RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Bay Heaters - if yours aren't heated and they need to be

RV Community

  |  

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

RV Dealers

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > Bay Heaters - if yours aren't heated and they need to be

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev  |  Next
Class A Motorhomes Related Tips
eheading

Lakeland, FL

Senior Member

Joined: 11/20/2000

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club

Offline
Posted: 09/17/09 05:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We just use the propane furnace whenever it gets cold, and then we don't have to worry about the basement. My problem on my present coach though is that the rear furnace is the one heating the basement and the front furnace (located in a slide) is the one that runs most of the time. I just have to make sure that I set thermostats so that the rear one runs occasionally.

Ed Headington
2005 Revolution LE
2004 Tracker toad

Livin Good

Livin Like A Gypsy

Senior Member

Joined: 12/07/2008

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/17/09 07:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the OP ever has a short in one of the heating elements(happens often) goodby coach. I wouldn't even consider sleeping with open resistant type heating grids glowing in a closed out of sight (and smell) area such as that. Fire marshal would shut down any facility with such a dangerous enviorment. Motor homes burn down to the frame in less than 5 minutes often. In this case your fire would be from the bottom up and maybe too late for you and your loved ones to exit. Very Dangerous. A death trap waiting to happen.

sepisllib

Cresco, Iowa

Senior Member

Joined: 12/05/2004

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club

Offline
Posted: 09/17/09 07:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

eheading wrote:

We just use the propane furnace whenever it gets cold, and then we don't have to worry about the basement. My problem on my present coach though is that the rear furnace is the one heating the basement and the front furnace (located in a slide) is the one that runs most of the time. I just have to make sure that I set thermostats so that the rear one runs occasionally.

Ed Headington
2005 Revolution LE
2004 Tracker toad


That's great.

My coach, however, is equipped with the "heat pump" ceiling units and they work very effectively all the way down to the low 20's at which time the propane furnace will kick in instead. By that time it's too late for the bays as their only heat comes from the forced air from the propane furnace and then is only a "residual" heat. It dumps absolutely no heated air into any of the bays.

I don't know the how's and what's of the engineering on my coach, however one would think things like this would be considered in the final design.

Anyway - taken care of now.

God Bless

Bill


Bill W. Trammell
Wife - Judy
2001 Monaco Dynasty Chancellor
2008 Malibu 2LT toad

Daboo

Texas Panhandle USA

Senior Member

Joined: 11/28/2001

View Profile



Posted: 09/17/09 08:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

our Winnie has the furnace "dump" in the basement...we survived a week of 17F weather...as long as the furnace is working, the water stays thawed....


Hello from the windy Texas Panhandle
Winnebago Adventurer 33V
Served proudly 1957-1965..U.S. Air Force

wirenutz

kent,Wa

New Member

Joined: 09/13/2009

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/17/09 08:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I don't think I saw any one posting about heat trace, or their water hose hookup having heat trace

BarbaraOK

Livingston, Texas, USA

Senior Member

Joined: 10/27/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/17/09 09:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

sepisllib wrote:



My coach, however, is equipped with the "heat pump" ceiling units and they work very effectively all the way down to the low 20's at which time the propane furnace will kick in instead. By that time it's too late for the bays as their only heat comes from the forced air from the propane furnace and then is only a "residual" heat. It dumps absolutely no heated air into any of the bays.

I don't know the how's and what's of the engineering on my coach, however one would think things like this would be considered in the final design.

Anyway - taken care of now.

God Bless

Bill


Your insulation around your bays must be pretty bad if you would have trouble if the temperature got just below freezing. It would be easier just to shut off the heat pumps on nights that are scheduled to go below freezing and use the propane furnace.

Barb


Barb & Dave - full-timing
Traveling catpanion Shadow (age 12)
Figment II (2002 Alpine 36 MDDS)
Mischief
(2004 Subaru Forester Toad)
FMCA - F337834, SKP #90761
Our Blog


Boxer Lovers

Hackett, AR

Senior Member

Joined: 07/09/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/17/09 09:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have never heard of any roof mounted heat pump funtioning much below 40 degrees with any degree of effectiveness, but who am I to argue that.

You can always turn your furnace on manually with the thermostat. Would it be possible to splice an outlet into one of the existing ducts and stick a duct vent into the bay near the plumbing?

I have used the light bulb heat in the past as a temporary fix when the coach wasn't being used and I didnt' want to burn up all the propane to keep the tanks from freezing. If properly placed, and monitored, it works fairly well. However, I wouldn't suggest it as a permanent fix.

This is another good reason to opt. for diesel fired heat if you can afford it. It uses modest amounts of fuel compared to propane, and can be set low enough to keep the bays from freezing. Wish my coach had been equipped with it.


Dave & Robin
Boxers; Jake & Katie
98 Country Coach Intrigue, 40
09 Subaru Forrester, toad

sepisllib

Cresco, Iowa

Senior Member

Joined: 12/05/2004

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club

Offline
Posted: 09/17/09 10:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Boxer Lovers wrote:

I have never heard of any roof mounted heat pump funtioning much below 40 degrees with any degree of effectiveness, but who am I to argue that.

You can always turn your furnace on manually with the thermostat. Would it be possible to splice an outlet into one of the existing ducts and stick a duct vent into the bay near the plumbing?

I have used the light bulb heat in the past as a temporary fix when the coach wasn't being used and I didnt' want to burn up all the propane to keep the tanks from freezing. If properly placed, and monitored, it works fairly well. However, I wouldn't suggest it as a permanent fix.

This is another good reason to opt. for diesel fired heat if you can afford it. It uses modest amounts of fuel compared to propane, and can be set low enough to keep the bays from freezing. Wish my coach had been equipped with it.


Well - the ones on my Monaco work extremely well then. According to my manual they are working exactly as designed and the manual even gives the low temp at which the propane heater will automatically turn on ---- and it does.

My bays are all well insulated - sealed nicely. But when the temps around here began to reach down in the teens, or lower, each and every night for a week or more ---- then things "will" begin to freeze regardless of insulation. It doesn't take much heat - just enough to maintain above freezing. The hookup/dump station, on the other hand, has lots of cracks and less than good insulation as it's nothing but a plastic box over there and that box has a removable cover to allow for the sewer hose to come in and hook up. I usually place an old towel around the cracks in that. The fresh water hose snakes in through a small opening in that area also and snaps into a quick-disconnect coupling and this opening also has air leaks.

This is why I ran a blower hose over to that area - heated air circulates all the time when the heater turns on.

I am satisfied with what I put in with one reservation - the water tank heater I will replace with a ceramic as soon as I locate one small enough to fit in the limited space. Those have a little better safety systems built into them.

God Bless

Bill

Desertcat921

HERMISTON OR

Senior Member

Joined: 09/08/2003

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club

Offline
Posted: 09/17/09 10:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When I built my setup I designed the plumbing to be all in one bay and above it. I did like above and put a freeze sensor switch in to turn on a heat lamp. It has worked fine for me for two years even when traveling through freezing ( low teens) weather.


1988 MCI Widebody 40' Coach Conversion, 8V92TA Silver w/ Allison 740
Auto Transmission. 480 Watts Solar, Hughes Satellite Internet W/ Motosat Datastorm, Dish TV. One Cat named Monkey..

GrumpyandGrandma

CIncinnati, OH

Senior Member

Joined: 02/02/2004

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club

Offline
Posted: 09/17/09 11:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

They also make a 12 volt heater, "Back Seat Heat" that is used in the back of vans. It has a built in temp control, and remote on/off switch. Provides heat but not as intensive as 110 volt heater, much safer..


Grandma in front of her retirement home..
She lets Grumpy drive!!


Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > Bay Heaters - if yours aren't heated and they need to be
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2009 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS