RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Fifth-Wheels: Replacing the Underbelly

RV Community

  |  

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

RV Dealers

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Fifth-Wheels

Open Roads Forum  >  Fifth-Wheels

 > Replacing the Underbelly

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next
Fifth-Wheels Related Tips
RCMAN46

NorthWest

Senior Member

Joined: 02/24/2008

View Profile



Posted: 09/17/09 01:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

frankwp wrote:

As a veteran of 3 under-belly excursions with my last 5th wheel, I've learned to hate cloroplast. It is too floppy and is very difficult to put back exactly the way it came off. The ideal material would be more rigid and installed in sections maybe 3' wide that could be taken down individually. I've seen foam wall sheathing 1/2" or 3/4" thick that is really light & quite rigid, but I don't know if it would be strong enough:

Owens Corning

Or here's another product that probably would be quite strong:

Dow Thermax

Anybody have experience with either of these?

My new Cruiser has some sort of fabric cover, but haven't opened it up yet so I don't know how good it is. If it's as horrible as the cloroplast, I'd be tempted to try the Thermax
I would be concerned if the two materials you listed could handle the rocks and water the underbelly will see.

renoman69

Edmonton Alberta

Senior Member

Joined: 02/09/2009

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/17/09 01:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My 94 Okanagan had a galvanized underbelly and was water tight but that was done at the factory. The Triple E Topaz fivers also have galvanized underbellies. I was just wondering if anyone has done it after the trailer was built.


2009 Jayco Eagle Superlite RK25.5
2008 Silverado 2500HD Z71 4x4 Duramax/Allison
Reese 15K slider
Honda EU2000I


2LVTOGO

Northern Illinois

Senior Member

Joined: 05/19/2002

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/17/09 06:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Newmar glues 5/8" rigid foam insulation to the trailer side of their aluminum underbelly panels. It adds stiffness to the aluminum sheet as well as extra insulation.


2002 GMC 2500HD D/A 4WD G80 Xcab SB

1997 35' Newmar Kountry Star 34RKSA XL 1 super slide

(See Profile For More Information)


ALBE

Kelowna B.C.

Senior Member

Joined: 08/30/2006

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/17/09 11:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The coroplast is a Joke!! Another example of the factory and Mgt cutting costs,not giving us a Quality product.Whoops we own a Newmar, great product,ONE OF THE BEST UNDERBELLEYS i have seen,next to my good wifes,whoops she just came into the den,i may be in trouble Again!!

charlan

On. ca

Senior Member

Joined: 03/02/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/09 05:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

robrose1 wrote:

I am having the same issue. The previous owner cut the underbelly to add a gas line and taped it back together. Last summer I was in rain for 3 days and the belly just opened up. I found some gorilla tape and it lasted until the high heat of Arizona hit. Anyone found something else to seal it?


Flex-Mend Tape is the right tape to use for underbelly repair.

Link


2008 LMM GMC 3500 SLT 4X4 HD LB Duramax 6.6 Turbo Diesel Dually
Hijacker 4 Way Pivot, Integrated controler,
2004 Prowler Regal Advantage AX6 36.5 FLTS

Puddles

Lafayette, Indiana

Senior Member

Joined: 03/17/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/09 05:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've had to cut into the aluminum underbelly on our Yellowstone two times.. patched with a small piece of aluminum the 1st time.. this last time is a major cut... electrical wiring is tangled up on the shaft that goes btw the slideout gears. ( looks like spaghetti wound up on a fork) these panels are about 4'x8' and have a slip joint across the long edge.. any ideas on where to find replacement panels? TKS


HTML

Puddles

Lafayette, Indiana

Senior Member

Joined: 03/17/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/09 12:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Trying to keep the topic up front...

Dayle1

Spicewood, Tx

Senior Member

Joined: 04/12/2001

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club

Offline
Posted: 09/18/09 04:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

frankwp wrote:

As a veteran of 3 under-belly excursions with my last 5th wheel, I've learned to hate cloroplast. It is too floppy and is very difficult to put back exactly the way it came off. The ideal material would be more rigid and installed in sections maybe 3' wide that could be taken down individually.


Most RVs do use a floppy material, but that is NOT Coroplast, which is a rigid corrugated plastic sheet used most frequently for outdoor signs. It is available in 4x8 sheets and different thicknesses. When I replaced the floppy material on my Cruiser a few yrs ago, I used 8mm thick Coroplast panels. They have held up very well and don't sag, each section can be removed seperately. The sections vary in width between 32" and 48" depending on locations of the Cruiser crossmembers. Google Coroplast.


Larry Day
Texas Baptist Men-Retiree Builders since '01
'03 GMC 2500HD D/A EC SB, Jordan controller, custom RKI bed/hitch, Putco boards, TF 45gal tank, grey Speedliner
'04 CrossRoads Cruiser CF29RK, Mor/ryde IS, Carefree Eclipse 12V awning
Rig Photos


frankwp

Calgary, AB, Canada

New Member

Joined: 09/07/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/09 07:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

Most RVs do use a floppy material, but that is NOT Coroplast, which is a rigid corrugated plastic sheet used most frequently for outdoor signs. It is available in 4x8 sheets and different thicknesses. When I replaced the floppy material on my Cruiser a few yrs ago, I used 8mm thick Coroplast panels. They have held up very well and don't sag, each section can be removed seperately. The sections vary in width between 32" and 48" depending on locations of the Cruiser crossmembers. Google Coroplast.


That sounds really good. The coroplast on my Flagstaff was really light weight & floppy. The whole under belly was in just 2 pieces and was very awkward to handle


2010 Cruiser CF30QB
2003 GM 2500HD, crew cab, SB, 8.1, Allison

whiteeye42

Rock Springs Wyoming

Senior Member

Joined: 07/09/2002

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/09 07:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can repair the black coloplast on the underbelly by taking another piece of the coloplast and lay it over top of the damaged area but the trick is to use RTV silicone sealant and it has to be RTV nothing else will stick for very long what you do is apply the RTV sealant onto the repair piece and stick it to the underbelly and then take 5/8 inch long self piercing screws and washer to fit the screws and you screw the two pieces together then apply a bead of the RTV sealant around the edge of the repair piece i did this as per my rv dealers and it works wonders


Me,Wife two boys ages 20 and 18 also two dogs
2008 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4x4 6.7 cummins
2008 Jayco Eagle 341 RLQS 37' with b&w turnover ball & companion hitch
using rotochoks
add state map


Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Fifth-Wheels

 > Replacing the Underbelly
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Fifth-Wheels


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2009 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS