I'm sorry for your problem. In the future when you do your "tug" or pull test, make sure that the wheel chocks are in place on the trailer & the legs are just clearing the ground so you can determine if you are hitched safely. I hope this helps. Good luck.
Yep, I bet the second mistake was the choke not being in place. Is someone willing to take the time to post information about the tug-pull test?
I'm driving...DH is outside hitching up. He guides me on the hitch. I hear it clank and set the parking brake and get out of the truck. When should this tug-pull test be done and maybe I'm doing it wrong. Is it a drive forward or reverse movement?
Will try and talk DH into claiming on the insurance. We have USAA for house, all cars and toys.
Will the BedSpacer fit any hitch without drilling? Doc is only great at drilling teeth! Don't want to mess up our Curt 16K. Maybe it's something CW should install?
Debra
F350 Lariat,Crew Cab long bed 4x4 Diesel
Heartland Big Country 3500RL
"Our home is where the Air Force sends us!"
That really sucks about your new rig! We're going to have our bed saver done at the hitch place. My hubby is an auto mechanic and still won't touch our hitch other than hooking it up to the trailer. You may want CW to do it, just to be sure.
Tug test should be done going forward. Hook everything up on the hitch, only raise your legs about an inch, then tug forward with the trailer brakes on. I have found that our emergency brakes on the trailer don't release until we hook the power to the truck. I do mine with the trailer plug disconnected so the brakes of the trailer are on and give a decent tug.
If it were me, I wouldn't claim insurance if you can afford the repairs yourself. I only use the insurance if it is more than I can afford.
Capt Skup is right about a great place to find a new box. I know there is a huge place over in Arizona if you want a road trip to find one. PM me if you're interested in the name of that place.
Me, my DH, my DD (7) and DS (3)
'09 Puma PF295BHSS 33 1/2' Bunk house (Finally-a camper I'm proud of!)
'04 Ford F-350 crew cab 6.0L PowerStroke diesel "the haulin hawg"
Owners of an auto repair shop-Working hard to play hard later
I have a Reese 16K hitch. After hitching & hearing the "clang" & DW's OK, I set the brake, get out of the truck & set the lock on the hitch arm. DW raises the legs so they are just clear of the ground. The wheel chocks are still in place. I get back in the truck, release the brake, put in in drive and pull forward against the wheel chocks until DW says "OK." Remove the chocks & away we go after raising legs, hooking up safety & elec. cables, checking lights, directionals & doing a circle check. (Prob. missed something) I hope this helps. Good luck.
I crunched the cab of my truck making a U-turn w/the FW in tow. We reported it right away and then considered not making a claim. We talked to the claims adjuster who said there would be no surcharge (the claim is under our comprehensive, not collision, not sure that makes a difference).
So we used the insurance. I was also sick. Truck is back from the shop now... I'm over it. Live and learn.
Dave Lindemulder
Tammy, Mark & Kirsten
04 Dodge 2500 4x4 SLT QC/SB
HO-CTD/48RE - Graphite: Raptor SS nerfs, Prodigy, Reese 16K Kwik-slide, BD X-Monitor, PML Trans pan, PML Diff cover, Firestone Airbags
09 Heartland Cyclone 3210
Pull test is basically you get to where you think you are hitched. Leave the wheel chocks on and I leave the tailgate down. Raise the legs to just 3" above the ground. Hop in the truck and manually actuate the trailer brakes with you controller. Put the truck in gear and pop the throttle, tugging on the trailer. If it doesn't unhitch you should be good, but make sure to visually check for high pinning it or anything else that looks odd.
Dana and Natalie
2008 Chevy Silverado 3500HD LT DRW CC LB 4x4
-PPE Programmer, MRBP Exhaust, Diesel Manor Triple Gauge Pack, FS2500, 60 Aux Tank/Toolbox, Line-X, Full Tint, Curt 20K Hitch
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