Ya we are going to give the 2" drop a shot since we are heading out this weekend and if it isn'y right then we will get on ordering a new 4" drop. Gman one quesiton for you on that math you say that calculation is if there is no sag right? Since the 350 will sag down under it actually rests of the helper springs, it probably almost sags 2" there, so wouldn't then that equal back out to only a 2" drop to keep the ride level?
Interesting observations regarding the stinger math and rear compression.
Gman and myself have identical trailers, and similar trucks (I have a MEGA cab and he has a Quad)
Gman also has taller tires on his Ram then I do. The similarties end there.
We where working through the stinger math, and the differences in rear compression truck to truck was about an inch, even though our trucks are very similar, I run my weight distribution a bit more "proud" then G does and the end result IIRC he had 2.5" at the wheel wells and I had about 1 5/8".
After mathing it all out he ended up with a 4" and I wound up at a 2", both of our setups are dead on the money.
So not all trucks, trailers & set ups are created equal. Take the time to get the stinger height sorted ONCE and enjoy the worry free miles ever after....
well had it out on the road where the the whole unit can sit at level fially and with the 2" stinger it sits almost smack on level both the truck and the trailer. So that is the goal you are looking for correct?
As for cutting up the stinger if it happens to happen, with the right materials and gussets and support it can be made. I understand what you guys are saying and that not your everyday joe should even think about doing something like this, but when you have backgrounnd in structure and strength a project like this really is not that big of a deal. And yes all safety of ourselves and others would be taken into consideration and I would not expect hensley to stand behind or even condone this.
What I'm saying is rear end compression needs to be factored in. Whether it's 0" or 3". Just don't use the rec'vr height at rest as the final number - consider how rear end comp. will lower that rec'vr under trailer load.
And FWIW........I'd be very cautious about modifying a stinger. There are tremendous forces constantly working through that bar. Propride engineers and manufactures adjustible units but also stand behind their design, as does Hensley with their fixed stinger. Do the handyman special on a stinger and have a failure resulting in damge/injury......you'll stand alone at the alter of justice with Hensley washing their hands to you. Sorry.....but for the cost of a stinger, I'd not risk it personally.
2000 Coleman Bayside
2006 Ford Expedition Ltd. 5.4 L/3.73
Gman22 wrote: ... And FWIW........I'd be very cautious about modifying a stinger. There are tremendous forces constantly working through that bar. ...
I will 2nd this statement. Not only are there vertical forces like on a regular shank/hitch head, there are very strong horizontal forces that you do not get in a standard shank/hitch head. Making your own shank or modifying an original one to be adjustable is sure not something I would attempt. There is just too much chance that something would go wrong and the results would certainly not be good!
Ehorn, if you do end up with an extra stinger, I would just put it on Craigslist and it will surely be picked up by someone very quickly.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD Visit our website here
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