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 > NORCOLD RECALL

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dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 11/26/10 11:14am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cloud Dancer wrote:

The reason I went for it (this last recall) is because of the fire issue.
But, I fully understand Norcold's 'business protection' angle. And, I'm sure glad they did it.

I can't help but to feel sorry for the shops, and RV owners, who will become trapped when the RV owner takes it to a shop for diagnosing a shut-down caused by this new thermocouple device. If the RV owner decides they don't want to have it repaired at that shop, is the shop going to protect themselves by not allowing a knowingly dangerous Norcold refrigerator to leave? Is there an assumed liability?


I understand what your question is after reading again. NO, any shop has NO liability if the customer leaves and does not have it fixed. The refer cannot power up unless the customer bypasses the new control. The shop (at least ours will) will document the failure and the customers refusal or if he just declines to fix. What anyone does later is not the shops concern. Do you actually think we could PREVENT a customer from leaving and requiring he pay over $2000 to fix his refer, before we let it go? Doug

Cloud Dancer

San Antonio and Livingston TX USA

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Posted: 11/27/10 09:39am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

Cloud Dancer wrote:

The reason I went for it (this last recall) is because of the fire issue.
But, I fully understand Norcold's 'business protection' angle. And, I'm sure glad they did it.

I can't help but to feel sorry for the shops, and RV owners, who will become trapped when the RV owner takes it to a shop for diagnosing a shut-down caused by this new thermocouple device. If the RV owner decides they don't want to have it repaired at that shop, is the shop going to protect themselves by not allowing a knowingly dangerous Norcold refrigerator to leave? Is there an assumed liability?


I understand what your question is after reading again. NO, any shop has NO liability if the customer leaves and does not have it fixed. The refer cannot power up unless the customer bypasses the new control. The shop (at least ours will) will document the failure and the customers refusal or if he just declines to fix. What anyone does later is not the shops concern. Do you actually think we could PREVENT a customer from leaving and requiring he pay over $2000 to fix his refer, before we let it go? Doug



Thank you Doug,
Yes, this answers my question. I assume that a customer's signature will be part of the documentation.
There are shops that that have been known to use unscrupulous tactics, therefore I would not be suprised to hear of "hostage taking" along the way (with lawyers involved).


Willie & Betty Sue
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M GO BLUE

Southgate, MI

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Posted: 12/28/10 12:33pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I know my refrigerator is a two-door model but is in a 2008 fifth wheel...according to what I read it is not recalled...correct?




2005 Chevy Silverado 3500 dually CC/LB Duramax/Allison
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LVJ58

Las Vegas, Nevada

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Posted: 12/28/10 03:55pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Why in blazes doesn't both Norcold and Dometic dump the absorption type refrigerator units and build units that would use a dual 110vac and 12vdc compressor.

It would seem that with current technology this could be accomplished. Of course I realize the cost of the unit would be greater. However, I would think it would be worth the extra cost to eliminate the inconvenience in dealing with these problematic absorption cooling systems.

Sheepishly though, I must admit my 10 year old 1200 has been relative trouble free with exception of replacing the rear cooling fans twice and recently the ice maker. Had the 1st recall done, but haven't had the current recall done yet.

Best regards & Happy New Year to all


Jim & Sherry Seward
Las Vegas, NV
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tpharleyguy

So. Calif.

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Posted: 12/28/10 05:24pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Corkey05 wrote:

Doug, thanks for a little more understanding of the problem.

My biggest concern is the fire, and if it was to happen in my coach I would probably be in it and most likely would be asleep when/if it does!

If the unit is to decide to fail, it will, ... I would much rather save whats left of my life, and my coach then worry about the fridge. It would need replacing sooner or later anyway, but I want to be around to do it, and have a coach to put it in.

Adding a temp sensor to shut it down? You bet, I'm all for it. I'll deal with all the other issues later, when and if I need to.



I agree. Have had an RV fire and luckily made it out alive. My wife has MS.


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MrDoneIt65

Golf Country NC

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Posted: 06/01/11 07:44pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

End of the road, or a new beginning? I had the Norcold recalls done. The sensor with the reset worked about a week. Then I had the second recall done and it worked less than 4 hours before the red light came on. No reset. The technician was going to replace the sensor again but found that the coils had blown. I called Norcold and was informed that my refrigerator was out of warranty and they would accept no responsibility for the coils overheating and blowing out. End of the road? No!

I did a google and found the distributor for the Amish replacement coils. The distributor is located in Tennessee and is one of the nicest people I have ever had the pleasure of dealing. He explained the process of replacing the coils and downloaded the complete instructions on line.

The instructions say it is a two man job. I didn't have another man available. I put tape on the steel wheels of my motorcycle hydraulic jack to protect my wood floors, rolled it in front of the refrigerator, went outside and pushed the frig out of the opening enough that I could get a grip on the inside and then pulled it onto the motorcycle lift. I made sure it was balanced on the jack, pulled it into the middle of the kitchen and raised it up until the top of the frig hit the roof which anchored it while I worked on it.

There are four bolts that hold the Norcold coils on the back of the refrigerator and you have to disassemble the propane ignitor chamber. While they are a little heavy, wear gloves to protect your hands, the coils can be lifted off the fridge and thrown away. (The instructions say to send the old coils back to Norcold at your expense. This is a misprint, scrap them)

The Amish coils use double coils to dispence the heat better. The tubing is heavier. And it is painted white. Clean all of the caulking off the back of the area that contacts the freezer and fridge fins. When you remove the cooling fans DO NOT disconnect them from the wiring. You will receive a tube of caulking that is for special use in cooling coil contact. They also send you a can of foam that you can buy at Lowe's. After putting the caulking on the refrig where the coils make contact I would also encourage you to put it on the lower area where the styrofoam contacts the opening just as it was in the Norcold installation. It is impossible to put the foam in that area after the coils have been mounted so this will give you a better seal. You will also get a roll of aluminum tape that is very sticky to seal the gap around the coils.

I would also suggest you check the wiring diagram showing how the cooling fans and heating tubes are connected. My cooling fans didn't work when I put them on the new coils, the wires had been switched in the control box. The heat tube wires were also switched.

Please feel free to e-mail me if I can help you in your new beginning.


'02 Southwind 37U towing '05 Chevy Colorado with Blue Ox tow bar and Brake Buddy. 8100 GM/Workhorse Chassis. Retired UAW-GM.

Gale Hawkins

Murray, KY

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Posted: 06/01/11 08:20pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We have an older Norcold but the Amish option has turned out to be a really "cool" one for us.

DSDP Don

Moorpark, Ca

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Posted: 06/01/11 08:47pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Doug....Thanks for taking the time to answer questions and I know you're getting beat up, but I read this this entire thread and there is an issue that some are concerned about that you don't answer. With so many generations of the little black box (obviously some issues) you make it sound that once the box shuts down the unit, the cooling unit is and has to be replaced. This isn't true with so many black box failures. What some people are mad about is being on a trip and having the black box fail. The trip is lost because of a bad black box, not the cooling unit.

If you're going to come out with a fix, make sure the fix works. I looked at my black box and it basically boils down to a thermal fuse. If the box fails, you can just plug the 12 volt power lead back into the refer and your up and running again.

I know that Norcold will say this is unsafe because the refer could be bad, but many people are on their one vaction a year and they don't want it ruined because of a bad black box. If Norcold is adamant that you shouldn't bypass the black box, then be willing to pay for trip losses if the box is bad vs the cooling unit.


Don & Mary
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dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 06/02/11 06:32am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Diplomat Don wrote:

Doug....Thanks for taking the time to answer questions and I know you're getting beat up, but I read this this entire thread and there is an issue that some are concerned about that you don't answer. With so many generations of the little black box (obviously some issues) you make it sound that once the box shuts down the unit, the cooling unit is and has to be replaced. This isn't true with so many black box failures. What some people are mad about is being on a trip and having the black box fail. The trip is lost because of a bad black box, not the cooling unit.

If you're going to come out with a fix, make sure the fix works. I looked at my black box and it basically boils down to a thermal fuse. If the box fails, you can just plug the 12 volt power lead back into the refer and your up and running again.

I know that Norcold will say this is unsafe because the refer could be bad, but many people are on their one vaction a year and they don't want it ruined because of a bad black box. If Norcold is adamant that you shouldn't bypass the black box, then be willing to pay for trip losses if the box is bad vs the cooling unit.


I NEVER stated that anytime the black box LED comes on you have to replace the CU. But, the ODDS are the CU has failed if the box shuts down and you get the LED. To just tell people to bypass the box because they are on that one trip is irresponsible as YOU or anyone else does NOT have the expertise to check the status of the CU. If you want to do that then post your personal info and IF they then have a catastrophe because YOU told them to bypass, you will pay all damages that occurred. I have had less than 4 failures of the control boxes in hundreds we have done and those were from the first few months on the recall program. I also have seen at least 10 units that the box did its job and shut down due to a leaker and 50% of those showed NO sign until I accessed the burner area, There was no yellow indication on the exterior of the housing. Doug

Gale Hawkins

Murray, KY

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Posted: 06/02/11 09:14am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Folks when you have the Norcold 1200 cooling unit that is known to die not using the black box is very risky as Doug points out.

Personally I would even keep it after replacing the cooling unit the Amish designed 1200 cooling unit if I knew how to defeat it in a couple minutes.

Keep in mind with the 1200 series FIRE more of a concern because of the total wattage used to heat the cooling unit. A dead cooling unit lets this heat build in just one spot.

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