I have a 08 Fuzion 362 which is 2 1/2 years old. I have noticed that the last few times I went out with the 5'er, the slide/slides would freeze. The first time this happened I noticed that the slide would freeze twice and only on the livingroom slide. I would have to let go of the slide button and the repress after a waiting a few seconds. After a few more trips the freezing times have increased to where the Bedroom Slide freezes now as well. I have the 5'er plugged into Shore power and the batteries say they are fully charged. Can anyone shed light as to what maybe causing this issue? Any suggestions would help, thanks.
2006 GMC Sierra 3500 DRW 4x4 D/A CC
1996 Dodge Ram Indy (209,850 miles and counting)
2008 VW Jetta
2008 Keystone Fuzion 362
2006 YFZ450 SE
I have the same/similar thing that happens with my '07 3814 Raptor (single slide).
The hydraulic pump's positive wire runs thru a 30 amp "automatic - resetting" circuit breaker and the pump draws as much as 44 amps (or so I've been told). After repeated uses, the circuit breaker seems to be prone to "kicking open" more often, stopping the pump and the slide(s).
If you're able to listen closely, you'll hear the "click" of the circuit breaker resetting (thermally), after which the slide will operate once again (at least until the breaker "trips" again).
When I replace mine, it'll be with a 40 or 50 amp breaker.
It sounds like something is causing extra drag and resistance and the motor or circuit breaker is overheating and shutting off the motor until it cools down.
I am not sure if your slides need it ir not, but is there something that should be lubed on occasion? If so the returning colder weather could also be a factor.
My mechanic put in a new part but it still does it. What happens is the smaller bedroom slide goes out and when the living room slide goes out or in it is larger and after waiting for the smaller slide the system "overheats" and pops the circuit.
I wait 10 seconds and then bring the slide the rest of the way in.
It is a real pain and obviously they didn't beef the part up enough.
Thank you all for responding, I found that it is one of the breakers that is mounted to the wall next to the batteries, the breaker is a 50V, I am going to try a 60V soon and I will report back. Thanks again.
Guys, please be careful increasing a breaker size when you have a problem, this is how fires are started. The proper way is to replace a suspected failing breaker with the same rating.
When a motor (or any electrical device) starts blowing the originally designed fuse or breaker rating it is because of another issue.
Something is causing the motors of these slides to overheat and draw more current than they should. If it was a new unit I could understand that someone could have installed the incorrect breaker at the factory, but the OP mentioned having the unit for over 2 years. If the system worked as designed that long and now is starting to kick the breaker there is a problem that needs to be addressed.
To put it another way, if your toaster at home started kicking the breaker in your home would you inspect the toaster for an issue or replace it, or would change the 20amp breaker to a larger size??
IF you don't understand the system and know how to trouble shoot the issue (this could be electrical or mechanical or both) please call the factory or an RV tech to discuss the problem instead of just throwing larger breakers at it.
12 Volt DC electrical fires are nasty and could at a minimum melt a lot of the wiring in the RV, it keeps getting worse and worse from there..
928gt wrote: Guys, please be careful increasing a breaker size when you have a problem, this is how fires are started. The proper way is to replace a suspected failing breaker with the same rating.
When a motor (or any electrical device) starts blowing the originally designed fuse or breaker rating it is because of another issue.
Something is causing the motors of these slides to overheat and draw more current than they should. If it was a new unit I could understand that someone could have installed the incorrect breaker at the factory, but the OP mentioned having the unit for over 2 years. If the system worked as designed that long and now is starting to kick the breaker there is a problem that needs to be addressed.
To put it another way, if your toaster at home started kicking the breaker in your home would you inspect the toaster for an issue or replace it, or would change the 20amp breaker to a larger size??
IF you don't understand the system and know how to trouble shoot the issue (this could be electrical or mechanical or both) please call the factory or an RV tech to discuss the problem instead of just throwing larger breakers at it.
12 Volt DC electrical fires are nasty and could at a minimum melt a lot of the wiring in the RV, it keeps getting worse and worse from there..
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