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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > Axle hub leak

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don b

Allentown,Pa

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Posted: 08/27/10 08:06am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am experiencing a rear axle hub oil leak on my Workhorse chassis. The leak is directly under where the flange meets the housing. I think I already know the answer to part of my question but will just need confirmation from a pro. The hub has 8 bolt pattern, #22 wrench size, and I am wishing and hoping the cover just comes off and I could replace the gasket or seal that is right under the eight bolt flange, and not have to pull the axle. I am almost certain this is the axle assembly and it needs to be pulled to replace the gasket. I don't know how much of a job the axle removal would be and if it just a matter of pulling it out or if I need to go into differential to release some clips. I am not into that type of repair if it is required and would like to know just what would be required for this job and also a ball park figure to have it done at a dealer. The axle has Spicer on it if this helps at all. Thanks in advance for any info. Don.


2003 Dolphin Model 5380, Workhorse 8.1, 04 Honda CRV, Brake Buddy, Blue Ox, Banks System, Garmin 7200.


1fastdad

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Posted: 08/27/10 08:25am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Make sure you are on a nice level spot, block the front wheels, raise the wheel in question off the ground,have a pan to catch the oil and remove the bolts and axle. Clean both surfaces real good and make sure they are free of any oil. Replace the gasket with a thin coat of adhesive silicon sealer(I prefer to just use the sealer and no gasket)and reinstall the axle. Torque the bolts to the specs. drive the unit about 5 miles and then refill the diff. While your at it retorque the bolt on the other side.

whem2fish

alvarado texas

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Posted: 08/27/10 08:26am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

have don a lot of large trucks if the leak is on the outermost part of the axel its easy remove the bolts permatex reassemble your done the other place would be the seal in back of hub-drum assembly you wont remove rear end differential pan with the outermost cover removed the axel- hub is held in usualy with a clip that will hild a key in then remove the nut that preloads the bearings remove brake assy. replace seal drum assy will be heavy you could do a side easy in 4 hours
dave

garry1p

Oklahoma

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Posted: 08/27/10 09:43am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I paid $120 to have mine done (one side) also the brake pad may have to be replaced if it is saturated in oil.


Garry1p


1990 Holiday Rambler Aluma Lite XL
454 on P-30 Chassis
1999 Jeep Cherokee sport


zmotorsports

Utah

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Posted: 08/27/10 01:27pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you have wheel simulators there is no need to remove tires/wheels on the axle. Drive the side that is leaking up on a couple of 2"x6"s or whatever available to lean the axle away from the side it is leaking. Remove the wheel simulator (usually every other lug nut holds the simulator on) and you will have access to the 8 bolts holding the axle shaft into the housing. Remove the 8 bolts and slide the axle out for cleaning. The reason to elevate the axle on that side is to minimize oil loss while performing the repair. Clean the mounting surface on the hub and reassemble in reverse order remembering to check the oil level after completion.

If it has aluminum wheels then you will have to jack the leaking side up and support with a jackstand because you will have to remove the wheels. The center caps are held in place from behind the aluminum wheels vs. s/s simulators are held in position by every other lug nut. Mike.


2003 Monaco Dynasty/ 26' Haulmark Edge trailer
2011 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon


JRtraveler8

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Posted: 08/27/10 05:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We had our left rear axle seal replaced at a certified workhorse service and it cost just a little over $83.00. They did the work in 3 hours.

don b

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Posted: 08/28/10 06:17am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you for all the advice/suggestions on how to do the job. I was surprised at the low price for the three hour fix at the Workhorse dealer, our local gets 80+ per hour labor alone. Thanks again guys, Don.

tropical36

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Posted: 08/28/10 10:08am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRtraveler8 wrote:

We had our left rear axle seal replaced at a certified workhorse service and it cost just a little over $83.00. They did the work in 3 hours.

Did you have a warranty? Was this the total cost or over and above what the warranty covered, assuming you had one?


"We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey."

1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Model 6350 on a 1997 Chevy P32
Chassis_7.4 Vortec Engine_4L80E Tranny_slide_tag axle.

Dinghy_2010 Jeep Wrangler JKU ISLANDER.


dcbrewer

kentucky

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Posted: 08/29/10 07:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was thinking 3 hours was a long time for a axle seal, maybe a hour!!!

ArchHoagland

Clovis, CA, USA

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Posted: 08/29/10 10:09pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mine was about $150 at Workhorse dealer. Driver's side rear seal.


2004 Monaco La Palma 36DBD
Workhorse W22 8.1 Gas Allison 1000, 7.1 mpg

2000 LEXUS RX300 FWD 22MPG 4020 LBS
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