We bought the coach a year ago with 35000 miles. The prev owner had replaced the air filter but not the fuel filter. I decided to get one and change it as preventive maintenance. Here's a rundown of what I did:
Parts/Tools/Supplies
Filter Purolator F65277, 5/16" quick disconnect release tool, small screwdriver (pocket size), jack and stand, band aids
Time
Approx 15 minutes
Coach hadn't run for over a month so I did not depressurize the system. I had to raise the coach a few inches at the front.
Loosen gas cap per service manual.
Filter's inside driver side chassis rail, under the cab.
Filter has push-on quick disconnects each end. The open sides face the filter.
Unsnap the Safety Clips using the small screwdriver. You'll see that one end engages the open side of the connectors.
Release the rear connector first using the 5/16" release tool. While pushing the tool into the open side, do a push/pull on the line. Turn disconnected line upward to keep gas from draining out.
Remove filter from its spring bracket in the frame.
Then release the front disconnect. Set old filter aside to drain.
Snap new filter (with directional arrow pointed to front of coach) into the front disconnect.
Snap filter into frame rail bracket.
Snap rear disconnect onto rear of filter.
Reinstall both safety clips.
Start engine and check for leaks.
Lower coach.
Apply band aids as required.
Filter's hidden behind a big exhaust pipe heat shield... My release tool is an X-shaped thing that does 5/16 on one end and 3/8 on the other. You want a compact tool because of the tight access. There's also a 5/16 individual tool that's even smaller.
The gas only drained slowly out of the old filter. I could barely blow the gas through it. Before installng the new filter, I could use it to blow the dust around on the shop floor. Huge difference in flow!
I can't help but think a clean filter must be easier on our precious electric fuel pumps.
God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100
A caution on the Ford fuel filters. There are two nipple lengths (inlet and outlet tubes on the filter) which were used on Fords some years ago. Watch out that the filter you use has the same length of tube protruding from the filter.
If you use a short tube filter in place of a long one, the tubes are just long enough to allow the tubes annular rings to lock into the quick connection on the fuel lines.
All will be well until you need to replace the filter again, at which time you will discover that there is not enough room to insert the release tool. The only cure then is to cut the tubes off of the filter and thread a big sheet metal screw into each tube and then use the release tool. The screw allows the piece of tube to be pulled out of the fuel line quick coupler.
Scary! I wonder if the older short-tube filters meant to be used with hairpin or duckbill clips. Glad I matched the parts up!
I was curious why some of the older filters were much larger in diameter than the one on this newer unit. Seemed like backward progress.
Before you remove the old fuel filter be absolutely sure you have the right fuel filter to replace it with. Remember, the fuel filter has to be secured in the fuel filter cradle holder so it must fit. Release the pressure via the shrader valve (OR just leave your gas cap off for a few hours, then remove filter) and yes you will need a removal tool which cost a few $. When changing the fuel filter, wear eye protection and obviously no smoking. Have a few rags, small container to catch slight amount of gas that will flow when you pull the filter. Basically, to remove the inline filter you undo the metal retaining clips from each side of the filter you are removing and then use the tool to release the filter at each end. Undoubtedly you will fool with the tool and how to release with it but after a couple of minutes you will get the drift of it. 8-) Be sure to install the new filter with the arrows point in the proper direction. It really is easy to change the fuel filter yourself and it will save you $ for sure. YES, you are smart to change the filter before you find the filter is problematic and leaves you stranded on the road! Good idea to keep a spare in RV with your disconnect tool.
Hints on the fuel filter removal:
In regard to the nylon disc set.... it is "Lisle" brand, part # 37000 "AC/Fuel dis-connector tool set (about $9.00+-). This set has multiple sizes and unfortunately the other tool you can buy, the metal scissors tool has 2 sizes. I find the plastic disc set is the better way to go because you have various size discs, one of which will fit. With the fuel line disconnect discs have two open end wrenches. I slide the proper size nylon/plastic fuel line dis-connector (3/8 for the Ford V10) into the circular opening on the end of the fuel line and with the open end wrench put one wrench around the front fuel line to hold it and one open end wrench to push the fuel line dis-connector disc IN and easily the fuel line comes out/ free. I find that if I leave the fuel filter in its cradle and remove the lines while the fuel filter is in the cradle that the removal is extremely easy. The trick is do not at anytime pull the fuel filter away from the fuel line while you are using the fuel line dis connector tool. You push the fuel filter into the line/connector and as you are pushing it in use the two open end wrenches and the remover disc to separate the line from the filter. It is harder to for me to explain this then for me to remove the fuel filter. The inline fuel filter removal is easy if you have an understanding of how the filter is attached. When you install the new filter you want the arrow printed on the side of the fuel filter pointing toward the engine.
In regard to the nylon disc set.... it is "Lisle" brand, part # 37000 "AC/Fuel dis-connector tool set (about $9.00+-). This set has multiple sizes and unfortunately the other tool you can buy, the metal scissors tool has 2 sizes. I find the plastic disc set is the better way to go because you have various size discs, one of which will fit. Available at Advanced Auto, AutoZone, etc.
By the way, the Lisle discs also easily disconnect Air Conditioning Lines and Quick Connect Fuel Lines. Set of six tools which disconnect the spring lock couplings on Ford and Chrysler air conditioning line. Also works on fuel line quick connect couplings found on GM, Ford, and Chrysler. The 5/16" size fits on push lock connectors found on Ford radiators and transmission lines. Easy to use in confined spaces. Set includes six sizes: 5/16", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and 7/8".
Also available is a metal scissor tool you can use to disconnect the fuel filter but I personally do not like this tool as it is more difficult to use. I prefer the Lisle nylon discs.
Normk wrote: A caution on the Ford fuel filters. There are two nipple lengths (inlet and outlet tubes on the filter) which were used on Fords some years ago. Watch out that the filter you use has the same length of tube protruding from the filter.
If you use a short tube filter in place of a long one, the tubes are just long enough to allow the tubes annular rings to lock into the quick connection on the fuel lines.
All will be well until you need to replace the filter again, at which time you will discover that there is not enough room to insert the release tool. The only cure then is to cut the tubes off of the filter and thread a big sheet metal screw into each tube and then use the release tool. The screw allows the piece of tube to be pulled out of the fuel line quick coupler.
Swearing is not optional......
HIH
Norm
Excellent warning! This is very important. Buy the right filter and visually verify it is going to work before you proceed with the fuel filter change.
j-d wrote: I had a chance to illustrate Normk's warning. The small diameter filter in the photo is from the RV and uses the air conditioning line type of disconnect tool for metal connectors. The large diameter filter is for our older Aerostar and uses a plastic clip through a plastic connector..
Also important is that most parts catalogs (Autozone and NAPA) at the very least list the wrong filter!
Both stores gave me the large filter. Upon cross reference, we found the small filter is also used on the Ranger. So... best to bring your filter in with you.
Bryan
2000 Ford E350 DRW Wagon (14-pass all captains chairs)
V10 w/ Banks PowerPack, Diablo Predator, 4.56 LS, ~350,000 miles
New Desert Fox in the works!
I had a chance to illustrate Normk's warning. The small diameter filter in the photo is from the RV and uses the air conditioning line type of disconnect tool for metal connectors. The large diameter filter is for our older Aerostar and uses a plastic clip through a plastic connector. At the left side of the picture, I've put one of the clips for the Aerostar filter on each filter to show where the retaining ring falls on the inlet/outlet tubes. On the right side, I've put my disconnect tool. Look at the large diameter filter and the position of the disconnect tool. You'll see that there isn't enough tubing length to get the disconnect tool between the filter housing and where the quick disconnect would be.
The tubing (and therefore disconnect tool) size on both filters is 5/16". There's a large diameter filter with the longer tubes that would replace both filters. For that matter, so would the small diameter/long tube filter.
One way to be warned about the short-tube filter: It comes with a pair of those plastic clips. The long-tube filter doesn't need them and doesn't come with them.
Mr_T_D, our cab/chassis is 2002 model year.
Kudos-- but I'd rather make this money and pay someone who needs a job (unemployment in MI over 10%). We don't have to do everything ourselves to be in charge of our MH.
I don't disagree with the employment concept. But all too often I look afterwards and find the work was cobbed. Then it's either permanent damage, I live with it, I correct it, or I get to go back at THEIR convenience to rectify. If I screw it up myself I can correct on my own schedule....
Sometimes I'm stuck. Like "check engine" came up "gas cap" on mother-in-law's Buick. It ended up at the mechanic because the problem wasn't really the cap but the sensor that didn't think the cap was really there. OK, they fixed it. But the pretty (and totally decorative fake aluminum casting which is actually plastic and says "3800 V6") isn't there. I go back and "I don't have it, if it'd been there I've put it back." Car looks cobbed and it's up for sale.
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