nayther wrote: I had mine back to the factory once, before they closed, and they took one of the sides off and added some sheer panel, according to the service guy. I had not noticed anything and he said it was pretty routine. Since I have no cracks and the cabinets are still in place maybe this was the "fix" I know they peeled most of the driver's side off since the graphics were all new.
Same here, took it to Ragen in 07, The repair consited of:
What we did was.
Removed front filon.
Repaired wood framing under front cap.
Installed a metal “L” bracket at both sides of overhang.
Installed a metal “ L “ bracket along the front of the coach where the floor and front wall come together.
There was some others things done to the front but this is the main parts of the repair.
Craig Brunton
I still have the same problem, just not as bad. After completing my own work inside I think this repair statement was mostly BS IMO.
Going to check it all out myself.
Since we have virtually the same trailer did your cabinets pull away from the wall? I've checked mine a few times and all is good. I distinctly remember him telling me something about shear panel though. And it had to be 2007 since I got mine in Nov. 2006.
nayther wrote: I had mine back to the factory once, before they closed, and they took one of the sides off and added some sheer panel, according to the service guy. I had not noticed anything and he said it was pretty routine. Since I have no cracks and the cabinets are still in place maybe this was the "fix" I know they peeled most of the driver's side off since the graphics were all new.
Same here, took it to Ragen in 07, The repair consited of:
What we did was.
Removed front filon.
Repaired wood framing under front cap.
Installed a metal “L” bracket at both sides of overhang.
Installed a metal “ L “ bracket along the front of the coach where the floor and front wall come together.
There was some others things done to the front but this is the main parts of the repair.
Craig Brunton
I still have the same problem, just not as bad. After completing my own work inside I think this repair statement was mostly BS IMO.
Going to check it all out myself.
Since we have virtually the same trailer did your cabinets pull away from the wall? I've checked mine a few times and all is good. I distinctly remember him telling me something about shear panel though. And it had to be 2007 since I got mine in Nov. 2006.
My end tables still pull away from the wall, less than half what they use to; less than 1/4" rather than nearly 1/2". My rigs production date was Sept 2005.
Any updates to this? 2blueheelers, did you do the "exterior" fix, like the photos you attached?
As for the interior fix, what did you do to fix it.
I just noticed my driver side end table is starting to pull away. Maybe 1/2" at most. The other side is still in tact. I noticed it when the trailer is hitched up and the weight is not on the jacks.
Dawg53 wrote: Any updates to this? 2blueheelers, did you do the "exterior" fix, like the photos you attached?
I thought I would go ahead and update this as I have had a quite a few PM’s and have over 2000 miles on my Rage’n after the ‘fix’.
Basically, I took my Rage’n to professionals (RV Shop) as I don’t have mad welding skills, it turned out to be a good thing too as we discovered water damage as a result of driving in the rain with exposed seams from the flexing pin box requiring new filon cap and related materials.
After removing the filon skin under the bedroom we discovered that when I took my rig to Rage’n in 2007 for a cracked filon cap, they already added the welded tabs support. Actually mine was done with ‘L’ brackets the entire length of the bedroom on both sides:
Shot from below w/ vacuum bonded wall on left edge
So my problem was not the frame moving upwards independently from the sidewalls, the problem was the kingpin box vertical movement verified by measuring the flex when brought off landing gear. It was determined the steel thickness was insufficient for the weight of the rig. First solution was an single 8 foot piece of 2x6x ¼” rectangle tube to span the width of the frame under the bedroom end tables and a 2x2x ¼ square tube on top of the leading edge on top of the kingpin box. Testing showed this helped, but failed to provide the rigidity needed so the entire pin box area was double box framed with ¼” rectangle tube and C channel.
Here are before and after shots. (the before shots courtesy of cobyco)
Before (yes, that is angle iron welded corner to corner from the factory, shameful)
After
Before
After
Result is solid and no measurable flex, no endtable or sidewall movement and a “few” extra pounds added to my pin weight. There is no way of knowing if the boxed in kingpin would have solved the issue w/o the two 8 foot steel segments but I would recommend anyone going this route to reverse the order and box in the kingpin first.
I’m very happy with the results but (obviously) would have been much happier if the problem never happened.
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