and the rings that hold the chainsnaps are rotted or thin.
According to at least this trailer manufacturer and my feelings as well on twisting your safety chains ... BAD IDEA
Quote: Safety Chains
Safety Chains are an important back up plan in the unlikely event that your trailer was ever to come unhitched from your truck but only if they are used correctly. When attaching safety chains be sure to criss cross the chains once. This will allow the safety chains to cradle the coupler in the event of a decoupling event. It is imperative that you do not twist the chains. There is a common misconception that you can twist your safety chains to shorten them and make them fit your rig. This will dramatically weaken your safety chain and will make them likely to break in a decoupling situation. Make sure you select safety chains that are the correct size and are rated for the GVWR of your trailer.
opnspaces wrote: As you may be aware, there is currently a discussion going on about the proper use of trailer safety chains and the length of the breakaway cable. This got me to thinking about something that is repeated over and over in literature as well as on this site. That is that the safety chains should be crossed and of such a length that they will cradle the trailer in the event that the trailer separates from the hitch.
So my challenge to all you travel trailer owners. (And this is all in good fun; please don't start any arguments over it.)
Somebody post a picture of a trailer tongue disconnected from the tow vehicle but cradled off the ground by the chains.
Personally I don't think this is possible. I think that the manufactures and or law makers spout this line as a general CYA. Somebody prove me wrong.
The conditions are
1) The chains must be long enough that you can actually drive and pull the trailer normally if hitched. In other words we all know that a chain that is 2 links long will support the tongue, but you couldn't hitch up and pull with the chain that short. Chains are not supposed to be hooked on just the way they are, you're supposed to twist the chains to get them to the correct lenth to allow the tow vehicle to turn, and allow the tongue of the trailer to fall on without falling to the ground.
2) It is ok to allow the tongue (possibly the jack post) to contact the rear bumper as it probably will anyway once you smash on the brakes. The breakaway cable must also be set in proper lenth that in an event that it does come disconnected from the tow vehicle the brakes will be applied. If the trailer brakes are applied the tongue won't contact the rear bumper.
3) The trailer wheels must be able to roll freely. In other words you can't lock the brakes and pull the tow vehicle forward until the chains lift the tongue. Read answer #1
4) If you try but are unable to succeed you must post this fact so we know that people are at least trying. I've done it and I know my trailer tongue will not hit the ground.
I'm going to try in a few weeks when I pull my trailer home, but I don't believe I will succeed. Hopefully a few others will try as well. If you do it the way I explained in answer #1 you'll see that the chains will infact be able to support the tongue of the trailer without hitting the ground.
Thanks
The only downfall is if you have a cheap hitch and the rings that hold the chainsnaps are rotted or thin.
Thanks for the post Rollincool,
On # 4, was the trailer able to freewheel or were the brakes on as in #3,1?
Also is the trailer contacting the tow vehicle or just cradled by the chains?
Thanks for the post Rollincool,
On # 4, was the trailer able to freewheel or were the brakes on as in #3,1?
Also is the trailer contacting the tow vehicle or just cradled by the chains?
They were on and off. When it actually happens, the breakaway cable catches and puts the brakes on. Then the trailer moves back forward a bit as you're slowing and they come back off. It's very tricky to actually get them to work just right because you don't know how you will react when your tongue falls and you know it.
The trailer tongue was bopping up against the reciever, I heard it loud and clear, and saw the marks on it.
I've been twisting my chains for years and never had one break as someone mentioned above. As a matter of fact, they were twisted when this trailer fell off. You're probably wondering why it fell off...DO NOT buy cheap balls. They snap as I found out the hard way.
Rollincool wrote: ...They were on and off. When it actually happens, the breakaway cable catches and puts the brakes on. Then the trailer moves back forward a bit ... and they come back off...
Guess I must be having a "Senior Moment" ... are there breakaway switches that, once the pin is pulled and locks the brakes, they then will allow the brakes to release?
opnspaces wrote: As you may be aware, there is currently a discussion going on about the proper use of trailer safety chains and the length of the breakaway cable. This got me to thinking about something that is repeated over and over in literature as well as on this site. That is that the safety chains should be crossed and of such a length that they will cradle the trailer in the event that the trailer separates from the hitch.
So my challenge to all you travel trailer owners. (And this is all in good fun; please don't start any arguments over it.)
Somebody post a picture of a trailer tongue disconnected from the tow vehicle but cradled off the ground by the chains.
Personally I don't think this is possible. I think that the manufactures and or law makers spout this line as a general CYA. Somebody prove me wrong.
The conditions are
1) The chains must be long enough that you can actually drive and pull the trailer normally if hitched. In other words we all know that a chain that is 2 links long will support the tongue, but you couldn't hitch up and pull with the chain that short. Chains are not supposed to be hooked on just the way they are, you're supposed to twist the chains to get them to the correct lenth to allow the tow vehicle to turn, and allow the tongue of the trailer to fall on without falling to the ground.
2) It is ok to allow the tongue (possibly the jack post) to contact the rear bumper as it probably will anyway once you smash on the brakes. The breakaway cable must also be set in proper lenth that in an event that it does come disconnected from the tow vehicle the brakes will be applied. If the trailer brakes are applied the tongue won't contact the rear bumper.
3) The trailer wheels must be able to roll freely. In other words you can't lock the brakes and pull the tow vehicle forward until the chains lift the tongue. Read answer #1
4) If you try but are unable to succeed you must post this fact so we know that people are at least trying. I've done it and I know my trailer tongue will not hit the ground.
I'm going to try in a few weeks when I pull my trailer home, but I don't believe I will succeed. Hopefully a few others will try as well. If you do it the way I explained in answer #1 you'll see that the chains will infact be able to support the tongue of the trailer without hitting the ground.
Thanks
The only downfall is if you have a cheap hitch and the rings that hold the chainsnaps are rotted or thin.
We are waiting for your pictures!
On my TT their is no way to cross the chains as they are both mounted to the same place on the TT.
At any rate for a TT to come off the ball on a typical TT with WD a whole lot of things would have to go wrong.Think about all of the steps to unhitch. Well all of those would some how have to happen on their own.
* This post was
edited 07/23/09 07:47pm by Huntindog *
Huntindog
2010 Palomino Sabre 30BHDS
2001 Silverado 3500 CC D/A
EQUALIZER Hitch
Juiced, K&N air filter
Banks 4" exhaust
100% BOONDOCKING
Check out Rusty and her pups at www.bluecollarbrittanys.com
Rollincool wrote: ...They were on and off. When it actually happens, the breakaway cable catches and puts the brakes on. Then the trailer moves back forward a bit ... and they come back off...
Guess I must be having a "Senior Moment" ... are there breakaway switches that, once the pin is pulled and locks the brakes, they then will allow the brakes to release?
No, no Senior Moment, I left out the fact that it was a boat trailer with surge brakes. They have a breakaway cable that is attached to a lever on the master cylinder.
My bad. I'm the one who had "the moment"
Offline
