The sticky pad may not reach the fixture in the center but the edges should hold it. I have found that using some fine sandpaper to roughen the plastic a little where the sticky pad does contact the fixture helps it to stick better.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory
mena661 wrote: Whew! Looks like posted the wrong link. I DID buy the correct color. THIS is the one I bought.
Ok, finally got around to installing this. I have one fixture with three 1156 LED's from HERE. The ebay one looks the same in brightness and color as those. And I paid $15 each for those.
mena661 wrote: Whew! Looks like posted the wrong link. I DID buy the correct color. THIS is the one I bought.
Ok, finally got around to installing this. I have one fixture with three 1156 LED's from HERE. The ebay one looks the same in brightness and color as those. And I paid $15 each for those.
I would assume that the cheaper ones do not have the regulator.
Although we have not had many/or any report of failures due to no regulation I do like the regulator built in.
It would be nice if someone would take apart one of the cheap ones and see if they do in fact have a regulator or just resistors.
Guess someone could load up their batteries and get the battery voltage down into the low 12's then remove the load and see if the cheaper led's dim and brighten...The regulated led's do not change brightness with battery voltage.
I have almost all of my lights replaced with the regulator models, I plan on ordering some of the cheap ones for the remaining lights.
If no one has delved into determining the lack or presence of a regulator I will do it.
My solar system will temp adjust, so during bulk mode I do see 15.0 vdc. I would think that would push the non regulated led lights to the limit. Usually these type of leds limit out at about 25milliamps.
Repeated pushing will greatly reduce reliability/life expectancy.
Jim, since you don't say which LEDs you include among the "cheaper ones" its hard to say if they have regulators or not. Usually the regulated ones are listed as 12-30 volts, or some such range. Unregulated ones are listed as a specific voltage, ex 12 volts.
Some work was done, check out this Link by Dave-Sparky.
bigfootford wrote: Guess someone could load up their batteries and get the battery voltage down into the low 12's then remove the load and see if the cheaper led's dim and brighten...The regulated led's do not change brightness with battery voltage. Mena has already agreed to do this. Where ya' been???
Repeated pushing will greatly reduce reliability/life expectancy. That's kind of a bold statement. Are you positive that it will "greatly reduce reliability/life expectancy?" Link, please???
Jim
Cheers,
Kendall
1986 Winnebago Chieftain 22RC
Our Camper (with no payments)
The forward voltage drop in an LED is ~1.2 Volts (varies with temperature).
The light output is a function of the forward current.
The forward current is kept at a safe value by using a "buck regulator" or with a "series resister".
Buck regulators generate RFI; series resistors do not.
There is an integrated circuit called an "LM217" regulator that can be wired as a programmable analog constant current regulator. Because it is an analog device, it generates NO RFI. It will perform quite nicely over the input range of 9 to 37 Volts in this application.
The LM217 can be used as the basis of an LED dimmer.
Paul
Extra Class Ham Radio operator - K9ERG (since 1956)
Retired Electronics Engineer and Antenna Designer
Was a campground host at IBSP (2006-2010) - now retired.
Single - Full-timer
2005 Four Winds 29Q
1982 6.2L Diesel Suburban 1500
I had a MR16 fixture led light that failed. I busted apart the glass casing to determine its failure. Besides the leds the light contained a resistor and a bridge rectifier IC. The rectifiers allow the light fixture to be powered reverse polarity and still work. In my case the resistor was poorly soldered and it came loose. After soldering the resistor back in, the leds worked again.
bigfootford wrote: Guess someone could load up their batteries and get the battery voltage down into the low 12's then remove the load and see if the cheaper led's dim and brighten...The regulated led's do not change brightness with battery voltage. Mena has already agreed to do this. Where ya' been???
Repeated pushing will greatly reduce reliability/life expectancy. That's kind of a bold statement. Are you positive that it will "greatly reduce reliability/life expectancy?" Link, please???
Glad Menna's going to test. Did not catch that fact.
As for excessive current:
Hundreds of links!
http://www.theledlight.com/technical1.html
LED Technical Specifications and Application Notes
Therefore, a light-emitting diode (LED) is ... is characterized by the degradation of LED ... exceeding the maximum current rating will produce excessive heat within the LED ...
Because lattice defects increase with use, the luminous intensity of LEDs gradually declines. The speed of accumulation of lattice defects depends on the magnitude of the forward current.
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