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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > AC Thermostat not accurate

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dano73

new york

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Posted: 08/21/09 08:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When I got into my 5er today, I put the unit on cool and it started running as it always does. After about 20 min. I noticed the ducts didn't seem to be blowing cold air. I checked the thermostat and it was on 70 where I always leave it. Now it's been 90 here for the past week, so no way is it below 70 in here, but I noticed when I slid the thermostat colder I heard the compressor kick in at about 50.

Anybody have any idea of what's going on here, it seemed to be working fine yesterday.

lostmarbles

Sacramento, CA., USA

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Posted: 08/21/09 09:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Do you need to calibrate the thermostat?


We have all sort of links and Tech informations on our group wesite below. A lot of them from different forums including here, over the years. Feel free to browse and use.
CLICK HERE FOR CENTRAL/NORTHERN CAL RV'ER/BOAT GROUP.
Happy Camping!

tvman44

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Posted: 08/21/09 09:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That is why a lot of us have put in the digital thermostats like the Hunter from Wal Mart for $20.00, easy mod and so much more comfortable.


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FloridaNomad

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Posted: 08/22/09 06:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I don't know whats wrong with your thermostat, but would recommend that you consider replacing it using Les Adams modification write up. Just do a search on the Hunter thermostat digital upgrade or look under Les's profile. He is a moderator on this site. I just finished the mod on my trailer. It gives me a better control on my heating and A/C. Good luck.


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Dave H M

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Posted: 08/22/09 06:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dano

If you go digital, I recommend one that has an illuminated dial. getting the flashlight or turning on lights always irritated me with the last hunter I had. Never again.

dano73

new york

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Posted: 08/22/09 06:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the input guys but I think my problem might be a little deeper. Last nite the breaker in the trailer popped twice and shut the ac down, right now I'm just running the other unit, any ideas?

b_salgado

Salisbury ,NC,USA

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Posted: 08/22/09 07:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dano73 wrote:

Thanks for the input guys but I think my problem might be a little deeper. Last nite the breaker in the trailer popped twice and shut the ac down, right now I'm just running the other unit, any ideas?
Could be the start capacitor on that AC unit. You said the fan started and you could hear the compressor come on? If so, and the compressor is running, you might have a dead unit (no freon) You can verify this with an amperage reading of the compressor. If it kicked the breaker when trying to start, I would go straight to the capacitors. There are 2. One is start.... it is the smaller one. THe other is run, it is the larger one. You can have these tested or you can test them yourself if you have a good multi meter. Any electrical house that deals with AC parts will have them available and they can also test them for you. They are located under the top cover in a little box on the side of the housing. They are round. They will have several wires coming out of them, so make sure you make a diagram before you disconnect them. I hope this helps. How old is the unit? Manufacturer?


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dano73

new york

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Posted: 08/22/09 07:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks b salgado, I think you're on the right track. Like I said thecompressor would kick in if I dropped the temp setting to 50. The air blows cold but then popped the breaker sometime in the night. I noticed it did seem to struggle more than usual when the compressor would kick in lately.

It's a 2004 15k dometic unit. I'm guessing the capacitors are pricey? or should I replace them both. Thanks for your help.

b_salgado

Salisbury ,NC,USA

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Posted: 08/22/09 08:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The run capacitor is about $30. The start capacitor is not quite that much. Be careful when you remove them. They do store AC current and can shock you. Make sure you discharge them by shorting the terminals after power disconnect. I would bring them both with me and have them tested to make sure. If you have an ohm meter and know how to use it, you can download the repair manual online and it will give you the specifications on your unit and how to test each component.

dano73

new york

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Posted: 08/22/09 08:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks b salgado. How do I short the capacitor?

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