ABinOK
oklahoma
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navspecwarops wrote:I was on a conference call with the general manager for Montana sales in the west this past Saturday. They know very little about the 357TH because there are no completed units. He even suggested the floorplan online is meerly a mock-up meaning the dinette and bunks were sort of "added." They are working to complete the first prototype unit in time for the dealers preview show in a few weeks. You'll note from my earlier email a number of options will be "mandatory" on the 357THT and the 357 is on a longer chassis than the 347THT. The twelve foot dinette is probably one of the mandatory options. The base price will be raised by about $5K with list prices coming in a bit north of $60K. They don't expect photos of the protype to be on the net for another 3-4 weeks with first deliveries to dealers toward the end of December.
Thanks for the info!!!
Alan Brown
2001 Ford super duty 4x4 CC SB 7.3 powerstroke Tymar Performance Intake/Muffler deleted/Reese 16k slider
2001 KZ Sportsman 25 foot 5th wheel,axles flipped,low profile,10,000 GVWR/2006 RMZ450/2003 RM125 double towed on a 5x8 3 rail trailer
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pddiver1
Colorado Springs, CO
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Congrats on finding the 347THT. I have the 2011 and a friend has the 2010 model. I got mine with dual pane windows, slider awnings, fireplace and free standing table but did not get the generator or second air.
I use the Harbor Freight MC chock and it works well for my Goldwing.
I use a Honda 3000eu gen, and the Pullrite 16k slider on a 2004 Ford F350 crewcab with the short bed. I have had to replace the hitch under warranty as the slider pin sheared due to pressure and angle I believe. Pullrite covered it but it was obvious it was probably my fault.
I love the trailer, and have been from Colorado to Florida up east cost to NJ and back to Colorado via Michigan for a few weeks. Trip took about 3 months and I did have a slider issue and a bold coming up thru the floor in the dinning/kitchen area. Both fixed under warranty and Keystone was very helpful in taking care of everything. Did have major issues with the time it took Lazydays RV in FL to just do the slider work, (5 weeks) while visiting family but still love the trailer.
No heat vent in garage area but easy enough that my friend put a vent in his as the room can get cold.
Enjoy your new toy.
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navspecwarops
Roseville, CA - Gateway to the Sierras
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Joined: 07/30/2010
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Thanks! We're looking forward to getting it about three weeks. Sorry to hear about the slider problems. I worked a 16K Superglide into the deal along with a Trail Air pinbox. My wife pretty much insisted if we get a generator she wanted the built in, one button variety. Doesn't want us lugging things around especially in the circumstances where we would need the generator. I suppose convenience is a key element at this age. Interesting on the lack of garage heat. I'm not sure that will be much of an issue for us. It's great to see what everyone is doing with their rigs to customize them. I'll be standing by for more handy hints. Can't wait!
Bob and Jeanie Morrow
2011 Ford F250 4X4 King Ranch
16K Pullrite Superglide
2012 Mountaineer 347THT
2002 BMW K1200LTE
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navspecwarops
Roseville, CA - Gateway to the Sierras
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Things have been a little complicated buying a trailer on the other side of the country, deciding on upgrades, figuring out the licensing and sales tax issues, waiting for the parts and getting the upgrades completed, then getting it transported to the west. At this moment, the trailer is finally on its way west to their sister dealer in Salt Lake City. We plan to pick it up in a couple weeks as the holidays have started to encroach on our time. As previously mentioned, we did get the 16K Superglide hitch but then decide to get a Roll n Lock bed cover to keep it clean and dry plus give us a lot more secured storage when we're not hooked up. So, I'm down to the wheel chock and thinking about buying the Condor Trailer Only Wheel Chock.(I decided the Baxley had too large of a footprint and returned it) With this Condor you can remove all of it pretty simply down to a flat plate. I know the HF knock off seems to be working for many and folds down like a Condor too. My questions are, and specially aimed at Sniperduece, have you had thoughts of wanting to remove the wheel chock down to a flat plate? And, has this board under the rear tire really seemed necessary? I mentioned this problem to a Montana factory rep and he thought I was joking. I don't have a Harley and never have so I don't really understand the suspension issues of which many of you speak especially blocking the engine. I've trailered and even shipped my BMW bikes on long haul pallets cross country and they always ride perfectly fine on their suspensions particularly the LT I'll be hauling in this trailer. I mean no disrespect but it seems like blocking the engine would eventually result in another dent at that location. From earlier posts I am in agreement that if the bike is within weight restrictions and is properly centered and tied, one should have no issues tranporting it in a trailer designed for that purpose. No?
* This post was
edited 11/28/11 06:22pm by navspecwarops *
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sniperduce
Norman, Oklahoma
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Bob
On the HF (Condor clone) chock I cut the frame down about 12 inches so as to not encroach into the garage too much. I was anal and secured mine with large bolts through the floor and used a backup plate and washers too. I don't remove mine but wish I could with my 2 year old grandson in the rig. The rear tire plywd (24 x 30) is necessary with my 900 lbs Harley Ultra Classic. The wood box under the engine/frame also helps spread the weight too. I saw some 347tht pictures where the rear tire had deflected the floor so much that their dealer replaced and braced the floor. Do a search and you can likley find that thread here. Anyways the floor framing runs longwise in the garage which seems quite odd. They use 3 inch alum. (not steel) very light channels. Also check your d-rings carefully. I had one pull out and did some damage tot eh trailer and bike. Use all the tie downs everytime plus the chock. Also the ramp really moans when I load the Ultra. The garage area I was told only has a 1000 lbs rating so the door is almost there with the harley.
If you have any other questions let me know.
"Sniperduce"
2004 F350 PSD 6.0L 4x4 FX4 Lariat Crew Cab SB SRW Linex, etc.
2011 Montana Mountaineer 347 THT
16K Reese Slider Prodigy BC
2008 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic
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sniperduce
Norman, Oklahoma
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Bob
At nearly 900 lbs the Harley weight is displaced at the front and rear tire obviously. The chock displaces and distributes most of the front 400-500lbs but the rear tire and it's 400-500 lbs contact patch is only a few sq inches. The floor decking is ony 9/16" OSB. I wasn't comfortable with the condition plus the floor bowed slightly from the rear tire weight the first time we loaded the Ultra. My dealer also laughed when I told them what I did too by blocking the motor and the plywd under the rear tire. Others on the forums recommended the blocking and plywd in the toyhauler area. Sure its overkill but I plan to have this rig for a long time. I glued foamed backed carpet tiles (foam side down) under my rear plywd. It never moves. You can ride right over it. I've done it so many times I can be loaded and strapped down in 15 mins-all by myself. Good luck.
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sniperduce
Norman, Oklahoma
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Bob
Here a old thread on the MOC (Montana Owner's Club)forum I belong to
that might help explain what I'm talking about on the 347, chock and floor situation. I hope this link works. You might have to cut and paste:
http://montanaadministrator.forumco.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=39616&SearchTerms=347THT
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RK Hauler
SW MI
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We have the Condor with the small plate mount in ours. Mainly so we can get the chock out of the way if we hang out in the garage or use it as a spare bedroom.
I got the blocking tip from another forum. On mine, the block actually supports the frame, not the engine (I would personally be leary of putting that sort of force on the crankcase). Cinching the bike down against the block (tie-downs to the frame not the handlebars) makes it as solid as can be - pretty much part of the trailer. No ill effects on the floor as the center of the block is centered on top of one of the floor joists. The base of my "block" is 3/4" plywood that is about 10x20 or so, which spreads the load out.
This setup recently traveled Alaska and Canada over hundreds of miles of real some rough roads. The bike was always right where I put it and the garage floor is as flat as it ever was. The windshield did get jarred loose once, but didn't fly completely off.
Congrats on the new trailer!
Greg & Roxane
2010 Mountaineer 347THT Toyhauler
2002 F250 7.3 SRW CC LB Tow and Camper Package
2002 Harley Road King
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sniperduce
Norman, Oklahoma
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Yes the blocking is under the engine frame. Here's what I did. (I've made the PlyWd base under the frame larger since this picture)
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/694/cimg00111.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/100/cimg00081.jpg/
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rhd47
SW PA
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Joined: 11/08/2010
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sniperduce wrote:
" Also the ramp really moans when I load the Ultra. The garage area I was told only has a 1000 lbs rating so the door is almost there with the harley. "
I just looked at a 2011 a few weeks ago.....the cargo area is rated at 2000# and the ramp is rated at 1600#.....800# per tire load.
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