KendallP
Grants Pass, OR
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For those in more of a hurry... feel free to bypass the novel and scroll right down to the pictures below...
Well my PD converter budget was necessarily diverted. A few months back, my 4D went to battery heaven. I think I subconsciously ran it out of water though, as I was ready for an upgrade in capacity!
Based on the measurements of my battery box, I decided that..
A. Golf Cart batteries were going to be too risky with my height restriction and metal lid!!! I figured I could rubberize the lid, but it was just too sketchy. We're talking a half inch clearance and the steel plate that the batteries sit on IS a little flexible and IS prone to a little bounce.
B. I could fit 3 batteries of some type. No more.
So with the fact that we mostly weekend it, and my desire for max capacity while boondocking, I decided that I would fit the largest batteries in the box that I could. Of course they would have to be 12V with the odd number.
After discovering that Walmart no longer warranties their marine batteries, I decided to make the half hour trip to Costco and bought 3 of their group 27s for, I think $68.88 each, plus core. Unfortunately they only gave me one core for the 4D. I had another so I ended up paying an extra 10 bucks or so for just the one.
Still... not bad.
And after going round and round with pianotuna over connecting the three in parallel, in a "balanced manner," I decided that I would be the guinea pig for an experiment using the "improper" method # 2 vs. 3 or 4 in the link below. At least I know enough not to employ method #1!
http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html
I contend that with my 2/0 cables, the voltage drop should be so minute, that little to no difference will be recorded. I do have some backup on this, but it's for another thread. We'll see what the meter says in the real world.
As you can see, my new cables from genuinedealz.com fit perfectly! The handles aren't ideally located, but I'm hoping to not have to add water more than once or twice a year. We'll see how it goes.
There's a hair of room on the left, but not even close to enough for a 4th battery. The chassis battery is on the right. I wanted a gap between all of them for cooling, but they may move around a little, even though they're strapped in pretty tight. We'll see.
The 4 batteries are shifted to the right which makes filling the starting battery a little more difficult. But I just topped it for the first time in 5 years and it didn't take much. So I'm not too concerned. At least I can check it easy enough.
With the positive lead to the house at the upper right battery/terminal, the negative lead is at the lower left battery/terminal. The batteries are shifted to the right so I can easily disconnect the lower left negative lead.
Since I've been too busy to actually USE the rig... THIS and my LED light swap is about all the fun I've had with the old gal this year.
But come Hell or "high water"... we're goin' crabbin' next weekend!!!
Funny. I'll bet good money that this rig came stock with a chassis battery and a single group 24 mounted horizontally in that box. And imagine the fun I had hauling that 4D in and out of there! I guess it's good that at least it wasn't an 8D!
Cheers
* This post was
edited 09/06/10 01:25pm by KendallP *
Cheers,
Kendall
1986 Winnebago Chieftain 22RC
Our Camper (with no payments)
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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Joined: 07/22/2007
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Nice looking fit. A new starting battery could have looked good in there to replace the 5 year old one.
I would like to do the PD thing ASAP but other projects are getting time/money right now.
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KendallP
Grants Pass, OR
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Gale Hawkins wrote:Nice looking fit. A new starting battery could have looked good in there to replace the 5 year old one.
I would like to do the PD thing ASAP but other projects are getting time/money right now.
Thanks!
Starting battery is showing no signs of weakness.
When it does... I'll have 3 others... a generator... and 2 high amp, portable charger/starters to back it up!
Thanks! You just gave me another reason to feel good about my portables vs. the PD that I can't yet afford!
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BFL13
Victoria, BC
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Looks good. A post-mounted battery disconnect switch on the neg post might save you some bother.
2003 Chev 2500HD Gas, 2003 Komfort 26FS 5er
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smkettner
Southern California
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The balance will be fine. That set up is beautiful, better than a pair of 6ers IMO
Go ahead and get the 80amp PD when the budget works out. 
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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KendallP wrote:Gale Hawkins wrote:Nice looking fit. A new starting battery could have looked good in there to replace the 5 year old one.
I would like to do the PD thing ASAP but other projects are getting time/money right now.
Thanks!
Starting battery is showing no signs of weakness.
When it does... I'll have 3 others... a generator... and 2 high amp, portable charger/starters to back it up!
Thanks! You just gave me another reason to feel good about my portables vs. the PD that I can't yet afford!
Our starting battery was shot when be bought the MH over three years ago but with the B&D Desulf Mode I reclaimed but now I think it just just a drag on the starter and alternator.  If our key is turned on the house and starting batteries function as ONE.
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BFL13
Victoria, BC
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I don't know MHs but why can't you replace the starting battery with a fourth 27 and use the whole bank for both jobs?
Those 27s are the same as mine except for being one ah size down 115 vs 120 and mine are labelled "deep cycle/starting" (probably meant for a boat)
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KendallP
Grants Pass, OR
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BFL13 wrote:Looks good. A post-mounted battery disconnect switch on the neg post might save you some bother.
It might. It's not much different now, though, and there is probably a hair less resistance this way. And I prefer not to have too many hurdles if I'm to win the bet with pianotuna.
I use a pair of pliers to ratchet down the thumb screws and of course, to break 'em for spinning back off. It might cost me a few seconds over on of those disconnects. But still... that's on my list.
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KendallP
Grants Pass, OR
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smkettner wrote:The balance will be fine. That set up is beautiful, better than a pair of 6ers IMO
Go ahead and get the 80amp PD when the budget works out.
The 70 would fit without any modification and it looks like the I've got the room behind the power box to cut a square hole and fit the 80.
Or... since they have a device for it, I might just opt to run to IOTA 45s in parallel! That might bring a chuckle or two from some folks around these parts, eh?
.
* This post was
edited 09/06/10 09:20am by KendallP *
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BFL13
Victoria, BC
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KendallP wrote:....
I use a pair of pliers to ratchet down the thumb screws and of course, to break 'em for spinning back off. It might cost me a few seconds over on of those disconnects. But still... that's on my list.
First thing I would do, being such a spaz, is drop the wingnut down into the battery box and spend the rest of the day getting it back.
Also once you have a good connection all sprayed with that stuff, you don't want to undo it all the time.
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