I also have the Morryde but decided to get the IS system (independent) and what a differance, I have a 2004 Everest 5er with rear kithen that was bad on bounce, nothing moves now, Truck rides better and I get better fuel milage due to the fact that the IS system is capable of alignment of the wheels which reduces the drag. Can't say enough about Morryde service, treatment, hospitality was wounderful. We took it right to their plant in Indiana. I would spend the money, I spent about 1300 more than that but worth every dime in my opinion. Habe a great trip.
How much greater is your fuel mileage since you added the IS system to your camper and I'm sure your hand calculating it.
Would appreciate some advice on whether to add the Morryde RE system to our 5th wheel. We have just purchased a used Excel RSO30 with LT tyres and our first trip with it will be from California up to Alaska and back. We know some of the route maybe rough and thought adding the Morryde suspension may help for a smoother ride for the trailer.
Morryde have quoted $750 for the parts and around $250 labour if it only takes 3 hours, could be 4.
We are unable to get them to fit it as they are no exactly on our route, currently asking for a Quote for Henderons lineup in Oregon.
Has anyone had this fitted with a satisfactory outcome, is it worth the extra money ?.
Did any of you ever use Hendersons lineup for any work on their rig ?.
Thanks for your replies.
Julea & Alan
We recently bought our first 5'r. Hauled it home from Chicago to East Central Wisconsin, about 120 miles, and you could feel every construction crack and road split the trailer tires bumped up against in the cab. After getting home I did some heavy forum research on what the heck to do to get rid of the "chucking" and smooth out the ride. Here is what we came up with.
1.) Balance the tires. Got rid of some nasty vibrations in the 60-65mph range that were rattling the plates like crazy.
2.) Replaced the center link of the trailer suspension with Dexter EZ flex. Couple 100 bucks and it includes the wet bolt kit. Definitely a do it yourselfer if you are at all handy with jacks and hand tools.
Took about 10 hours to do it but I also had to fabricate a couple of extension brackets to give me a little more room between tire and wheel well. If your stock brackets are the same center to center to center, yes there are three bolts on that link, then you would not have to do the center plate thing. They made a huge difference in the feel in the truck going over the RR tracks that are a mile from home. Before EZ Flex you could feel each tire going Thump, Thump over the tracks, after, no thump! It also seemed to further smooth out vibration in the trailer and maybe helped the chucking a little, but not enough all by themselves. I would definitely recommend this modification to any pulled vehicle, 5'r or TT.
3. Trail Air Pneumatic Pin Box. Picked it up on E-bay for half the Retail cost and it was brand new still in the factory box! Made a HUGE difference in the chucking, pretty much getting rid most of it, especially the conflict bouncing of the truck going over RR tracks. But there was still a fair amount of front to back movement.
4.) Designed and built a pneumatic sliding hitch to get rid, or at least severely limit the front to back chucking coming from the trailer.
It consists of a roller mounted slide with air bags front and rear to soak up any front to back movement. Before everyone jumps all over me I am a AWS certified welder and a Mechanical Engineer by profession so it is well designed and safe. Also not that I built in a "Catcher" in the heavy wall rear tube that will retain the 5th wheel should it ever come out of the hitch head. The slider gives me 4" of movement, which is just enough to barely clear the cab on flat land by just letting the air out of the rear bag. If I am angling into a uneven site I remove the rear bag and center cross bar with gives me a full 18" of travel and I will, knock on wood, never have to worry about touching the nose! It also provides the added benefit of making the trailer turn a hole lot quicker.
This final modification, in conjunction with all the above really smoothed out the ride in both 5'r and TV.
* This post was
edited 03/18/12 07:57pm by an administrator/moderator *
View edit history
1991 Chevy Western Hauler 454 engine - RV cam, Headers, Dual Flowmasters, K&N 100 Gall Aux Gas tank
2004 29' Crossroads Cruiser 5th wheel
4 Interstate GC Batteries + WM Caps
2 daughters, 1 cat, 1 sofa lounging Pug, 4 peacocks, too many horses & chickens!
The Equa-flex is comparable to Morryde standard suspension. But what I think the OP was asking about is the air ride component that Morryde resplaces the standard rubber flex piece with. That and the plumbing for the air bladders is about $1K and takes three to four hours to put in. I think Morryde is the only one that has this option, I don't see it on Trail air or Dexter's sites.
Life time Good Sam Member
Blog: My RV
5th Wheel Blog
Full timing isn't "always camping". It's a different life style living in an RV.
I've seen that some new trailer will be delivered with the MORryde CRE/3000 equalizers. Does anyone have this series on their rig? If so how do they work? Also can you give me any information on where to purchse them and how much they might cost.
They look more like the Trail Air Equal Flex and then should cost lees than the RE/4000.
I have this system on my 2010 Eagle 29.5RKS. I look forward to hearing everything everyone else has to say about this system as I am considering installing shocks on this fw and am wondering if it is advisable or worth the cost or bother. This is my first fw so I have no basis to make a comparison.
I was just reading a post about Mor/Ryde where and saw pics of the self built/designed hitch. Very nice! My question (which, I believe is answered by the pics) is does the TA pin box do anything for chucking? I'm guessing not or you would've not built your own hitch w/ bags. I'm preparing to add Equaflex to my '10 Eclipse 42' toyhauler, rated at 18k max. I currently have an 02 overbuilt F250 shortbed w/ a B&W goose in it and a Popup 9" extension adaptor. I'm looking to switch systems to something that absorbs shock. I originally was going to build a new box to accept full gooseneck hitches so I can utilize one w/ shock absorbing capabilities. I don't want to spend the $$ on a fifth wheel nor deal with one when not needed, thus why I bought a goose in the first place. after considering the geometry and stress of this vs using a 5th, I'm now reconsidering that design and thinking of ponying up for a 5th and getting one of the several absorbing pin boxes. My top consideration is the Mor/Ryde pin box vs Glide Ride vs Trailair. Which brings me to you, because the TrailAir doesn't appear to relieve chucking much. What about 5thAirborne? One other point is that I have a short bed. I am not going to buy a sliding hitch. I'm told many find they don't need them. With my 9" extra, I can turn a good 80 deg, at least as much as a TT. Really, how tight should I pivot an 18k triple axle anyways? Another complexity is that the B&W Companion is only rated for 18k, not giving any leeway for my load.
What do you all think about puting an extended pin box (Mor/Ryde or other)? What about building an extended one and using a Goose. Going that route I plan to buy either the PopUp one or "The Shocker". I'm concerned about what stresses the extension placed on the front of the trailer where the pin box bolts in. I do not know at this time what my Pin weight is.
Thanks in advance for any help!
2010 Eclipse Stellar F40TXSG in grey (one of only 40!)
2002 F250, 7.3, DP Tuner, 4" exh, S&B Intake
Firestone bags, B&W hitch with B&W fifth wheel adaptor,
Mor-Ryde pin box, Equatrail suspension
We have a 2012 Denali 310re. Odered the MOR/ryde in the deal, but trailer arrived without the MOR/ryde. Took the fith wheel and used it for two months before they could be installed. Before items in the back cabnets where moving around, after they were staying put. Alot less wear and tear on everything in the coach, less repairs later. I Think is is worth the extra cost. Did not have a lot of time on the road. But think it travels better too.
I just wanted to say I decided to add Equa trail Equa Flex to my unit and they made a huge difference! I also put on the wet bolt kit. I did have to use the longer 3 1/8" shackles instead of the 2 1/4" I had due to the different height of the Equa Flex compared to my original equalizers. They were easy to install. I also switched my stock pin box out for a Mor-Ryde unit, which also helped greatly. I called Lippert and asked about putting the longer pin box on. They said it was fine having the long instead of medium length box. I have notice, also, that everything definitely stay put better in the camper.
For the hitch, I installed the B&W fifth wheel adaptor which goes into the B&W hole and has feet that lie on the bed surface. Another RVer elsewhere said he'd tried 4 brands of fifth wheels over 20 years and the B&W was the best by far. I've not tried others, only looked them over. I can say the B&W does seem to be constructed excellently. There is NO slop, NO clunking, no issues at all. It engages positively and stays tight. It's well worth the $500, which also made it cheaper than others out there, though if you consider the $350 for the gooseneck hitch under the bed, it's more in line on price.
* This post was
edited 11/25/12 11:33pm by bradley0128 *