I used to work in the glass industry. Our shop made insulated units. That was about 18 years ago. Here is a few things I learned.
The metal spacer between the two panes contains a chemical that absorbs moisture. It is not just a spacer.
Our shop could take just about any shape and make it into an insulated window. All we needed was a template and that could be cardboard.
Most of our windows did not use inert gases. Expensive.
Using tempered or non-tempered glass did not make much difference. It just added one step to the process, tempering.
All tempered glass must have a "bug". An etched mark in a corner to indicate it is tempered.
Glass shops do not do the work most of the time, it is done at a processor (like us). The glass shop would add about 70% or more to the price after we delivered it to them.
That was some time ago so if anything, the processes have improved. Back then it only took us about 2 or 3 days to make any insulated unit.
sum1 wrote: Hi, Jim. Actually, all the windows are required to be tempered and the windshield must be laminated. A popular option in residential windows is argon gas, but like you said, I think it's rare or non-existent in RVs.
Burp wrote: I used to work in the glass industry. Snip.
All tempered glass must have a "bug". An etched mark in a corner to indicate it is tempered.
I've gone around and checked and I DO have the bug on my windows. It's on each pane, upper corner. Not always easy to see.
Actually the hardest part is removing and re-installing the unit. Once out, "Very Carefully", if you nick the glass, its history, drill 2-3/16 holes in the side frame towards the inside from opposite sides. Put a small piece of 3/16 brake tube in one hole hooked up with a hose and use the argon/co2 mix from a mig welder. Let it slowly 'leak' into one hole and exit the other. The key is the dry gas. It may take 2 hours or more but when you are sure all traces of moisture are gone, use black silicone in the holes to plug them and coat the perimeter with sealer to prevent moisture incursion.
Bruce & Tam
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Going Full Time in the Near Future
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Burp wrote: I used to work in the glass industry. Our shop made insulated units. That was about 18 years ago. Here is a few things I learned.
The metal spacer between the two panes contains a chemical that absorbs moisture. It is not just a spacer.
Our shop could take just about any shape and make it into an insulated window. All we needed was a template and that could be cardboard.
Most of our windows did not use inert gases. Expensive.
Using tempered or non-tempered glass did not make much difference. It just added one step to the process, tempering.
All tempered glass must have a "bug". An etched mark in a corner to indicate it is tempered.
Glass shops do not do the work most of the time, it is done at a processor (like us). The glass shop would add about 70% or more to the price after we delivered it to them.
That was some time ago so if anything, the processes have improved. Back then it only took us about 2 or 3 days to make any insulated unit.
I'm going to be taking some of mine apart to clean and reseal....I haven't done it yet, but I have been inspecting and considering how to do this; I have not seen any metal inserts between the glass. The seal looks like black vinyl. Are you talking about residential windows? Maybe the RV windows are just way cheaper or is there something special about that vinyl seal?
sunflyer
2005 Fleetwood Excursion 39S
350 Cat
If you are what you eat; then I am fast, cheap and easy
SunflyerA wrote: I'm going to be taking some of mine apart to clean and reseal....I haven't done it yet, but I have been inspecting and considering how to do this; I have not seen any metal inserts between the glass. The seal looks like black vinyl. Are you talking about residential windows? Maybe the RV windows are just way cheaper or is there something special about that vinyl seal?
There is a type of spacer that looks like a black vinyl. If I remember right it was used for odd shapes and contains the desiccant (the stuff that absorbs the moisture) right in the vinyl.
I've been reading these problematic window threads for some time now and since I have nothing more to offer for the OP's question from a tech standpoint, I can only say that I'm glad to have single panes and that would be a strong consideration for me if I had to replace any doubles.
"We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey."
1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Model 6350, with a tag axle and one slide, on a 1997 P32 Chevy chassis....7.4 Vortec Engine
tropical36
I did just exactly what you stated. I had trouble with my dual pane windows in both the drivers and passengers slider and stationary windows, all four of them were leaking and had developed calcium deposits on the inside. I won't take up the OP post here but what I did was had both the front sliders and stationery's changed to laminated glass and they work flawless and have had "0" problems since the conversion. Just my two cents here. Good luck.
Scott
Scott and Karla San Diego Fire Department RETIRED 1999 Bounder 34V w/slide, V-10 W/BANKS toad-'04 Yellow Jeep Rubicon 2002 Stream Silver Metalic GL 1800 Goldwing KI60ND
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