So, what do you guy's think of the picture? I am afraid that the non use could be a problem. My brother in law left my old 1996 tt(sold it to him 5 years ago) ouside for 2 years and then pulled it to Branson only to change out all the bearings in Springfield with 3 little kids and a grumpy wife watching. Yikes.
I wonder if the hitch can support a pretty good pull. I am wondering what kind of file exist on the unit? As mentioned above it is all stock. NADA shows retail at about 8K with about 2K being a bump up for low miles.
NADA also showed a MTB model?? I have no clue what that means, but it had a higher price. He said he camped with a guy who had the same unit and said this one had the improved head gasket and fuel injected throttle body. Any other specs I should be looking for. What kind of generator is on board?? He said it was not the onan, but he could not remember what it was.
If you could get it for what NADA says it's worth (or less) it would be a good deal. Have the mechanicals checked out by a competent mechanic and change all fluids, hoses, belts and tires . It looks to be well cared for which puts it ahead of the game . Just keep in mind it will take a couple thousand $$ to get it back on the road....
Mom , Dad , Scooter & K.C ( killer cat )
'96 F350 4dr. Dually, 7.3 5sp.
'92 Holiday Rambler 34'
REAL TRUCKS DON'T HAVE SPARKPLUGS !
I was in the same situation this past spring. My wife and I decided to try rv'ing, and were looking for a good used motorhome and settled on a 33 ft 1994 Damon Challenger with about 29k on it.
We love it. The previous owner had purchased it a year prior from an older gentleman who didn't use it much - only had 19k on it.
The big ticket items were replaced before we got it - tires, brakes, batteries, and he replaced all the carpet with clickfloor.
We have the Ford version which is heavier built than the Chev (front and rear springs, as well as frame are heavier)
Ford is 10 bolt wheel, and Chev is 5. The Ford has a 8000 lb towing capacity as compared to 3500 for Chev. (I have the 1994 Ford F-Super Duty Class A Motorhome Chassis literature)
Damons are a well-built motorhome - easy to drive. I would suggest taking it to a reputable motorhome dealer and have it checked over. If tires are more than 5 years old, they should be replaced.
I have a friend that has a Winnebego with 454 motor and he gets about 10 to 12 miles per gallon and has travelled extensively with it and it has been reliable.
I always add Lucas oil treatment to the motors of my vehicles.
As far as price, Camping World had a 1993 33ft Damon (without mileage listed) for I think 29 thousand and it was reduced to 24 thousand - and I didn't pay close to that
I revived an older motorhome.... It was a project, but the outcome is great.
The pics look nice -- at least this MH isn't trashed and beat up. You'll need $3500 cash for new tires, alignment, fluids, brakes, shocks, belts, and a good tune up. Then your drivetrain will be ready to work. Just plan on doing it all when you buy the rig so those items are not a question mark.
As far as the RV parts, the gen and refrig are expensive parts fixes are $350simple -$600medium-$1500-$2000 replacement. Roof top A/Cs and furnaces are $800. Batteries, water tanks, pumps, those are couple hundred bucks. Anyway, see if all that stuff works properly.
$12,500 is an OK price. $9000 is better. $8000 is a steal. Use that $3500 service as a bargaining chip.
Looks like the previous posts indicate you have a 3500lbs tow capacity. Lots of toads fit that profile.
1992 Seven Seas by Cobra
Overhauled & Customized.
Vacation rig for DW, DS(11),DS(10),DS(7)and a mighty Maltese.
Fav mod=Hott Rodd elec water heater - no propane!.
Jeep Cherokee toad w/Excali-bar and ReadyBrake
2011 nights camped=1, plan=20 (broken leg)
Two great responses. I plan to go see the unit tomorrow. My wife's uncle looked at it for us and said it was real clean, but he had concerns that if the owner will not negotiate on his price, he may just give it to his kids. I'll bet the kids have no clue what that would involve. Anyway, I agree with the 8K steal, and 9K as kinda of o.k.
I thought it would make a great project unit to see if the wife and i even like the whole motor home concept. Yes, like most of you it is something you did not know you needed until you have it.. Well, I just paid off the '04 Burb and the '05 tt and wanted to see what this was all about before i sink 100K into some unit and still get 6.5mpg. My time off is limited so we only pull a 23ft which gives us room to still camp in the National Parks.
Thanks for your comments.
Check the engine, transmission, and diff for leaks. Then take if for at least a 50 mile drive. Then recheck for leaks. Ask the owner to let you park it your driveway (or, better, stay in a local campground overnight). Check out all the systems in the process.
I'm in the process of replacing my MH's kitchen and bathroom faucets as seals have dried out sitting over winter and due to general age.
If things check out, it's not a bad deal.
2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U on a Ford chassis, 80,000 miles
2003 Ford Explorer toad with Ready Brake supplemental brakes,
Ready Brute tow bar, and Demco base plate.
I would pass on it just because it lacks a full basement. Don't know what you're planning on doing with it, but for me a full basement is a must have item.
As far as price, I would think low NADA without the mileage allowance would be a good price for you. Remember that to sell a class A is not too easy, and I doubt that buyers are knocking down his door.
Don't forget to check out the roof. A very costly item to have replaced. I'm sure all the joints need to be resealed, and hopefully that will be the extent of it.
I think the '96 year was the first for MPFI and the Vortec. Prior to that I think they were all TBI (throttle body) with only one injector for the engine. I think you will find 3500# as the max tow limit.
2003 Newmar Mountain Aire, Workhorse W22, 2008 Saturn Vue, Falcon 5250, & US Gear Unified Tow Brake