Thank you to all who responded to my questions. I really do appreciate this forum and the help it provides. I bought a new "Red" unit off eBay a few weeks ago. As stated in my earlier post, it ran a 1500 watt heater and a 1 HP Shop Vac. That's proof to me that my unit will prove at least 1700 watts continuously, which is 100 watts more than I was hoping it to do. I plan on using this genny to fill in for the times that I don't need to run the 13.5k A/C. My biggest concern was if it had the cahonies to run the 900 watt microwave and it appears that it does. The rest of the load (LED TV and a few LED lights) can be handled by the trailer batteries. I bought a Boily generator from a guy in California last year and had nothing but trouble with it. It would surge, shut off for no reason, and broke the nylon starting recoil assembly after the fourth time using it. It now sits in my garage waiting my repairs. I just don't have the confidence in the Boily to take it along with me as my only source of electricity. I know there are many who bought the genny and had no issues with theirs, but I did not have the same experience. In addition to the Champion Inverter, I have a 3500 open frame Champion which I can use for A/C if absolutely needed and a HF 1000 watt 2 stroke smoker. My wife just shakes her head in disbelief when I told her that I wanted to buy the red Champion. She asked me how many generators did I need. I told her only one...the right one..lol.
The following 3 posts were written by me in the Yahoo Honda eu2000 forum (dunno why they didn't like it... )
Post 1:
I know this is a forum about the Honda eu2000, but the following is my way to thank you guys for having helped me. If whoever is in charge of this forum prefers to delete my post, then please do so.
First let me say that I am located in Ontario, Canada. And a few days ago I bought the Champion 2000 inverter at Costco for $500. It has a built date of December 2011 and based on the serial number, it looks like it was made on December 23.
This thing is AWESOME!!!
Yesterday evening I was ready to return it to Costco. Yesterday was the first day that I used it and right after starting it, within 30 seconds, the engine burped. It burped on and off every few minutes. Champion advertise 9.5 hours at ΒΌ load, so I was eager to find out if it was true, as fuel can be impossible to find during a blackout.
So I connected my Kenmore 6.5 amps fridge to the generator. I was very
disappointed when it ran out of gas after 8 hours. And as pointed out by someone else in a youtube video, it does smell like burned plastic near the exhaust. Though there is nothing burned.
Today was day 2 of my testing. It started on the second pull and then I discovered that I had forgotten to set the eco switch ON yesterday! That's why there was so much vibration on my balcony. Yesterday it ran all day at full speed!
Then I got my kill-a-watt, a 1500 baseboard heater, a 12 amps circular saw and a 6.5 amps reciprocating saw. Believe it or not, but I only tripped the 14amps breaker when I reached 18.49 amps!!! I swear. I did t it twice. The only time the genny shut down is when I started both the circular saw and reciprocating saw within two seconds of each other.
I turned on the heater to max and got 1430 watts and then powered the circular saw and reach 1800 watts and slightly more than 1800 VA. The red overload light came on and stayed on the whole time. I did this twice and kept it for 30-40 seconds. I didn't want to do it any longer for three reasons: first, the noise was of the saw was deafening. Second, I didn't want to damage the genny. And third, I didn't want to kill my flashing kill-a-watt.
I tried the heater with the saw, the heater with the reciprocating saw and the two tools together and I was fine. I wouldn't advise running at more than the 14 amps of the breaker. But if you need more than 14 amps for a short period of time, you can do it. I ran at ~ 15.5amps for a minute or two. I think it was the heater and the saw together.
One thing very unfortunate I learned from reading that 214 pages thread (I'm only on page 189 now) is that the American models do not have a breaker. I would suggest Americans write to Champion Power Equipment and ask them to install one, just like they do for the Canadian version. The benefit is that it is a lot more pleasant to simply switch the breaker back on than having to restart the unit.
I didn't make a video as I'm not the most technologically advanced person. But if an absolute proof is needed, I guess I could try to do one and email to you.
Also, about the burping, today it was doing it very rarely. Nevertheless, I decided to add Chevron fuel system cleaner. The whole bottle is good for 15 (20?) gallons. So what I did is add about 1-2 ounces to the 3.8 L tank. I find it is burping less and less. Today I only ran it for 2-3 hours.
I just came back from Costco and purchased an additional two units. I will be testing them within the next few days, but I won't report on them unless someone specifically ask for it. I understand this is not a Champion 2000 inverter forum and I do not wish to upset anyone.
Again, thanks for all the help you have provided me with.
Post 2:
This is Honda eu2000 forum and I respect that. So this is my last post to this forum.
Like I said before, a few days ago I bought a Champion 2000 inverter for $500 at a Costco store in Ontario. After running some tests yesterday, I was so impressed that I went back to Costco and bought another two units.
All three units were built on December 23, 2011 and probably during the same shift if I look at the serial number.
A few hours ago I took out number 2 and 3 out of the box and they are now running. I ran some tests on those two and everything is fine.
When I took it out of the box, genny # 1 had a tiny, tiny amount of oil at the bottom of the unit. The gennys are run at the factory and then the oil is taken out. I guess they were a bit sloppy when they took the oil out. Number 2 and 3 had no oil whatsoever at the bottom inside the genny.
Also, at the factory the oil is removed using a vacuum and it leaves a very small amount of oil inside the unit. So when you add the 0.4 L of oil before running it the first time, you will make a mess as it won't fit. So for unit 2 and 3 I first drained the oil out of the genny before adding my 0.4L of oil.
Genny number 1 was burping on an irregular basis at any speed. I decided to add Chevron fuel system cleaner and the problem is completely gone. I added about an ounce or two to the 3.8 L tank. Genny number 2 and 3 do not burp whatsoever. Engine is always running at the same speed, no hiccup, nothing abnormal.
This morning, before taking care of genny 2 and 3, I went back to genny # 1 for more testing. I used an 11amp circular saw, a 6,5 amp reciprocating saw, a 1500 W hair dryer, a 14 amps air compressor and a 1500 baseboard heater.
I was astonished when I saw 20.4 amps for 2-3 seconds on the kill-a-watt when I attempted to run the 14 amps air compressor. The compressor never reached full speed and the genny died after about 4-6 seconds. I did not repeat the test as I am not interested to blow up the genny. 20.4 amps is 2400 watts
Using a combination of hair dryer and baseboard heater, I repeatedly got 1950 watts for 5-10 seconds before the breaker tripped. 1800 watts can be sustained for 20-40 seconds (the longest I tested). Naturally the overload light is on.
I used the hair dryer pulling 1430 watts and the variable speed reciprocating saw. What I was able to observe is that I can sustain 1730 watts indefinitely before the overload light comes on.
A few videos were taken and if anyone is interested, I could email them to you. I do not have a video of all my tests I did.
There is no doubt that the Champion is slightly less powerful than a Honda eu2000. Those who need more power than what the Champion can offer should then spend more than $1K and buy the Honda or Yamaha. For the others, they can spend $500 and get a great genny.
Five years ago I bought my first generator to be used in case of prolonged blackout. It is a Honda eu2000. I ran it for 20 hours with loads over a 3 day period and then prepared it for long term storage. It is kept in its box in the furnace room. Temp is ~ 72F and humidity is low (running a dehumidifier during summer). So I haven't touched it in almost 5 years. But from what I recall, (you guys can say if I'm correct), when going from eco mode to a huge demand for
power, doesn't the eu2000 cut the power for a second or two? I seem to recall that. In any case, the Champion never cuts power. I saw the voltage drop to 99 volts, but electricity was always flowing.
Also, because of the usage I am making of the genny, the 3 year warranty is almost useless to me. All I care is that it works fine when I get it home and after that it's back in its box. We have different needs and different usage for generators. Some will absolutely need a Honda or a Yamaha. But for some a Champion will fit very nicely.
At least Champion has demonstrated that you can get a well performing genny for $500.
Post 3:
Ok one more thing, I just checked and I was able to run a sustain 1860 VA without creating an overload. I started the circular saw, then added the hair dryer at medium heat and then added the reciprocating saw at full speed. I was pulling a continous 1860 VA without the overload light coming on. I kept it for at least one minute. My ears can attest to that.
I wanted to know, has anyone checked/adjusted the valve clearance as per the 100 hours maintenace schedule? And how is it done? Thanks.
I can see how you're not going to be a fan favorite on the Honda EU2000 forum...lol. Anyhow, I ran a 1500 watt heater and my 1 hp Shop Vac (6.2amp rating on the label) and never lit the overload light. Obviously the vac was not drawing the amps on the label, but to the best of my guesstimation, it was pulling at least 2-3 amps which is roughly 240-360 watts. Add that to the 1500 watts from the portable heater and I'm a happy man with a quiet genny that sips gas, costs half of a Honda, and holds at least 1700 watts continuously. What's not to like about that?
Has anyone checked/adjusted the valve clearance as per the 100 hours maintenace schedule? And how is it done?
Also, in response to my Champion thread in the Honda eu2000 forum, someone wrote the following:
More interesting than the output level (which was great to hear about ) would be to see how durable the heads and valve assembly are, and what type of interval you need to make adjustments in.
I had heard from a fellow Glamis camper that uses exptended run tanks that his experience was that these units have "soft" valve seats and that at the 3-500 hour mark the valves pound up into the seat a substantial amount.
This "issue" results in the need to frequently check the clearance or one risks the exhaust valve not setting properly/fully on the seat with the result being a burned valve.
Thanks for your report.
Uncle Dave
Does anyone know the specific of the valves on this genny?
The folks at CPE might want to inform the shop printing the box for the Candian version of the 2000 inverter that there is a small mistake under the 53 DBA...
MrRchitty wrote: There are 4 bolts, one each in side of the tops of those legs, our corner pieces. They form cups. I believe, you need a 10mm sized wrench to remove them. Once removed, you can remove the handle, then each of those corner pieces slides up and out of the way exposing the bolts to the rear or exhaust panel.
Actually, I do not remember them sliding up. Once the handle is removed the four corner pieces are pulled off by pulling the top corners straight out - they are friction fit into grommets.
If yours come off by pulling up it is possible there was a design change.
One more thing - be sure to put the corner pieces back in their original location so the labeling matches up. Also, when replacing the black handle be sure you do not rotate it 180 degrees. It is possible, and if you do the handle position interferes with the gas cap.
Ooops. You are right. Been a little bit.
Randall J. Chittenden
CT
Fire/Medic
Former Auto Parts Sales 12 years
Bernadette Shoe wrote: Like I wrote in my first post:
Has anyone checked/adjusted the valve clearance as per the 100 hours maintenace schedule? And how is it done?
Also, in response to my Champion thread in the Honda eu2000 forum, someone wrote the following:
More interesting than the output level (which was great to hear about ) would be to see how durable the heads and valve assembly are, and what type of interval you need to make adjustments in.
I had heard from a fellow Glamis camper that uses exptended run tanks that his experience was that these units have "soft" valve seats and that at the 3-500 hour mark the valves pound up into the seat a substantial amount.
This "issue" results in the need to frequently check the clearance or one risks the exhaust valve not setting properly/fully on the seat with the result being a burned valve.
Thanks for your report.
Uncle Dave
.
Does anyone know the specific of the valves on this genny?
Bernie,
If you look at the beginning of this thread till today, there is quite a time span. I would think that if anyone had any issue with a valve hammering a seat, it would have surfaced on here. Secondly, Champion is not new to building/designing gensets. There's not much financial gain in eliminating heat treating a valve seat.
I'm sure that there are many owners with more than 300-500 hours on their units.
Myself, it would probably take me 6+ years to hit that many hours as my usage is very casual. I have to meet my brother for breakfast in a half hour, but if no one responds back to you on how to adjust the valves, I will walk you through it.
Bernie,
If you look at the beginning of this thread till today, there is quite a time span. I would think that if anyone had any issue with a valve hammering a seat, it would have surfaced on here. Secondly, Champion is not new to building/designing gensets. There's not much financial gain in eliminating heat treating a valve seat.
I'm sure that there are many owners with more than 300-500 hours on their units.
Myself, it would probably take me 6+ years to hit that many hours as my usage is very casual. I have to meet my brother for breakfast in a half hour, but if no one responds back to you on how to adjust the valves, I will walk you through it.
I like to follow the instructions. So nobody after can blame me if something goes wrong because I didn't follow the instructions!
My usage for those 3 generators will be strictly for providing electricity to my house during prolonged blackouts. I will be using two genny together and the third one is the backup to my backup system. If there is a blackout lasting more than a week, it will only take a few days to reach 100 hours. So I might reach the 300-500 hrs sooner than expected.
I know very little about engines. So I would be very grateful if you or someone else could walk me through the maintenance of the valve. Thanks.
Bernie,
Here's a You Tube video which shows how to adjust the valves. Although the engine is a vertical OHV Briggs, the process is the same. Make sure that the engine is cold and that you use the correct setting (feeler gauge) for the valve lash.
Has anyone converted a Champion 2000 inverter to natural gas? If not, can it be done and how?
Did you break-in the engine? If so, did you use 'regular' oil instead of synthetic? And how long did you run the unit at less than 50% power for the break-in?
This thread is really quiet. Or maybe it is because I spent every evening until 1am during a full week reading the 215 pages.
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