I am about to install a combo washer dryer in the front closet and I need to know the proper way to rout the dryer vent and where to cut the vent to get outside. I have purchased the 90 degree adapter.
Thanks for your help.
* This post was
edited 01/29/10 09:23pm by waroland *
I don't think there is a "proper" way to install the dryer vent. Make a small hole where you think you want to install the vent and probe inside the wall for studs. Once you have identified where they are and that there is no electrical or plumbing in the way, proceed cutting the hole. It is really scary the first hole you make in that beautiful side, but be careful, use lots of masking tape on the outside to help prevent tearing and you will soon have a 4 inch hole all done.
Don,Lorri,and our new pup Charlie
The Other Dallas
Over 1,200 volunteer hours
Keystone had an orange sticker on ours that said approximately where to vent. I measured a couple of dozen times to make sure I avoided graphics. I drilled a pilot hole and measure again. I used a 4" hole saw, but it was too shallow to finish from one side. I had to go outside to finish drilling.
Ours was in the center closet, so there may be a few differences, but for the most part just make sure you place in a spot that is easy enough to route the vent hose behind the unit. Ours was tight enough I had to go up an over the dryer motor, but I believe they want you to stay low on the combos because of the damp lint.
We have some pics in our mod link below if you want to see, but again ours was in a different location. My buddy just put the combo in his forward closet and just went straight out the side.
Won't it take a lot longer to dry with a 90 degree bend instead of venting it directly outside? It already takes quite a while for a dry cycle on a combo unit.
Dave & Kathy
2007 Monaco Knight 40PDQ towing 2003 Odyssey
Fulltime since October 2007
Before you give someone a piece of your mind, make sure you can get by with what will be left. Our Blog National Parks Visited
you want to drill a pilot hole all the way through, then holesaw from each side. if you punch through from the inside to the outside you will cause more deformation to the siding, then if you cut it from the outside in.
On our Cedar Creek there was a sticker where to drill. I would use a 4 1/8 Lenox hole saw with center guide drill bit, make sure the hole saw and the drill bit are sharp. Set the drill bit for no more than 1/2" to 3/4" out from 4 1/8" hole saw
1. Figure out from the inside where the wall studs are, look for the small staples that attach the inside wall panels to the studs, they are usually filled with white spackle.
2. Carefully look at where the electic wall outlets are in the laundry area, chances are good the wires run kind of level to and from the wall outlets, make note from the outside (measuring down from the roof) where any marker light wiring may logically be, and lastly think about where plumbing supply, drain and vents may logically be.
3. Carefully, and without a lot of pressure, drill though the inner wall material, stop immediately when you punch through. Clear away the fiberglass insulation, look for plumbing and electrical.
4. If all looks good from the inside, proceed to drilling the hole through the exterior by drilling without much pressure through the interior wall only until the guide bit penetrates the exterior wall of the camper. Then go outside, and on good stable footing, proceed to finishing the hole from the outside.
If the inside hole turns out to be bad, that's o.k. as it won't show like a bad outside hole will. I would consider not using any type of angle vent kit, less restriction means better drying. When you caulk the vent on the outside, think like a raindrop.
Finally, I would never, ever, drill a hole in the fiberglass front cap.
Drill the smaller hole and "explore" inside the wall to be sure that you have room for the larger hole. Then, when you're sure, drill only through the inside wall. Inspect, again, before drilling through the outer wall. Then, pilot hole, only, from the inside, and finish from the outside. Good luck.
Retired U.S. Army SFC ('67 - '88)
(Infantry, AG Corps)
Nam Vet - Infantry (68-69-70 & 71-72)
2009 F350 Crew Cab Dually PSD Tow Boss
2009 Cameo F35SB3 w/TST TPMS
Life Member MOPH and DAV
If aluminum studded, on a very cool morning without any heat in the coach view the condensation pattern on the side of the coach created by the fiberglass without framing behind it warming faster than the framing profile. That might give you a place to start.
Today is just the tomorrow you worried about yesterday!