I'll be pulling the Anode this week and inspecting the tank interior. I'll see what the condition is and decide what to do. Since I have the stove and sink removed for the mods I'm doing, if the tank looks bad, I may install a new heater.
If I decide to replace the HWH what are the pro/cons of using a pilot light versus spark igniter? Do you have to relight the pilot each time you want to make hot water?
DSI is a convienance to light from inside the rig after it has been in storage or had to be turned off to fill propane or the flame went out for some reason. On a pilot water heater, as long as the pilot is lit and the heater is working as designed there is no need to relite unless you choose to save propane and turn it off between uses. One can do that with the DSI from inside the rig with a switch. After having both I am spoiled with the DSI, especually if it is raining, or hot, or cold, or windy outside when I want to ignite the water heater.
Tommy USMC,Susie USN Ret, Dog Buddy
2000 Fleetwood Flair 25F WH P32 7.4L 19.5"
2002 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0L 5 Spd Man
Blue Ox Base,Aventa II,4 PIN Locks
US Gear UTB, Power Gear Man Lev, Onan 4KW
Tent,GP Tent,Tent Trailer,2 Class A's
Are We There Yet?
PROS
1.) Manual, no circuit boards to go bad that make the water heater unusable, no phantom draws when turned on and running on batteries. Once the pilot is lit, it stays going to facilitate the operation of the water heater until it is blown out or turned off.
2.) Temperature Control
3.) Cheaper, even in the Propane/Electric Combo unit
CONS
1.) Have to go outside to light
2.) Have to go outside to relight if it blows out
DSI:
PROS
1.) Completely automatic with the flip of a switch
2.) Uses a Peizo ignitor to light instead of pilot, no blow outs
CONS
1.) Costs more.
2.) Circuit boards are notorious for problems
3.) No temperature control, water heater does not heat water very hot
4.) Requires 12volt power to operate
If you wanted to go to the combo unit, that's a pilot propane w/electric element, you'd be looking for a SW6PE.
Follow along with me at The Journey of the Redneck Express CBChannel 17Redneck Express '1992Dodge W-250 Power Wagon - Club Cab Long Bed V8 5.9L 4spd H.D Auto 4x4 4.10 Gears '1974KIT Kamper 1106 - 11' Slide-in '1987Pullman Mini Camper
Today I ran a bore scope inside the hot water tank and found the following:
Upper tank shell showing porcelain lining separation:
Side wall & rust:
Tank pipe connection & rust:
Heater Tube interior & rust:
I think I'll replace the heater. Suburban - of course - says I have to have a "licensed" RV company install the heater or they void the warranty. And, of course, they have no "licensing" requirements for any dealers. According to the no-help non-customer service person - just find someone else to put it in and that makes the warranty valid... huh?
So, are there any tricks or traps to simply installing a new heater of the same model? It looks like just a slide in replacement
'99 Bigfoot 1500
with low loss control on the Fantastic, Dino board on the Dometic.
Torklifts and Fastguns
'04 F350 V10 Crew SRW SB 4X4 6 speed
with tow hook replacement, dual rate charging, Line-X, Timbrens.
I think I'll replace the heater. Suburban - of course - says I have to have a "licensed" RV company install the heater or they void the warranty. And, of course, they have no "licensing" requirements for any dealers. According to the no-help non-customer service person - just find someone else to put it in and that makes the warranty valid... huh?
So, are there any tricks or traps to simply installing a new heater of the same model? It looks like just a slide in replacement
Bob
Its pretty straight forward.
1.) Unhook all gas, water lines from unit, save the threaded pieces going into the back of the unit, these will be needed again for the new unit. Remember what port they came out of as one is usually a back flow preventer. (NOTE: you will likely have to remove the sealant from the gas line connection on the water heater to be able to get a wrench on it to disconnect the unit. You'll also want to have some gas line pipe dope to apply to the threads of the new one).
2.) Open outside door, remove bottom two screws to remove door
3.) Remove remaining screws that secure the outer ring to the sides of the camper, then back off the big three screws going between the door ring and the water heater. Bag all screws, especially the large ones, for later reuse if not rusted badly.
4.) Remove door ring carefully, you'll need it for the new unit, the doors are sold separately from the heaters.
5.) Check for any screws going through the outer water heater surround into the camper frame and remove.
6.) Detach the wires connected to the DSI control box mounted on the wall from the wires going to the switch, there should be three wire nuts joining them. Make a note of what wires go to what, usually they're not the same color. Unmount DSI control unit from wall, it goes with the water heater.
7.) Slide the water heater INTO the camper, then slip the DSI box out the opening and then slide water heater out after it. If there's enough slack in the wire for the control unit to hang behind the water heater, simply hang behind and slide unit out.
Now is the best time to decide if you want the dual option water heater as there's very little extra work to install one. One only needs to make a run of 14-2 romex from the water heater to an existing electrical circuit (Or if one wants to isolate it, my personal choice) run a line of romex to the fuse panel and add an additional 15 amp circuit breaker to the 110 section).
Installation is the reverse of removal, unless you switch to a non-DSI unit, then you simply skip the need of reconnecting the wires for the DSI switch.
Joe: Thanks for the detailed description, just what I was looking for. Seems pretty straight forward. Recognizing that our main use of this camper is for boondocking, what heater options do you recommend, DSI or pilot with or without electric heating? While I don't envision ever staying in a commercial campground, the time may come when having the electric heating may be useful. Suburban's website says that there is a risk of porcelain failure when running the electric heater without sufficient water in the tank, an unlikely event, but it could happen. Your thoughts?
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