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Topic: Replacemenrt of water line to ice maker in Dometic

Posted By: Texas Two Steppers on 05/10/10 06:24am

Is there an easy way to replace the water line to the ice maker in a Dometic or does the refer have to come out? I've never done this before, how difficult is it?


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Posted By: jetcare on 05/10/10 06:32am

About half the time the ice maker line is damaged at the bottom 12 inches, right before the water valve. You can just add a splice connnector and some new line and you are good to go. But, about half the time the line in just deterioriated and needs to be replaced. You need to slide the refrigerator out to get to the top unless you are lucky enough to work through the upper door if you have a slide. Sliding a single-wide refrigerator out is not a big job, it just looks like it.

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Posted By: aslakson on 05/10/10 06:35am

Pretty much have to pull the fridge, unless you have access to the rear of the entire unit or really really long arms - the water line usually runs from the bottom all the way to the top of the fridge.

Worse than that is changing it when the fridge is too big to remove without dismantling it. Replacing ours a couple years ago required a slim repairman to climb up into the vent space behind the refer, after we slid it forward as far as we could (it hit the wall on the other side of the hall). $17 in parts, $600 in labor.

Turn the water off to the ice maker and buy a little standalone unit - much less hassle.

al


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Posted By: Bigdog on 05/10/10 09:35am

Has anyone tried to pull the old line and slide a new one down thru the heat tape thingy? Could you pull the whole heat tape line out and drop a weighted line down thru the hole in the back of the freezer and then pull it thru that way..
Not cheap,just frugal. I don't really need it,but it would be nice to have it working and my repair guy mentioned a figure of around $400 just to replace the tube.. Kinda looks as if it may be permantly cut off at the filter connection.


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Posted By: YC 1 on 05/10/10 11:06am

You might be able to cut the head off of a large nail, insert that into the end of the old hose and the new hose and either glue it in place or use tape to hold them together so you can use the old hose as a pull string.


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Posted By: catervich on 07/18/10 06:10pm

Mine's a double-door Norcold unit in a Class A Dolphin. Replacing leaking water line steps I recently took were as follows.
1) disconnect all connections, e.g. gas, water, elec. via outside access door. 2) remove all anchoring screws at base of rear and those inside behind front/side molding. 3) Slide refer into coach (doors stay on)and use floor jack(s)* to support front as it emerges; continue moving refer inward and support rear on plasic milk crates with spacers as needed for proper height. 4) Remove the entire water line and replace with plastic "Pex" GE Smart Connect Universal Ice Maker Water Supply Line" (Home Depot $7.99, SKU #144837). Reverse steps 1-3 to reinstall. Don't try this w/o a capable helper, refer weighs about 300 lbs. Have several spacers on hand for top of jacks and crates; also, protect your RV floor with plywood. You may want to delete the OE heater wire, it deteriated my original line and fostered mold. *2 floor jacks are even better.


Posted By: Fulltimers on 05/10/10 09:59pm

I looked at mine, which needs to be replaced, and decided I might be able to get to the top connection through the roof vent.


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Posted By: Chris Bryant on 05/11/10 06:23am

The caveat is that you have to get to the top fitting, which is on the rear on some models, on the top on others. You then have to remove the hose clamp and reinstall it.
It's not a huge job, even though it is a pain- figure around 1 hour of labor (which is warranty time, and fair), though a side by side might be longer.
I normally just use the standard ice maker tubing after advising the customer that they must drain it in freezing weather (and giving them a choice).


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Posted By: dougrainer on 05/11/10 06:28am

1. IF you do snake it, HOW are you going to disconnect and connect the new hose to the upper connection???????
2. If the hose is off color (Not clear, but brownish) there is no way to splice and expect it to keep from leaking---The WHOLE hose is defective.
3. The ONLY way to not pull the refer is if it is in a slide and you have an upper door access and not a roof vent.
4. If you have a roof vent, then pulling it loose for access and then remounting and sealing it is a whole lot more trouble than pulling the refer.
5. As to the poster that wanted to know if you could pull the line thru the black insulated cover-NO, even if you could, go back to item 1. Doug


Posted By: Fulltimers on 05/11/10 08:59pm

dougrainer wrote:

4. If you have a roof vent, then pulling it loose for access and then remounting and sealing it is a whole lot more trouble than pulling the refer.
You only need to remove the roof vent cover. Then cut out the screen and when done use wire to sew the screen back in place.


Posted By: dougrainer on 05/11/10 09:05pm

Fulltimers wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

4. If you have a roof vent, then pulling it loose for access and then remounting and sealing it is a whole lot more trouble than pulling the refer.
You only need to remove the roof vent cover. Then cut out the screen and when done use wire to sew the screen back in place.


That is more work than pulling the refer. Doug


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