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Topic: Replacing toilet (blade seal) Update

Posted By: jf504mp on 08/12/10 01:47pm

Sometime this past week, the blade seal in my toilet started leaking. Now the water in the toilet bowl slowly leaks out into the black tank.

I bought a new seal but have no idea of how to replace it. There doesn't seem to be,at least to me, anyway to take the top off the toilet to get to the seal. It might come off easily if there were room. The blade that holds the water in the bowl won't move far enough to simply pull out the old seal and put in a new one.

I have the Thetford Aqua-magic IV, hand flush style.

Has anyone out there had to replace one of these seal? Some help would be greatly appretiated.....John

I followed a suggestion given to me in here and so far it is working.
I tightened up the stool bolts and the blade seal leak stopped. It has been about two hours and still holding.

I am going out on Sunday next week for a few days and that will be the real test. I'll keep you all posted, since I know you are loosing sleep over this. LOL [emoticon] Thanks again for all your help....John

* This post was edited 08/13/10 06:33am by jf504mp *

Posted By: sharker6 on 08/12/10 02:00pm

Here's some downloads you can use. They may help.


2017 Keystone Cougar 29RES, 2008 F250 Diesel FX4

Posted By: 74alex on 08/12/10 04:08pm

Presumably you have tried to clean the seal with a gloved finger and lubricated the seal with vaseline. If that does not work you have no choice but to remove the toilet and dismantle it. I did that 3 years ago. Same toilet, Aqua MagicIV
Before you start you must download the parts list and the exploded view of all parts.Without it, you will have a heck of a time to reassemblr the thing. I'll be qouting part no's.
After removing the toilet, remove the 9 screws that hold the base to the bowl. It should come apart, but it won't.There is a u shaped seal that holds the base and bowl together. No.10 It is a butyl putty strip that fits in the bottom of the U. The same stuff that is used at the outside trailer moulding.Apply steady pressure between base and bowl and it will slowly come apart.Before removing the old seal and blade take some pictures, it will help in reassembling.
Be careful, once it comes apart,you will find three springs laying on the floor and you will not know where they came from. They are different sizes.One, no 11 fits under the blade, the other 2 hold the actuator assembly, no 6 in place. Once you figure out how to reassemble the thing with the springs in place, I suggest to mate base to bowl without the new seal no 10. That way you can check for proper operation of the blade without having to pry it apart again.
You will have to hand roll a thin putty strip to make a seal.I used a lot less than was there originally. The whole operation is not difficult, just tedious. I thought I'd pass on those things you will not find in the manual.
Wishing you a pleasant afternoon fixing this.

Posted By: Spade Cooley on 08/12/10 04:31pm

After reading the reply from 73Alex I think I better leave that job to the experts.

Posted By: SidKaye on 08/12/10 08:42pm

Spade Cooley wrote:

After reading the reply from 73Alex I think I better leave that job to the experts.

If you leave the job to the experts it will likely cost more to repair than to replace with a new one. Replacing a new one is quite simple. Two bolts and a water connection at the back. Check out and review your options. You can also replace just the mechanism which is already assembled and involves removing the toilet..2 bolts and water connection. Then R&R the mechanism. It is a good idea to look at the schematic to understand the various parts.
There is also the possibility that just snugging up the "closet bolts" will compress the seal and stop the leaking...try this first, but not too tight as you risk cracking the base....just a turn or two and test.

2003 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT,48RE, 4:10,Cummins HO Diesel,Quad Cab,LWB,SRW,PacBrake,Prodigy, X-Monitor Gauges,Line-X,Bedsaver

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Posted By: HighCover on 08/12/10 08:49pm

I'd replace the whole toilet.

2010 F-150, 5.4L, 3.73
2011 Edge M17

Posted By: stripit on 08/12/10 10:14pm

I've full timed in my rig for almost 7 years and have never had to replace the seal. I've pulled it out many times and cleaned the calcium that builds up on the rubber from hard water, then reinstalled it. It is really a simple repair and might take 15 minutes if that to remove, clean and reinstall. Before you replace the whole toilet,try to fix it. You might learn something new and then be able to help someone else.

Stacey Frank
'07 Winnabago Class C
'08 Lexus 400H
'15 Cadillac SRX
Blue Ox towing system

Posted By: tspecs on 08/14/10 04:08pm

The KISS solution to this problem is to spray a bit of silicone lube on the blade and operate it a few times.


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