SoCalDesertRider wrote: I would keep the Dakota and drive that and use the big truck for towing and hauling and get the truck sized right for the trailer, which could mean a dually since you say you want a fifth wheel.
Why do you need a dually for a fifth wheel? What type of camper do you pull again?
Re-read what I said. I did not say a dually was needed. I said a dually MAY be needed, since he said he was thinking about a fifth wheel. Whether a dually is needed or not depends on the WEIGHT of the fifth wheel, specifically the PIN WEIGHT.
Some fifth wheels are too heavy for a single rear wheel truck to haul the hitch weight. Duallys have considerably more payload capacity to haul heavier trailers with heavier hitch weights.
If he gets a dually now, his trailer choices are wide open for the future, as he can pull MOST big fifth wheels out there, all except the absolutely HUGE ones that need a truck larger than a pickup.
If he gets a single rear wheel truck now, his trailer choices will be limited to what he can pull with the single rear wheel truck, which MAY not jive with what kind of trailer he wants. At that point, he's looking at upgrading the truck. Cheaper to buy the truck once rather than twice.
My campers were slide-in truck campers, when I had them. I sold mine. First one was 3000 lbs, hauled it on a GM dually. Second one was 2000 lbs, hauled it on my SRW F350.
My TV (2000 F250 4X4 7.3LPSD) is also a daily driver, though we tend to leave it at home when diesel prices go up. I've never felt uncomfortable driving it around town, and parking isn't all that bad if you find spots further away from the building. Yes, it probably costs about 2X as much to drive as my 4DR sedan with a 2.6L V6, but I also haven't had nearly as many pull out in front of me when I'm in the truck. It tends to get noticed a lot more than a small car. Like someone else said, I just enjoy driving the truck more too. There's just something about the noise of a diesel...
Thanks for the help so far. My biggest concern in buying is my modest budget of about 25,000 max. I have seen both Cummings and Durramax for sale in this range but I am wondering if buying this low on the food chain (around 2003-2005 with over 150,000 Km) would end up being lots of headache and expense. I know the engines (if treated properly) last a long long time but how about other things such as turbos, ball joints, fuel pumps, etc? When do these "older" trucks start to reach the end of their life cycle?
Thanks much for the comments - you are a very helpful bunch!
What you see in the picture has been my daily driver since 2004. I get around 14-15 in town. Oil changes will cost a bit more, but you can about double the interval milage, two batteries vs. one, and tires will cost a bit more.
Otherwise it works good. I want a pickup anyway. Roomy cab is nice. Downside would be it rides a bit harsh.
Summary: Better than having an extra vehicle to maintain, insure and find a place to park.
Camping Family Me, Mom, 3 Boyz & Toyz
2004 GMC 2500HD D/A CC 2005 Ameri-Camp 321QBS
You can pick up a very nice used diesel for under 20K if you look in the right place. I know its a long drive for you, but look at Texas for a good truck. I paid 14K for my wife's '03 HO 4x4 Cummins with less than 95K on it. As far as using it for a DD, we each have one and absolutely love them.
2003 299 TB Coachman SOA TT
2001.5 Dodge QC Shortbox 4x4 Auto Cummins
Quadzilla XZT+, Stage 3 Jammer Nozzles, BD J Hook
HTS Trans
Full Gauges
Jordan 2020 Ultima Controller
1978 17' Glastron Carlson (115 Mercury, Hotfoot, completely restored)
We have a PT CRUISER the wife drives and I drive the 2500 Dodge to work. Something that expensive had to pay for itself. She drove 6 miles across country to work and I drove 22 miles one way with a combo of highway town and country. We tryed trading for a week to see the diferences and there was not much. In fact the short drive did not get the big dodge heated up enough to be good for it. Diesels need to be extremly warm to hot to work well. Fuel eccom. on truck went from 18+ to 12 and PT went up 2. Wow. We traded back. I did not wont to tear up an expensive truck on such short drives. Maint. cost per year are about the same as I do my own oil and filter changes on Dodge using snythic rotella from wall-mart and oil filters are about 10.00 from auto parts stores. I use wix. total about $60. twice a year. PT goes to wall-mart for oil and filter at $35. or so 4 times a year. A wash. We dodn't need more than 2 vehicles. Truck pulls a 32' Montana 5th wheel on our vacations to Montana and some weekends with friends. Life is good.
my current truck is a '03 2500 Dodge/Cummins Quad Cab short bed I bought new. It has just over 160000 miles. I had a 600+ miles a week commute (retired now)which was the reason for the Cummins. This particular 305/555 HO model Cummins engine averages me 21-21.5 on that long commute. With its 15000 mile oil change schedule its been a very ecnomical ride with zero issues.
Many 2500/3500 trucks out here with several hundred thousand miles on them and their still going strong. Misuse and lack of maintenance will shorten any vehicle working life.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" Will Rogers
'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach Linex
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er with two slides 16" BFG Commercial LTs
gschindel wrote: Thanks for the help so far. My biggest concern in buying is my modest budget of about 25,000 max. I have seen both Cummings and Durramax for sale in this range but I am wondering if buying this low on the food chain (around 2003-2005 with over 150,000 Km) would end up being lots of headache and expense. I know the engines (if treated properly) last a long long time but how about other things such as turbos, ball joints, fuel pumps, etc? When do these "older" trucks start to reach the end of their life cycle?
Thanks much for the comments - you are a very helpful bunch!
I don't know about Ford F series or Chevy/GMC HD's, but Dodge Ram HD's can have issues with front suspension and steering components. Tie rod ends, control arm bushings, etc. that are OEM are sealed & "permanently lubricated". I have seen posts on the various Dodge forums with owners reporting failure of these components at less than 50K miles. I bought my '05 3500 used with 20K miles on it. It has developed a horrendous squeaking racket in the front end when driving over bumpy pavement. If you purchase used, make sure you take whatever you're considering to a trusted mechanic and have them check it thoroughly; it's money well spent.
My DD is an '06 F350 4x4 Crew Cab SRW short bed with a V10 w/4.10's. I love it!! It is a blast to drive as it is big enough to intimidate the weak of resolve plus is big enough for safety against most other "normal" vehicles.
Maintenance wise - 7 quarts of Semi Syn Motorcraft oil and a FL820S filter every 3-5K miles is $22.50 (plus a $10 fuel filter and a $15 air filter yearly)is cheap. I have OEM tires with less then half wear at 61K miles tho the shocks, brakes and rotors only went ~40K miles. It has NEVER seen the dealer for any other work (yet)
The gas mileage isn't too good with mixed driving at 9.5-11. Open road empty tho it's 13.6 - 15. Pulling my 34', areo capped 12K fiver - it's 8-9.5 which is better then pulling the previous and flat fronted much lighter 29'TT.
I do have to say that in tight parking lots that it does take some planning as to where and how you want to park. At 84.6" tall plus the ICC lights, it's at least 3-4 inches too high to fit some of the local car wash facilities, so it stays dirty more often (yeah, I'm lazy plus our water has so much calcium that it spots instantly)
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plus is big enough for safety against most other "normal" vehicles
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