For those in more of a hurry... feel free to bypass the novel and scroll right down to the pictures below...
Well my PD converter budget was necessarily diverted. A few months back, my 4D went to battery heaven. I think I subconsciously ran it out of water though, as I was ready for an upgrade in capacity!
Based on the measurements of my battery box, I decided that..
A. Golf Cart batteries were going to be too risky with my height restriction and metal lid!!! I figured I could rubberize the lid, but it was just too sketchy. We're talking a half inch clearance and the steel plate that the batteries sit on IS a little flexible and IS prone to a little bounce.
B. I could fit 3 batteries of some type. No more.
So with the fact that we mostly weekend it, and my desire for max capacity while boondocking, I decided that I would fit the largest batteries in the box that I could. Of course they would have to be 12V with the odd number.
After discovering that Walmart no longer warranties their marine batteries, I decided to make the half hour trip to Costco and bought 3 of their group 27s for, I think $68.88 each, plus core. Unfortunately they only gave me one core for the 4D. I had another so I ended up paying an extra 10 bucks or so for just the one.
Still... not bad.
And after going round and round with pianotuna over connecting the three in parallel, in a "balanced manner," I decided that I would be the guinea pig for an experiment using the "improper" method # 2 vs. 3 or 4 in the link below. At least I know enough not to employ method #1!
I contend that with my 2/0 cables, the voltage drop should be so minute, that little to no difference will be recorded. I do have some backup on this, but it's for another thread. We'll see what the meter says in the real world.
As you can see, my new cables from genuinedealz.com fit perfectly! The handles aren't ideally located, but I'm hoping to not have to add water more than once or twice a year. We'll see how it goes.
There's a hair of room on the left, but not even close to enough for a 4th battery. The chassis battery is on the right. I wanted a gap between all of them for cooling, but they may move around a little, even though they're strapped in pretty tight. We'll see.
The 4 batteries are shifted to the right which makes filling the starting battery a little more difficult. But I just topped it for the first time in 5 years and it didn't take much. So I'm not too concerned. At least I can check it easy enough.
With the positive lead to the house at the upper right battery/terminal, the negative lead is at the lower left battery/terminal. The batteries are shifted to the right so I can easily disconnect the lower left negative lead.
Since I've been too busy to actually USE the rig... THIS and my LED light swap is about all the fun I've had with the old gal this year.
But come Hell or "high water"... we're goin' crabbin' next weekend!!!
Funny. I'll bet good money that this rig came stock with a chassis battery and a single group 24 mounted horizontally in that box. And imagine the fun I had hauling that 4D in and out of there! I guess it's good that at least it wasn't an 8D!
* This post was
edited 09/06/10 01:25pm by KendallP *
1986 Winnebago Chieftain 22RC
Our Camper (with no payments)
Nice looking fit. A new starting battery could have looked good in there to replace the 5 year old one.
I would like to do the PD thing ASAP but other projects are getting time/money right now.
Starting battery is showing no signs of weakness.
When it does... I'll have 3 others... a generator... and 2 high amp, portable charger/starters to back it up!
Thanks! You just gave me another reason to feel good about my portables vs. the PD that I can't yet afford!
Our starting battery was shot when be bought the MH over three years ago but with the B&D Desulf Mode I reclaimed but now I think it just just a drag on the starter and alternator. If our key is turned on the house and starting batteries function as ONE.