Chris Bryant
DeLand, Florida, USA
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Joined: 03/26/2003
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I would bypass the "flame fuse" to test:
These go bad fairly often, and would keep your model from working on either.
-- Chris Bryant
My RV Service Blog
The RV.net Blog
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA USA
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Joined: 01/05/2005
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View 13 page 7 of the Atwood document shows 12 volts to the switch which controls both the LP and the 120 volt functions. I would be looking for a blown fuse in the DC power distribution panel. It could be a wire pulled loose somewhere. or the ground not connected properly.
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/waterheaters/MPD%2093050%20PS%204.9.09.pdf
Bud
Suzuki XL7 pushing Pace Arrow
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Gene&Ginny
North Kingstown, RI
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Joined: 03/16/2004
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targaboat wrote: ...... Let's get our information correct when we post to these forums. The information was correct for a large percentage of the Atwood water heaters like mine. OP didn't say what model or year.
Gene and DW Ginny
2008 Toyota 4Runner 4.7L V8 w/factory towing option
2002 Sunline Solaris Lite T2363
Reese Dual Cam Straight Line HP Sway Control
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insane04
atlanta
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Joined: 10/19/2009
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ok i remaved the "flame fuse" as above and the water heater came on with gas but still not elec. and the next morning it wont come on with gas but for 2 seconds and then off again.
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PershingD
Richland, MO
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Joined: 07/03/2005
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Any help here with this?
I've got a similar problem with my GC6AA-10E water heater on my Kodiak. The gas burner will light for a couple of seconds and then go out. It will try to re-light once or twice, but will not stay lit. The electric side of the unit works fine. Since I will be winterizing this weekend, I'll have all winter to figure it out. I tried removing the thermal fuse, but it acts just the same whether it is there or not.
David
David Pershing
Gayle-DW
Alex-DS
Jesse-DS
Nikki-DD
1999 Ford E-350 Super Duty 6.8L V-10
2005 Kodiak 23TT - No mods yet, but I'm sure there'll be some!
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insane04
atlanta
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well i have now tried a new circuit board and removing the inline flame fuse and neither one worked. i have cleaned all connections and still no hot water. anyone got anymore suggestions?
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA USA
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Adjacent to the thermostat and ECO under some tubing is a thermal fuse. Check it for continuity.
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insane04
atlanta
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already checked the thermal(flamefuse) its good.
thanks
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geezer34nh
New Hampshire
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Joined: 10/22/2007
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We have an older rig and have been plagued for several years by an intermittent no light problem that was happening more and more often, almost Dailey. The other day I pulled all the spade connectors apart and cleaned each one till it and its matching connector until bright and shinny. Then I used a silicon dielectric to coat the terminals and reconnected them. I also cleaned the point where the burner tube connects to the housing until it was bright and shinny. That was a week ago and so far so good.
Brad
Brad & Lucy aka the Geezer & The Hedgehog
1990 Foretravel 38' DP
Kitty Kat: Earl
Whitey Ford the Explorer riding the car trailer
Navigation: CoPilot 9 on a lap top
ASE Master Technician
SAE
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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Joined: 06/11/2007
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insane04 wrote:well i have now tried a new circuit board and removing the inline flame fuse and neither one worked. i have cleaned all connections and still no hot water. anyone got anymore suggestions?
You have replaced the Circuit Board, Now replace the Spark electrode. The Spark Electrode was your original problem.
HOW do you know 120 is not working? The odds are you have a burnt out 120 element. Your model, the Circuit Board controls the 120 element relay. The ONLY way to verify is to gain access to the rear of the W/H and check for 120 volts at the element. If you have 120 volts and the water does NOT get hot after 4 hours, then the element is bad. If you have an AMP meter, you can verify the integrity of the element immediately. Doug
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