harper223
West Texas
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Joined: 09/11/2008
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I HATE, and I mean "HATE" those plastic plugs. But I keep spares and replace them every yr on my Atwood. I also flush the tank out every yr. I dont need an anode rod.
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two-rock
Cape Cod, MA
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Joined: 10/27/2009
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Kind of related to the anode...
I recently added a Camco brand drain valve in place of my plastic plug to make winterizing faster and easier (we use the camper year round).
It's brass...will this cause a problem with the aluminum tank like the anode might?
1999 Ford F350, 7.3, SRW, Hellwig, DIY Stable Loads, no air bags ..
2003 Lance 821
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crab80
Virginia`s Eastern Shore
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Joined: 01/02/2009
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two-rock wrote:Kind of related to the anode...
I recently added a Camco brand drain valve in place of my plastic plug to make winterizing faster and easier (we use the camper year round).
It's brass...will this cause a problem with the aluminum tank like the anode might? Very possible. Brass and aluminum are dissimilar metals and they do not like each other.
2010 Jayco 28BHS
2004 Chevy 1500 Ext.Cab 5.3L, 3.73, Bilsteins
Reese Dual Cam
Prodigy P3
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othertonka
Stockton, CA
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Joined: 11/15/2003
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If it has a plastic plug, it is probably an Atwood and no anode rod is required or even recommended. As for removing the plastic plug, a six point socket with a short extension is the right tool to use. With the six point socket you will not round off the corners of the plug. And a couple of turns of teflon tape on the plug when you replace it will help the next time you go to remove it. Don't overtighten and the plug will last a long time. (Sorry I don't remember the size of the socket at this time. the MH is not here for me to look)
The worst tool to use is channel locks in my opinion.
* This post was
edited 11/11/09 11:50am by othertonka *
Othertonka
2004 Southwind 32VS 8.1 Workhorse chassis
2002 CRV Toad
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robsouth
Near Atlanta, GA
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Joined: 06/20/2004
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My nylon plug is 15 years old and still working properly. I bought a spare about 10 years ago but God only knows where it is now. No anode in aluminum tank.
Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins Turbo Diesel Dually
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MARKW8
Akron OH
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Joined: 03/09/2004
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two-rock wrote:Kind of related to the anode...
I recently added a Camco brand drain valve in place of my plastic plug to make winterizing faster and easier (we use the camper year round).
It's brass...will this cause a problem with the aluminum tank like the anode might?
I had a plastic one brake in my 5er, so I replaced it and the one in the TC with the brass one. I nolonger have the 5er but the one in the TC is about 4yrs old. I used teflon tape on the threads, and have had it back out once to look at it. So far no problems.
Mark.
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Lar114
St. Clair Shores Mi.
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Joined: 05/30/2004
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othertonka wrote:If it has a plastic plug, it is probably an Atwood and no anode rod is required or even recommended. As for removing the plastic plug, a six point socket with a short extension is the right tool to use. With the six point socket you will not round off the corners of the plug. And a couple of turns of teflon tape on the plug when you replace it will help the next time you go to remove it. Don't overtighten and the plug will last a long time. (Sorry I don't remember the size of the socket at this time. the MH is not here for me to look)
The worst tool to use is channel locks in my opinion. BINGO!! (key sentence) Right tool for the job, and don't over tighten. However I don't use teflon tape on mine, even though I do carry it. O well, no runs no drips. If I ever need it it's there.
Larry & Wife Debbie
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 6.0 Vortec, 4:10 gears, Tow Haul Mode
2004 Dutchmen Sport 26L
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Chuck&Gail
In the Colorado Mountains
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Joined: 06/16/2004
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FYI on my Atwood the safety valve is brass. If brass is bad, why did Atwood use it?
Chuck
Wonderful Wife
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1999 Mercedes ML320 TV
2003 Wanderer 187TB Toybox (3620# UVW, 4800# loaded)
Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories.
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LarryJM
NoVa
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Joined: 11/09/2007
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Chuck&Gail wrote:FYI on my Atwood the safety valve is brass. If brass is bad, why did Atwood use it?
And just how do you know it is just simply brass or not maybe brass with bronze threads or with a coating on the threads that prevents the dissimiliar metal issue like an epoxy coating, etc. The main body might be brass, but you have no idea what the thread material actually is or how it has been treated to make it compatible with the ATWOOD WH.
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
ALL TRAILER MODS>>ETERNABOND INSTALL>>RAINKAP INSTALL
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nosaint3
Sioux Falls,SD
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Joined: 02/06/2005
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FYI on my Atwood the safety valve is brass. If brass is bad, why did Atwood use it?
Interesting question. However, I did have my plastic thingy break at an impromtu time but the tiffin store at Red Bay, Alabama fixed me up with a brass one with the anode rod for a temporary fix. I swapped out with the plastic as soon as I found one, and bought a spare to boot. No damage noted.
nosaint3
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