Roadrunner275
Tennessee
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I just want to thank 12thgenusa for this excellent mod. I just got done installing on our Suburban range and love it. My wife and I do lots of baking and are full-timers. If there was a place to vote for best rv mod of the 21st century, it would have my vote, with the Weber Q grill mod being a distant 2nd place. Thank you so very much.
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firecapt1
Sonoma County, CA
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Joined: 11/28/2007
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Roadrunner275,
What mod for the Weber Q are you referring to? I've got one and anything I can do to make it better would be great!
Maybe you could provide a link to the mod?
Thanks
Frank, Martha & Ryan
2007 Ford F-250 SD Crew Cab
2006 Cougar 289EFS
Happy Trails to you, until we meet again! 
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Roadrunner275
Tennessee
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Here's a link.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24998080.cfm
It's a mod to allow the grill to be connected to the low pressure LP line that are pre-plumbed on many RVs. It's very simple and costs about $38. I ordered the 2 parts from Amazon. A Camco quick disconnect hose, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024E62OI/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1320989192&sr=8-1 and a Camco Olympian gas valve http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024E62CU/ref=mp_s_a_3?qid=1320989336&sr=8-3 . I removed the gas valve and regulator from the grill, and then removed the regulator from the gas valve. I took the new Camco Olympian gas valve and removed the male quick connect fitting from it and threaded right onto the Webe
r Q gas valve. Use some gas rated teflon tape on the threads of course. Reinstall the valve on the grill. Done. Hook the quick connect hose up and you are ready to grill. It seemed that when I researched doing this mod that some people struggled with getting the right parts. The Camco parts worked perfect with no extra, unneeded fittings. I don't know why but my favorite mods involve food in one way or another???
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firecapt1
Sonoma County, CA
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Thanks Roadrunner!
Unfortunately (fortunately?) I don't have a low pressure line on our rig. I just use a a Stay Flow system (Stay Flow Adapter) to supply my Weber or any other propane appliance.
I agree on the food related mods, I am always looking for something to help me cook, either inside or outside!
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Roadrunner275
Tennessee
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Next week is slide-out organizers in the food pantry. I do see a pattern developing.
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firecapt1
Sonoma County, CA
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Replace that lousy bulb above the stove (part of the light/fan assembly) with one of these: High Power 36-1210 SMD LED Festoon Dome Bulb Warm White and your DW will be overjoyed!
It worked so well that I replaced the bulb over the sink in the bathroom/vanity area and she is ecstatic. Says she can now see well enough to put on her makeup.
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Roadrunner275
Tennessee
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Did that one already. Installed aimable LED track lighting above stove at the edge of slide out. Also installed under kitchen cabinet adjacent to stovetop. Hooked it all to the switch that used to go to that little crappy light, you know the one that sits next to the switch for the loud crappy fan in the exhaust hood.
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LAdams
Northern Illinois
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Joined: 10/06/2000
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I've done the over the stove light mod as well but did mine with a 34 LED Command Electronics module... We can actually see what we are cooking now  LB
Les
2000 Ford F-250SD, XLT, 4X4 Off Road, SuperCab
w/ 6.8L (415 C.I.) V-10/3:73LS/4R100
Banks Power Pack w/Trans Command & OttoMind
Sold Trailer - not RV'ing at this point in time
HUNTER THERMOSTAT INSTALL
HOME MADE WHEEL CHOCKS
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Roadrunner275
Tennessee
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Like Ron White said ... The food got better when he told the wife that the smoke alarm wasn't a cooking timer.
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Bob Vaughn
Seffner, Fl.
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Joined: 06/19/2007
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jlaustin wrote:12thgenusa wrote:John, my electrode just has a single point, so the spark jumps from the point to ground. There is no ground wire. If your electrode has two points that the spark jumps across, then you would power one side and ground the other to the stove. Do you have the PN of the electrode so I could look it up and see what it looks like?
BWT I recommend that you open the oven door when you light the pilot so you can verify when it lights. I've found that I can see the reflection of the spark and the reflection of the pilot when it lights on the bottom of the oven without bending to actually see the flame.
The igniter is a Char-Broil "Hot Shot Performance Igniter" Model 4681 PN3497632. It has a single-point electrode. The supplied ground wire doesn't go to the electrode, it goes to a metal "cage" that can be installed on a grill burner to gather gas for the electrode to ignite. Of course, if the stove's pilot is metal and grounded to the stove, then I "assume" that the spark would jump to the pilot. In any event, the electronic module needs to be grounded to the stove, correct? (A ground wire is supplied for that, too.)
Here's a pic:
It's not very clear from the picture, but the red wire goes from the button to the single electrode. The triangular "cage" is meant to be used on gas grills to gather gas and the electrode is bolted within it. The black ground wire goes from the button unit to the metal "cage". The electrode is easily removeable from the "cage" and could be bolted in proximity to the pilot and let the spark jump to the pilot.
Don't worry, I would NEVER attempt to ignite any sort of gas within an enclosed space! I definitely would have the oven door open during an ignition attempt ... it's just that when I manually lit the pilot, I had to stay within an arm's reach! At least this will let me "back off" a bit!
This is the one I purchased but the wires are way to short to reach to the oven burner. How do I extend these wires safely to the oven?
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