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 > Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Install on '93 E350 **IMAGE HEAVY**

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ClemenP

Spangle, WA

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Posted: 04/01/10 05:48pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thought some might be interested in my rear sway bar install so I grabbed some pics to illustrate. I ordered my sway bar on-line, a Hellwig PN 7085, from Summit Racing. They had the best price, $264.95 plus $12.95 delivery and handling for a total of $277.90 delivered to my door. The bar was back ordered, so it took a couple weeks to get here, but I was in no hurry. I waited until my son could come out and help me since the 1 1/2" bar is quite heavy and difficult for one person to maneuver. Here's what came in the parts box, the bar...



Small parts box...



Here are the small parts laid out minus the end link bars which I had already installed...



My son and I wrestled the 50-something pound bar under the motorhome after attaching the bushings with some grease as recommended by Hellwig. The grease is supposed to stop the bushings from squeaking. I used some marine grade grease hoping it would last longer vs "regular" grease, you can see some of the grease next to the bushing after installing them on the bar...



The bar is installed using the saddle brackets, "D" bushings, bushing clamps, and u-bolts and everything is left loose to make adjustments prior to final tightening and torquing. The instructions make it clear to bend the brake lines so there is no contact with the u-bolts - this is harder than it sounds. The passenger side wasn't too hard to do...



But the driver's side was a real pain in the rear...



Since the saddle brackets are supposed to be placed as close as possible to the inside of the shock mounts, that put the u-bolt very close to where the brake line is bolted to the distribution block. Ever try to bend a line at the fitting? So, after some choice words, I managed to get the brake line to clear the u-bolt even though it doesn't look that way in the photo. The fuel tank was in the way of getting a good angle.

After all this, we had the bar in place, everything hanging loose, and I noticed the driver's side end link was at a severe angle...



No way that was going to work. We tried moving the bar more towards the driver's side to eliminate the angle, but it only made the other side worse, and I couldn't get any point of making it acceptable. So, we put it all on hold until I could talk to Hellwig tech support the following Monday. The gentleman I spoke with (Tim) was very helpful and pulled some tech sheets which had the center to center measurement for the end link mounting position on the bar. It was supposed to be 39 3/4" and the arms that ran parallel to the frame were supposed to be 16 1/4". So, I pulled the bar off as I was working alone and couldn't get a good measurement with it on the coach, and lo and behold, my bar was 39 5/16" CTC! At least I knew where the problem was. I called Tim at Hellwig tech support and he shipped me a new bar and also sent a pre-paid return shipping label to return the defective bar.

Once the new bar arrived, I measured the ctc width to make sure it was correct before wrestling it into place and it was exactly 39 3/4"!

Since I already had the side plates on, I attached the end links to the bar, and then used 6" long blocks of 2x4s to hold the bar in place while I installed the u-bolts, saddle brackets, and "D" bushing clamps. It was still a bugger wrestling that beefy bar into place, but I got it done. As before I left everything loose and now I had the correct angle on both end links, as shown by the passenger side photo here...



The only problems I ran into were the rather ambiguous instructions that didn't clearly define where to use the two lock nuts, J-bolts that contacted the spring packs, and a lot of excess thread exposed on the bottom of the end links that could catch on things. Hellwig supplies two lock nuts that are identical to the nuts for the u-bolts, with the exception of the staked spots on the nut flats which I didn't notice until I already had them on the u-bolts. Hellwig supplies 8 nuts for the u-bolts so you can use a second one on each end as a jam nut. IMO, a single, self locking nut would have been just fine for the end links and the u-bolts.

The J-nuts were another issue altogether, and required trimming so they wouldn't contact the spring packs...



I had to trim them before installing, so I marked them for the cut then whipped out my 3" cut off tool and trimmed them off...



A quick debur, and a pass with a die, and they went on smoothly.

Last thing I did was trim the excess end link length off, and again, used my cut off tool to do so. I trimmed about 1 1/2" off the bottom...



Outside of that, the install was straight forward and took about an hour or so to complete not counting the extra time to install, remove, and reinstall the replacement bar. Here's the finished product before I trimmed the bottom of the end links...



Test drive completed and it works like a dream!


Phil
'93 Tioga 23P

Home Skillet

Pearland Texas

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Posted: 04/01/10 06:28pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for taking the time to post this.


2005 Gulf Stream Conquest 31ft
BigFoot Levelers,SmarTire,Bilstein Shocks,Trans temp guage,Lowrace iWAY

ClemenP

Spangle, WA

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Posted: 04/02/10 08:52am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I don't know if our bars are the same j-d, but I agree, for the price the Hellwig bar is a bargain!!

You are correct, there was a hole already in the frame for the upper end link bracket bolt and the j-bolts were used on bottom of the frame.

I'm mailing my warranty card out today, so comments about my experience will be included.

One thing I learned, Hellwig is now offering a bar with more ground clearance than the #7085, wish I'd known that before I ordered this one as ground clearance with this bar is reduced somewhat. Then again, I'm not off-roading the RV either. :-)

Snodog

Belmont, Ca

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Posted: 04/12/10 08:51am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Great work!

Now if you really want to experience sport SUV like handling you need to add the Hellwig E-350 front sway bar.

I love having both bars on my jayco.


Once upon a time there was a tent, then it
became a 1994 Coleman Pioneer Arcadia,
now it is 1994 Jayco Eagle 24' M230.

Steve

j-d

Sunny Florida USA

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Posted: 04/02/10 08:18am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Very similar install to ours I wonder if it's the same bar, or if the 450 chassis is wider so the bar needs a different spread at the end links. I looked at Roadmaster before ordering Hellwig, then at the E350 kit when I learned about this project. Same approach except the saddles the axle U-Bolts pass through are forged instead of formed. Again for the price and the same specs on the bar itself I'd go with Hellwig again.
Yours must have had one hole in the frame for the upper bracket bolt and they sent J-bolts for the lower instead of having you drill for a bolt. Ours had a lower hole.
Again, Hellwig doesn't make the difference clear between the staked nuts and the plain ones. They really ought to do that and I included that comment on my warranty card.


If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

ron.dittmer

Northern Illinois

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Posted: 05/01/10 05:27pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Today my brother and I installed this exact bar (same as ClemenP) on my brother's 1998 Starflyte E350-V10, but we did something a little different.

The upper-most mounting bolt for the front vertical brackets, we bolted through the larger slotted hole seen in your last picture. It mounted the front brackets a little higher and a little farther back. We considered the hole you used, but on both sides they were too small to accept the bolt. We figured Helwig intended to use the slot given they provided that huge rectangular plate with threaded hole as a nut for the bolt.

When we tightened everything up well, the links with rubber grommets were perfectly perpendicular to the bar, the bar was parallel to the road, and there was no need to cut the "J" bolts because they were far from the leaf spring clamp. My brother did cut the bottom of the link/grommet bolts, just for a little extra insurance that nothing would catch on them.

In the middle of the bar, the big bushings got angled rearward because the front brackets were more rearward. This set the bar slightly higher also increasing the distance between the shocks and bushing brackets.

In conclusion, mounting the front brackets' top bolts in the slotted holes gave better ground clearence, better shock clearence, and perpendicular links with grommets.

The only thing I question is the material of the big bushings. They sure seemed like they were rubber, not hard polymer material as I read on this forum and Helwig's website. Maybe poly bushings are provided only for the E450 kit.

* This post was last edited 05/01/10 06:08pm by ron.dittmer *   View edit history


2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow


j-d

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Posted: 05/01/10 05:39pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good on you for getting that done, Ron! Our 450 had the two holes needed for the end link mounts so that was what I used. I just looked back under there. There IS a slotted hole, but it's so far above and behind the OEM sway bar hole that the whole relationship would have really gotten fouled up.
x2 on the Hellwig front bar comment. The OEM Ford bar isn't just too small for the job, it's also a flawed design.

ClemenP

Spangle, WA

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Posted: 05/04/10 10:32am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

j-d wrote:

There IS a slotted hole, but it's so far above and behind the OEM sway bar hole that the whole relationship would have really gotten fouled up.
x2 on the Hellwig front bar comment. The OEM Ford bar isn't just too small for the job, it's also a flawed design.

I agree with j-d, the slotted hole on our '93 E-350 was too far back to properly position the bar, and the end links would have been angled rearward. Since Hellwig lists this bar as fitting '76 - '06 E-350s, I suspect there are many different holes available for mounting to accommodate the wide year range. In my case, the forward hole was a perfect match for the supplied bolt and provided a near vertical end link.

I had the MH out on 600 mile road trip a week ago and the combination of the new sway bar and Bilstein shocks made a huge improvement on handling. I think I will eventually replace the stock front bar, but don't feel it's as necessary as the shocks and rear bar were.

ron.dittmer

Northern Illinois

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Posted: 05/04/10 08:26pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ClemenP wrote:

j-d wrote:

There IS a slotted hole, but it's so far above and behind the OEM sway bar hole that the whole relationship would have really gotten fouled up.

I agree with j-d, the slotted hole on our '93 E-350 was too far back to properly position the bar, and the end links would have been angled rearward. Since Hellwig lists this bar as fitting '76 - '06 E-350s, I suspect there are many different holes available for mounting to accommodate the wide year range. In my case, the forward hole was a perfect match for the supplied bolt and provided a near vertical end link.
I am glad it worked well for you guys, but using the large slotted hole on my brother's 1998 E350 worked perfect. The end links are still vertical and the sway bar is still horizontal and not hanging down so low either. The compensation for this was the angle of the rear mounting U-bolts. They mount at a seven or 8 o'clock position rearward which brings the bar up a little higher, and the brackets farther from the shocks. I looked at my 2007 Phoenix Cruiser with a HD Roadmaster bar, and it is also mounted at the 7-8 o'clock position. We got improved ground and shock clearence doing this.

ClemenP

Spangle, WA

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Posted: 05/05/10 11:44am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hmm, just might be worth a re-look.

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